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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

carzngunz

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  1. Hi Tony, DC is definately the way to go.If you get the AC/DC you can get a tig dry torch setup for around $100 and a bottle of argon and you can tig weld bolt handles and such. You will not have the high frequency so nonferrous metals are out but it is still very useful and well worth the investment. A lot of times you can find these setups at used tool outlets as they are common industrial maintenance setups.
  2. I never believe anything unless I see it on TV!
  3. Also needed for Mas 49/56, If you reload for one.
  4. That's a great idea! I like the way the letters show up.
  5. Walnut, Make sure to post your question for the guys here on this site. There are some very knowledgable car people here!
  6. Great looking rifle! I really like those floorplate releases, to the point of making several myself.
  7. I vote with z1r. I prefer the Timney Sportsman over the Bold and many others that I have tried. I have recently aquired a Timney Featherweight for a tactical/target rifle that I am just getting started on. I have a couple of these and like them very much. I have used several of the Bold triggers but I like the Timney better. It may just be in my head but I would spend the extra couple of dollars for the Timney. I would probably save my money on the more expensive triggers to buy other parts!
  8. I am going to go out on a limb here and offer an opinion on something that I didn't actually witness. It SOUNDS to me like the areas that were spot annealed were allowed to cool too rapidly. After being heated they need to cool very, very slowly. Just removing the heat source and allowing it to sit may be allowing the area to remain in a hardened state. The cross sections where the holes are located are thin. The few times that I have had to do this I just used the torch and kept the heat on and gradually backed it off. This can be tricky if you are not careful and have a good bit of experience with a torch. Something else that may work a little easier and more controlled is to fill a metal coffee can with dry sand, heat it in the oven to about 350 deg. or so and get the sand thoroughly heated. Heat your receiver spots and immediately bury your receiver in the sand. Let it cool until the sand is cool to the touch. Having said this I will also say that I have never even seen a Siamese mauser action. I have had to spot anneal a few holes in other mauser actions and I think either method will work well for you. I also have a drill that I bought to drill out a broken high speed steel, 6-48, tap. It is tiny. It cost over $20. I looks like it would break if you dropped it on the floor. It drilled through the tap like it was made of butter. I was amazed to say the least. I bought it from Travers Tool Co. but that is all I can remember about it. Just be careful, earlier someone posted that he used only carbon steel taps for easier removal in case it breaks. Someone else suggested using a carbide tap. These are extreme opposites in the hardness and brittleness areas. When you break that carbide tap off in the receiver thing are going downhill fast. There are only a few ways to get it out and you ain't gonna like none of them. Be careful and good luck!
  9. Nice job! Great looking rifle.
  10. Nice job on the handles! Keep at it with the files. You will be amazed at what you can do with hand tools and a lot of practice!
  11. The only 243 that I have done was modified just as Z1R suggested. After opening the rails a little it fed fairly well. I found that my extractor was too tight against the cartridge and was causing some problems. After reducing the extractor tension it fed like it was made for it.
  12. Excellent job weaver77! This is much appreciated. I have one of those stocks that I am getting ready to start on. This is very helpful.
  13. I used to remember a real easy one for cutting speeds too but my memory lets me down sometimes! I've got some notes somewhere but I probably couldn't find those either.
  14. An easy formula to remember is: Tap drill size = O.D. (of bolt) - pitch (of threads) Pitch = 1/ threads per inch This gives a decimal size drill. An example would be 3/8-16. 3/8 - 1/16= 5/16 or 0.3125 1/4-20 would be 0.250" - (1/20) or 0.050"= 0.200" a #7 drill is 0.201" This gives a good fit and easy to remember, works for metric also.
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