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8uck5nort

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About 8uck5nort

  • Birthday 02/14/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NW Indiana
  • Interests
    Hunting (bow, blackpowder, rifle), Fishing, and now fixing up old war horses for a new life.

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  1. It was converted to 7.62 Nato and had a hinged trigger guard so that made my mind up to do a classic deer cartridge. The rifle was in pretty rough shape when I bought it at the gun show. The saftey still does not move from the fire position. Got it cheap tho. I have removed the old barrel, and removed the charging hump. I got the barrel from Rhineland Arms and has the Savage style lock collar so we will see what I can do with that. I am probably going to add open sights as well as scope. I am also going to do a wisner style swing saftey and convert to cock on open with a Dayton Traister speed lock kit. I have not decided if I am going to do a custom carved stock yet or buy one form Richards Microfit. Anyway here is some progress pics. Oh and I ma going to make my own Go No-Go guages to seat the barrel. I downloaded the specs from SAAMI site so I should be able to figure it out with some youtube, patience and trig...
  2. Silver soldered the pin in place and cleaned up. Seated and trimmed and grounded pin tip.
  3. Then I performed the operation on my broken firing pin. Worked like a charm.
  4. Fixed! Why did I wait sooo long to get a lathe? OK, so I managed to learn a little machining and was able to fix my broken firing pin. I am also including some progress pics on my project. Here is my proof of concept after learning to select a cutter, and face, and reduce OD, and drill on center...
  5. Well. I am in for the pound of flesh now. I used my 25% Labor Day only coupon at Harbor Freight and bought a 7x10 mini lathe with cutters and a M#2 taper jacobs chuck to do this right. I had a friend go with me who works at Cat who has machine shop lathe experience to help and steer me in the right direction on a basic set up. This pretty much blew my remaining budget for the rest of year, but now I have the means to do a lot more on future projects. Yes it would have been cheaper to buy a 100 dollar replacement bolt and keep going. In fact I could have bought several of them, but I decided to take the long view on this. Now I need to clean up the lathe and start learning on some scrap metal and get the basics down. Wish me luck.
  6. OK. After sleeping on it and doing a lot more digging on machinist and other "gunsmith" forums I think I came up with a repair idea. I think it is worth a try. Since there is no available source of repro or used firing pins then repairing the old one may be essential. This will serve two purposes. One it may flat out resolve my issue with part that is now unserviceable. Two, it may return the part for use as a testing piece keeping my expensive replacement reserved for actual use. It may also serve as a model to send out to a machine shop to create a repro part using modern steels. Either way I really have nothing to loose. OK here is the actual idea. The firing pin body is in excellent shape. The pin broke off right at the point it finishes tapering to the final diameter required to fit through the firing pin hole. So I could file the break lightly or machine (preferably) flat. Find center. Drill a hole and insert an appropriate steel shank that is the same diameter as the old firing pin. Grind and shape to appropriate length and tip shape. Then silver solder pin in place. Now that I look at it replacing the broken firing pin from a point further back on the pin body may be even better and frankly easier since there is more meat to work with. Plus the replacement pin will be easier to machine since it is a basic shape. The concept is kinda like replacing a broken or bent decapping pin in a set of reloading dies except you are using a high strength solder to affix permanently in place. If it should ever break again heat, remove and replace. What do you think? Am I way off on this or onto something? It really seems like my only option. Even with a new repro pin with all the variations you may be required to do minor fitting to get them to work. Necessity is the mother of invention.
  7. Can a swede firing pin be modified to work on a Spanish M93? There is a lot of those available.
  8. Well I am out of ideas short of buying a whole new bolt assembly to get at a replacement firing pin. I am currenlty building out a 35 Remington on a M93 mauser action a 1923 Oviedo. Just got done removing the charging hump and was polishing the bolt shroud. I decide to re-assembling the bolt to marvel at my work and "snap" I busted the firing pin off. It did not take much, but no matter it is still broken. Do you all know of a source for a replacement or even better yet a reproduction new one? I found whole new bolts, but that is going to set me back 3 times what a used or repro firing pin would cost.
  9. Great looking rifle. I have shot a 416 Rigby which packs a punch, so I imagine the 375 Ruger is about the same. Is this your go to grizzly rifle?
  10. I actually called Ed Lapour yesterday. I found his site while digging around trying to find anyone who still currently makes three or two postion safetys for the M96. It was indeed pricey, and if I had the money would do it in a heart beat and not look back. Definitely worth it. Fact would be I would have more in the COO and safety than in the rest of the rifle combined. Wisner used to make a wing 2 stage safety kit # 170k for the M96, but I exhausted all my sources trying to find one. You can still find em for the 98, but not the 96. I guess I wll have to go the boyds/timney w/ safety route, which is not a bad thing, just not what I really wanted. I have also decided to just operate the rifle in it's original COC and just deal with it. I will slick the bolt up and polish rails to make it easier to cycle. Only question remaining now is what to do with the safety. Cut it off and permantley weld in the fire position or just leave it alone? I am beginning to think just leave it alone since this rifle has iron sites. Might have my eyes shined up by a laser and get my 20/20 back on day...
  11. I have a M96 Swede. It has nice thin profile sporter barrel in 8x57js with machined front site,missing the site hood, and barrel swivel stud. I plan on shooting only US commercial or handloaded ammo and most likely will stay with 150 to 170 gr bullets with occasional 200 gr use. I am not looking to hotrod any of the loads. Bolt has been turned down and it has been D/T with scope bases already installed for proper scope mounting. So half the work is already done when I got it. 1. I would like it to cock on open. I am not used to the cock on close. Maybe, I just need to shoot it more and save myself the trouble that makes option 2 and 3 easy. Anyway if I do go this route I plan on using the Dayton Traister (DT) cock on close to cock on open kit. Anyone used this before? Pros, Cons? 2. I will be replacing the trigger. I initially planned on using a Timney or Bold w/ side saftey. a. However, If I convert it to cock on open will the after market Timney or Bold still work? if not I have plan b. b. I have seen the DT coc to coo kits that come with a trigger, but that means getting a low scope saftey which points to #3. 3. Rework the bolt shroud for a cleaner look. a. I really, really, really want a winchester style saftey, but I think that this is still beyond my current tool skill set, so that is why I decided to first try a timney or bold granting it will work with #1. b. If the Timney or Bold does not work with #1 and I have to go with 2.b. and I can't get a pre-bought shroud for a M96 with three postion saftey then I would probably install a buehler 2 postion. c. Now if I can use a timney or bold side safety how to then deal with the bolt shroud? Can you convert a M98 bolt shroud, which I have a spare, for use on a M96? Or just buy a commercial "no saftey" shroud for a M96, if they still make one and I can find it? d. If a M98 bolt shroud can converted they sell pre-assembled three postion M70 style saftey/shrouds can that be modified to work with my M96 or do they make them for a M96 which solves all my issues, well not "all" my issues, well, you get the picture. To all of those who have gone before what say you? 4. Boyds Featherwieght thumbhole stock in nutmeg laminate that will be pillar and action bedded. This should turn out to be a nice light and quick handling hunting rifle for deer sized game.
  12. Well just when I thought I had done pretty good this year with my buck my youngest son and I went out the following saturday and out of the same stand almost in the same spot my son took this real nice bruiser with my custom 357 maximum in a Handi rifle I built a while back. 180 gr Hornady SSP over a dose of H110 sealed this guys fate with a perfect 20 yard heart shot. The 8 pt rack from my buck fit inside this guys span. My wife and I are having a head mount done for his Christmas and B-day this year.10 pointer. 168 lb field dressed at check in. Estimated live weight was about 210 lbs. This is a solid 130 class buck pushing 140. Very nice.
  13. There it is again!!! I would take that as a sign. Yes, yes I would.
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