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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

TOMFIORINOJR

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  1. I am going to call Numrich and discuss purchasing a barrel from them. They list a WWII era reconditioned & reblued used- good bore for $80.30. Or, a replacement 8mm 24" military stepped contour in the white 106.90
  2. I can use the front sight from the existing barrel, but the rear sight has been removed. I need a complete rear sight assembly.
  3. Thank you for the quick responses. The Mauser is marked BYF41 on the top of the receiver, and it has German markings stamped in various places. Therefore I believe it to be a German WWII mauser manufactrued in Oberndorf Germany. I think that is correct! I am looking for a barrel and sights that I can use with this action. I thought the simplest and cheapest way to go about this was to try and get an original barrel in very good condition along with the original sights. That would make it a shooter once again. The barrel that is on the rifle is so corroded internally I could not get it clean. I do not trust shooting the rifle. The rear sights have been removed, but the front sight is still on the barrel. The steps that were on the barrel have been remove. Don't ask me how, but it has been turned or ground down. Numrich has original military barrels with sights selling for approx. $80.00 which they list as in good condition. I'm just not sure what they consider good condition. I don't think I want to risk injury. I guess I could get an aftermarket sporter barrel and have sights installed as an option. If I do that, I would probably make it a 30.06
  4. I have a K98 mauser brought home after WWII. It has been worked on, and many original parts taken off. I want to replace the barrel with another step barrel. I need the complete rear and front sight assemblies. I saw a new in the white barrel on Numrich site for $107.00. But, I cannot fine the sights. Will the sight assemblies slide onto the new barrel? I want to use the rifle with open sights! I need all the help I can get to try and salvage this fine rifle. em
  5. MoDave, I have a stock. I'll have to do some work on it, but it's a Fajen stock that I purchased some time ago for this project. Thanks for the input. Tom F
  6. I agree with you that Z1R is one of the best based on what I have seen and read about his work. I am sure I would be more than pleased with anything he does for me. I have PM'd him and we have discussed the project and cost. As I have discovered there are a few items that needs to be done that I was not aware of, and it drives the cost up. This project is not cheap! Therefore I am rethinking the project, and thinking I will do some of the work myself. Things like bolt alteration will have to be done by someone like z1r. The rebarreling is something I can do, and probably will. If I can get a Shilen barrel in 6.5x55 #3 contour, I'll go with that. It is something I want.
  7. I am interested in hearing form members who are interested in helping me with this conversion. I contacted two gunsmiths in my area and one was not interested in doing the work, and said I should buy a new gun instead. The second gunsmith said he could do the work, and quoted me $200 for the rebarreling, I supply the barrel of course, $200 for the reblueing, and $80 to drill and tap for a scope, but suggested I not go with the 6.5x55. I have no idea if these are reasonable prices for what I want to have done. I know I have to purchase a: barrel $200 - $250, Timnney trigger $50 - $70, Low swing safety $40 - $50, Rebarreling $?, Hot Blueing $?, Alter Bolt $?. Am I missing anything else to complete the project? I need to establish the total cost of the project before moving forward. I also need to know that it will be done correctly the first time. I don't want to have to have the rifle reworked. This happened to me once before and isn't a pleasant experience. TOM F
  8. Ok, I'll purchase the short chambered barrel based on the info provided! I been looking at Brownells website and see they are not carrying the 6.5x55 with the contour #3 which I prefer. I think Midway USA has it available, but I'll have to check with them. 6.5x55 or .270, 6.5x55 or .270, 6.5x55 or .270, 6.5x55 or .270? The debate continues, I can't make up my mind. Maybe, I'll purchase a CZ 550FS in 6.5x55 and use the k98 action and build a .270. I checked the availability of the CZ 550FS in 6.5x55, and it is a special order. Not a problem, 6 to 8 weeks maybe! My mauser has the bent bolt. Will I have to get the bolt handle modified, or will it operate with a scope mounted? I don't want to use high rings to mount the scope. It throughs the appearance off, and is an uncomfortable shooting position for me. I'm also not clear weather or not the safety will have to be changed out also. I've seen low mount safeties available at Brownells and Midway USA. Can someone advise me as to what modifications will have to be made, i.e. bolt handle, safety etc.? I intend to use this rifle for hunting and punching paper. In fact all of my rifles are used for hunting and target. I use to hunt/target all the time but stopped for awhile. Now I'm cranking back up, and started with my handguns. Recently purchased a Colt XSE .45. Rifles purchased, CZ 22 hornet, CZ .223. I'll purchase a few more handguns and rifles in the near future, but want to finish the K98 project first. TomF
  9. I did not give consideration to the possibility of loading the round a bit hotter due the fact that it is a k98 action. This adds another demension to the round. I found the following data on reloading: Speer 120 gr bullet, 49 gr IMR 4531 powder 2886 mv - 140 gr bullet, 48gr RL22 powder 2671 mv. How can I develop a safe load (loading it hotter) for this round? What sort of ballistics can I achieve?
  10. I think I'll keep the cost of the project down by going with the 6.5x55 Swede or tthe .270 Win. There may be a .300 Win or .338 Win in the future. I have .22 cal, .22 hornet, .223. Then I step up to the .243 and .30-06. I want to fill in between the .243 and .30-06. Afterwards I'll consider the .300 Win, .338 Win, or .358 Win. Tom F
  11. I decided to have a gunsmith do the work for me as well. It's too much for me to handle, and know that it was done correctly as well as safely. I'm torn between the 6.5x55 Swede and the .270 Win. The availability of ammo is the issue. TOM F.
  12. I purchased JERRY KUHNHAUSEN MAUSER MANUAL and read through it. The rebarreling is more than I have confidence in doing myself . I don't plan on rebarreling another rifle, Ijust want to finish what I started with this one, but who knows, anything can happen. I feel that it is best to have a compentent gunsmith handle this for me at this time. I have cleaned the receiver group, and bolt throughly. I took it down to white metal, degreased everything, and reblued the receiver and bolt. It turned out great, for cold blueing. All metal surfaces were buffed and polished using a Dremel and rouge. Metal components looked like chrome when finished. I checked the Brownells web site and they have Shilen fitted barrels for large ring 98 mausers in various calibers for $238. I also checked Sporters Express and they have Lothar Walther barrels also for 98 mausers. The Shilen barrels are threaded, short chambered, and will need to finish reaming the chamber and set the head space. The Lothar Walther barrels is long chambered and threaded for the 98 mauser. They will have to set back the shoulders and breach face. I will check with the gunsmith to get advice as to which barrel mfg. to use. Once I work out the details of the work to be done with the gunsmith, I'll order the barrel. As for caliber I am struggling with choosing between the 6.5x55 Swede and the .270 Win. I'm sure I will be happy with either one. There is plenty of ammo available for the .270 Win but not that much available for the 6.5x55 Swede, which leads me to lean towards the .270 Win. Let's take a vote: 6.5x55 Swede or .270 Win! Thanks to all for your input in helping me reach a decision. TOM F
  13. I do not have use for the magnums, though it would be nice to own one. I've always wanted a .338. However, I've been considering the .25-06, the 6.5x55 Swede, as well as the .270. One concern is with feed issues. I thought the .270 would be less on a feed issue or are all three calibers close enough in length as not not pose a feed problem? I've read alot on the forums about the potential of the 6.5x55 Swede, mild recoil - very close to the the .270 and is what I was considering as the caliber of choice. I have decided to have a gunsmith do the rebarreling, hot blueing, and drill and tap for a scope rather than trying to take on the job myself. By the time I purchase all the tools/equipment required to do the job properly I can pay to have a professional job done. $200 for the rebarreling, $200 for the hot blueing, and $85 for the drill and tap for scope mounts. When all is said and done with this project I know I could purchase a new rifle for about what this is going to cost me, but I have the desire to finish the K98.
  14. I have a K98 mauser brought back from WWII. Markings on large ring are byf 41 and, serial nos. 4168 are the same on trigger guard, floor plate, and large ring. SN's on bolt and barrel are different. Back in mid sixties I decided to sporterize the rifle. I did not understand what a prize I had, and wish I had not tampered with it. I had a house fire and all the original parts were lost. The barreled action was not in the fire. Now 40 years later I've dediced to finish what I started. I want to replace the barrel due to corrosion and wear on the original barrel. I was considering .270 but would like your recommendations. I have a .243 and a 30-06. The other considerations were the 300 WM or 338 mag.
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