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20 Ga Barrel Sleeved To Fit 98 Action


bubbamauser

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I have a low pressure plan to salvage an old action I have floating around but I have some questions:

Would the steel used for a 20ga barrel sleeve need to be anything special?

I have been practicing turning down 3/4 plumbing pipe to mauser threads so I have a lot of pieces floating around

Bold face is already flat I had played with this idea a while back.

I know there was some overhang of the rim it was minimal(I grabed all the parts from storage and forgot the shells so I don't have the measurment)

Any ideas on a jig to hold the action to open up the inner ring and lug area (I am thinking 2" plumbing pipe with the action centered in it and attached with screws through the pipe so it can be shimmed center and then mounted in a 4 jaw)

I don't have an idea of what it will need to be opened up to again because I forgot the shells but I remeber it was a minor amount and from all I have read the 12ga GEHA only uses the 3rd lug to lock up with so it should be safe

also 20ga slugs are about 12k psi

 

let me hear your ideas

 

Thanks,

 

Roy

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For the cost of a 20 guage barrel I think it would be cheap insurance as opposed to using plumbing pipe.

 

although 12 kpsi seems like low pressure compared to some of the steam boiler systems used on old Navy ships.

 

Jimro

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the one I'm using is an old mossberg with the screw type ACCU choke and ports cut in eitherside of the barrel(I don't even Know what model its from but it looks cool) it was an Gunshow junk box find for about $10 I got about a year or 2 ago. Threads are veryfine and very shallow I was thinking of turning it to fit insde the sleeve an then silver soldering in place.

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I've thought of doing the same thing with commercial rifle barrels.

 

Your plan to add a "shank" to the barrel you have is sound. Regular old pipe steel is a little soft for my liking but I can see no reason why it wouldn't be safe, the receiver ring would be the ultimate stress bearer from any outward expansion during firing, and the bolt would take any rearward thrust.

 

I wish I had the CAD software to actually map out the forces.

 

Jimro

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I would avoid using plain steel pipe.

It has a welded seam that tends to open during an explosion.

I made a couple of small black powder cannons in my younger days with disasterous results.

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I have put 410 shotgun barrels on Japanese T99's and Steyr 95M and used the original barrel for the bushing. Would the 20 gauge barrel not be large enough to thread to the 98 receiver, if not why not use the 98 barrel shak as a bushing. riceone.

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Jimro, if you give the bushing idea a try for commercial barrels let me know how you do it and what barrels are most appropriate Rugers?.

 

Z1R, this was the first yugo action I tried to rebarrel a few years ago barrel wouldn't budge so I cut off barrel and ground out the threads removing some of the action threads in the process.

 

Kenak2, It is seamed that was the hardest area to turn smooth on the inside so Dom might be the safe bet or barrel stub as below

 

Riceone, the barrel is slightly undersize in O.D. I thought about using a barrel to make the bushing out of but I have used the only one I have in large ring for practicing contouring a barrel in the lathe and it came out too good to butcher :o , but I guess I can just start over on my next projects barrrel when i get it.

 

Roy

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Then why not just make a bushing to screw into the 98 action and then turn the barrel to a diameter that will fit in the reamed bushing leaving both with adequate wall thickness for safety. I did one this way and held the barrel in t he bushing with a set screw right in the bottom - did it this way so I could slide the barrel in and out the bushing to head space it. I took the powder and shot out of cases and just used the primed case to set the head space with. When I got done I drilled two 3/8" holes through the bushing and just into the barrel and then welded from the inside out. This will work for a shotgun but not a rifle. riceone.

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