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mimic

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About mimic

  • Birthday 09/09/1973

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    rhmoose55@aol.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.kylesguns.com
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  • Yahoo
    kgibson08@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kansas City Area, Kansas
  • Interests
    In addition to Mil-Surp restoration and sporterizing, I do minor gunsmithing as a hobby, and I compete in Hi-Power, IPSC, and USPSL matches. I grew up loving Colt, Mauser and Winchester, and with as many fancy pistols as I keep buying, I just love my 1911's. As I love to preach "old-school" ways, I enjoy kicking everyone's AR-15's butts in a match with my $90 K-31 Swiss (even though I have 2 AR's myself, both colt's of course)! Most of all, I believe that every gun is meant to be shot, so I have no use for wall decorations that are too pretty to take out in the woods.

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  1. Question fer ya. I have two of those stocks that I bought before Midway ran out. What did you do to finish the stock? Is that oil or some sort of urethane? It looks simply gorgeous, and I would love to figure out how to duplicate your results. Looks like a beautifle stick. I've got my two stocks set aside for my son, one in 7mm with an isreali mauser reciever with the NECC twin-set triggers, and one in .308 with a german reciever. I'm also very interested in the final weight. I'm hoping that I can get it down into the 5 lb range. I deer hunt in Kansas using the stalking method, so I'm wanting a rifle for my son to start hunting with that is light enough to carry all day, and is quick/manueverable in the hedgerows, yet still has the range to reach out to a deer around 100-150 yards. Awsome job, it looks fantastic!!!!!
  2. I believe that the only gunmetal finish to pass the 5000 hour salt water test was Duracoat. I find that it is very easy to apply with an inexpensive airbrush, and it has to be the toughest stuff I've run accross. Chemicle resistant, impervious to moisture, heck I can't even sandblast it off...... hold hard, mimic
  3. wow. Man, I have two mauser stocks laying around and now I just got to try that. That's the best looking military stock I've seen. You should throw a patant on that specific cutout, make a template, and make a little money off of it! As for the historical part, I got the same treatment from one of the "other boards" once, rather rudely. Never looked back. There are plenty of artifacts to save for history, these guns were meant to be carried and shot. And seeing trench warfare is a little out dated, I don't really see a need to keep them in their battle dress configuration. Sporterizing allows us to be artists and pragmtists at the same time. Lets face it, we're not in this for the money. Any one of us could go pick up a great hunting rifle for less then we pour into our sporters, but where would the fun be in that. I love taking a really awsome design and making it better. Guess that's why I'm "mimic" mimic
  4. Shot one of the Gibbs's 45-70's. Kicked like a mother, but that could have been my buddie's handloads. I will admit it was pretty dang accurate. He also had an Enfield converted to 12-ga bolt shotgun, but we had left his shells behind so I didn't get a chance to shoot that one.
  5. I'm putting together a pair of M44 scout rifles to give out to some hunting buddies. I figure between the rifle (cutting down and crowning the barrel BEHIND the bayonet lug), the stock (ATI synthetic), the scout scope mount w/ red dot scope, bending the bolt handle (just because), the whole project will have less than 200 bucks into it. After the standard action clean and polish, I'm just going to duracoat these puppies. They're for hunting whitetails at carbine distances (200 yards and less), so I'm not looking for pinpoint accuracy, just a good enough grouping to kill a deer. What I want to know is have any of you guys played around with accurizing any of the Nagant's? I plan to full legnth bed, using the "2 layers of masking tape" on the bottom half of the barrel to free float. I figure this will only add a few ounces, but hopefully give me a nice stiff forend in the stock. I can do the crown myself, but I haven't really seen any tools that make lapping the lugs easy, much less anything else. Here's a photo I found online that pretty much pinpoints what I'm looking to accomplish. Doubt I'll use the bi-pod, but the rest is nice. http://www.makarov.com/mosmount/M44-03MkII.JPG
  6. mimic

    Oak stock??

    I kind of have to agree with several opinions, summed up like this. As plentiful as Oak is both in Germany and here in the US, I would have to think that (especially in times of both war with its huge demands, and in times of sky high prices), companies like mauser, styer, Remmy and Winny would have all at least introduced oak as either a whole stock, or even as part of a stock if it was feasible to do so. Heck, even during WWII, with all the shortages that both the germans and russians had to deal with, along with the millions of rifles they made, they never used oak. Even as wood ran short, they switched to laminated stocks so they could make them out of the scraps of maple and beech they had laying around. Just my .02 mimic
  7. I'll second that! Just glancing at your pics first, I was guessing polyurethane as well. I've never seen tung oil that glossy. Lota love in that stock, I'll say that much. Wow. mimic
  8. That's a nice looking enfield there. I have a quesiton for you. What attracted you to 30/40 Krag? I've never dealt with the caliber, so I don't know why people like it. I have my pet calibers depending on what I'm doing, heck everybody does. Is it stopping power, accuracy, recoil? I know that historically it was replaced by the .30-03/.30-06, but other than that I don't know much about it. I reload all my rounds, but how about for those that don't. Can you get factory 30/40 Krag loads these days? mimic
  9. Can you narrow it down a bit? What type of rifle are you thinking of? Odds are you can find what you are looking for from either Richards Microfit or Boyd's. They both make normal stocks, but both in the past have been more than happy to leave wood in place for you to do your own custom inletting if you already have the hardware. If you're talking about a mauser 98 (or many large ring varients), and need the hardware, Numrich sells a 3-round drop magazine that fits right into the bottom in place of the floorplate, and that setup will work without modification to any aftermarket stock. mimic
  10. That's one really nice looking stick. I really like the bolt handle.
  11. According to the "manual" I purchased to assist me in filling out my C&R, you're supposed to use the sheriff of the county you live in, even if you live within city limits. Traditionally it's the sheriff’s office that will keep track of such things, and if the ATF ever needed to raid your house, it would be the sheriff's office that they would coordinate with, not a metro PD. Anyway, that's what I did and I had no issues. Just my .02 mimic
  12. Here's a caliber that you guys haven't mentioned yet... .35 Whalen. Got to love anything that lobs it's bullet out and still has a ton of energy at 200 yards, yet doesn't kick more than a .30-06. It fits in the action without any modification, will take any game in N. America (or africa I would imagine), bullets are pretty plentiful for reloaders, but if you don't reload ammo is availible without special ordering it. What's not to love? On the other end of deer hunting, I'm rapidly becoming a fan of 7mm Mauser. About 90 percent of the power of the '06 or 8mm, but with at least a third less recoil. Now that's what's going on my son's first mauser. Nice light rifle that won't make him wince as he learns how to shoot it, but will still take large game out to 300 yards without problems, including elk and moose. just my .02 mimic
  13. I'm sure you will find an online source, but I'll tell you somthing. AGI (American Gunsmithing Institute) sells a video on glass bedding, and in it they bed mausers into both a wooden stock and a synthetic one. There were a LOT of little tips in it that I've never seen anywhere else. The guy teaching in the video is about as dry as sandpaper, so the tape also doubles as a cure for insomnia, but man does he know his stuff. I watched, took some notes, and have been a bedding fool ever since. It's worth a look if you ask me. hold hard, mimic
  14. I know Numrich sells an extractor claw that is left 'long' so you can grind it down to your own case size. I would think this is the way you would want to go for extraction. Now guys help me out here, but I know that I've seen someone that sells stripped bolts that have bolt face designed for the .223, I just can't for the life of me remember where I saw it. Since .243 is based off of a .308 case, they're right, it's a far simpler conversion, but don't let lack of simplicity deter you from trying something unique!!! I also have to agree with Doble Troble, 8mm ammo is really really cheap in turk surplus rounds. Last weekend I saw 70 round bandoliers (including stipper clips) for 2.50! I can't even load the .223 for that cheap. I also have to say that I love his thinking. I can tell you first hand what a 200 grain partition does to a white tail deer at 30 yards, but man would I love to see a prairie puppy go airborne when some of those turk surplus heads hit's em! BTW-Turk surplus is all steel jacketed, so you can have lots of fun plinking! Plink. Plink. mimic
  15. mimic

    Re-Rifling

    One thing that was bugging me about this idea, then I thought of it. The recommended twist rate for the 8mm is 1 in 9, where the recommended rate for the 338 is 1 in 10. Now I'll admit that's not a huge difference, but it could be signifigant if reloads are being used, and it's just enough of a difference that it blows the whole idea of using the existing rifling grooves out of the water. Mimic
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