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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Barrel Removal & Refitting


rustvyper

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Well this afternoon I'm going to remove the yugo barrel. You guys have convinced me to take on the rebarreling myself. I'm ordering a barrel from Brownells right now, though I doubt I'll be able to work on it until I get back from iraq. But until then, I'm going to remove the old barrel & get the action scrubbed down to the white & drilled & tapped.

Questions about refitting the barrel. How tight do you need to have it & do you guys add anything to keep it tight? Also, I'm building this rifle for a buddy & since I had to change the barrel anyway, I let him choose his new caliber. He chose 308. I took some of my 308 rounds out this morning & tried to feed it through another 24/47 I have. It seems like it'll feed like a dream, the only hang up right now it seems the rim on the 308 is a few microns thicker than the 8mm mauser so it hangs up when sliding into the claw. I assume heating & opening the claw just a tad will cure this? Thanks for all the help guys. Pictures will be forth-coming in the summer when the project gets completed!

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I wouldn't heat anything that you don't need to.

 

A light stoning and polishing may do the trick. The .308 has a body with much less taper than the 8MMX57. Are you sure that the .308 rim is too thick? Have you compared to two cases in the boltface with the bolt removed from the action?

 

I'm suspecting that the different case geometry is causing the .308 to rise at an odd angle when it hits the feed ramp.

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I cinch the barrel down as tight as I can get it by leaning on the handle of the action wrench without a cheater. You don't need any locking compound; on the contrary, you need some grease to insure that the threads don't gall. Wheel bearing grease will work fine as will just about any high pressure grease.

 

It is sometimes necessary to relieve the bottom corner of the extractor.

 

Clemson

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