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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Mil Surp Bolt Catching In Commercial Receiver


montea6b

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I know what is causing it, and how to fix, just surprised I have never seen it brought up before. Wondering what the consenus fix is...

 

The issue is the guide rib on the bolt body does not completely clear the channel in the rear receiver bridge by the time the spring-loaded plunger in the shroud makes contact. Not a problem with a military receiver since the stripper clip cut-out is there to provide additional clearance. All it takes is a little forward pressure to clear, then the bolt can be locked down. However, if rapid cycling should ever be required I don't think this would be desirable.

 

So, I could file a little off the corner of the inside edge of the last bit of guide rib channel in the receiver, or remove some of the guide rib itself. Or a combination of both, or nothing at all.

 

Thoughts?

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have you tried cycling it with some lapping compound?

 

Real good way to "F" up a receiver. Remove the metal form the bolt guide or the edges of the guide channel on the receiver. The guide rib length on a commercial is shorter. Most often it is not a problem when using a milsurp bolt but there are always exceptions. It will be harder to remove material from the guide rib in a cosmetically pleasing way.

 

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Real good way to "F" up a receiver.

Mike,please explain why this would damage the receiver.I'm not trying to be a wiseass I have seen and heard about your work and hold nothing but 1oo% respect for your craftmanship,I only would like to know since I am very inexperienced in this area and would like to know for the future.I personally have done this a couple times on these receivers and actually I do'nt cycle the bolt but if it just drags a little I put lapping compound on the guide and just push the bolt in and out a few times and it seems to polish the raceway to allow tthe bolt to not drag anymore.

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The issue I have is that it isn't hard to wear channels in the bolt that way. To ensure you keep the raceways straight, use a stone(s). It is hard to control where the lapping compound goes. And, the bolt wobbles. YYou want a smooth straight surface, not a wavy one.

 

However, in this case the technique isn't even relevent due to the amount of material you might have to remove. The commercial rib is about 1/8" shorter. How much needs to be removed? hard to say but more I'm sure than lapping is practically suited to. Hoe that helps.

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