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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

MR1

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  1. Paul, Have you had any luck finding an 88 stock/ getting it repaired? Where are you located in AK? I think acraglas repair would work. mr
  2. An update, I have worked out the forming process and I have test fired 10 or so rounds, not bad for 2 years. Rounded up 375 H&H die and shortened it to start the necking down, then into 35 Rem with a locking ring to raise it up some, a 8x57 trim die to neck more and cut extra length off and 303FL then trim & chamfer, then on to neck turning. It has test fired fine, I have found PRIVI brass that measures better than US stuff, I had some HXP that was the same size as US stuff, but found 50 primed HXP cases that were about .455" that I'll try out. I like the thicker rim on the 405 brass, can make up for sloppy headspace.
  3. Been there done that, how much 303 shooting/reloading experience do you guys have? Or are we just repeating what we have read on the internet. I have used neck sizers and Lee collet dies and still have seperation after 1 reload, so if I can get 2 or 3 reloads I will be happy.
  4. That's what the salesman at the gun shop suggested. The 303 brass and ammo you buy doesn't measure what the loading manuals say it should, ie .455 at the base, it is closer to .450, the Hornady 405 Win is closer to .457. I think the 303 British gets a bad rap on headspace and rear lockup, when I believe the large chamber is the culprit. The case swells at the junction of sidewall and the solid head and the size die sizes it back and they seperate quickly, looks just like an excessive headspace problem. Heck they didn't care how long the cases lasted once was enough.
  5. I was looking at my Lyman manual and compared 405 Win brass to 303 and decided to get some Hornady 405 and made up some 303s. I have 2 with generous chambers, and I think these will work to give good fitting brass. mr1
  6. I got the idea from 303british.com, but when I setup the angle and weaver base, it was just as high as my no drill S&K mount. I started with a Bubba'd rifle, it looks like someone tried to drill for the weaver base and stopped after they messed up the rear hole attempt, the receiver ring was not touched. I removed the clip charging guide leaving part of it to act as a support against recoil. I mounted the angle, then setup in Forster jig and drilled the holes for the dovetails, the used a modified 5/8 drill to cut the dovetail holes. I used drill press and a milling attachment on my lathe to do the machine work. mr
  7. I guess I should have posted this pic instead. I don't think you can go very low with the charging clip guide in place, no matter what mounts you use, side or top mounts. mr
  8. Here is a mount that I made to fit my desires, it was already bubba"d when I started. mr
  9. I don't use heat paste, I run water through the bolt and heat sink, the cocking cam doesn't even change color when TIG welding.
  10. I looked at a MK4T minus scope and rings, I looked for rings&scope. I only found replica rings and they were $200 custom made, dropped the idea. I'm sure the stuff can be found, it just takes looking. mr
  11. Thanks, what do you think of them? I got one, installed it and was adjusting like the instructions said, was putting the stock on and the little ball fell out on the garage floor, couldn't find anthything close. About a week later I found the ball on the floor, should of bought lottery tickets. The pull is sorta long, I will have to work out the adjustments after I try shooting it. mr
  12. Has anyone tried out the HUBER CONCEPTS SMLE & No4 aftermarket trigger? That Brownells sells. TIA mr
  13. MR1

    Metal lathes

    Go at least 10"X24" and v bed ways, I've got a 13"X36" JET and am happy with it. mr
  14. My S&K has base for Weaver rings, I use it for testing w/o permanent modification. I didn't see the Control type in burgie's post above.
  15. [attachmentid=14]Here is one that I made, bought a couple first, but they were too high for me. mr p.s. right click on attachment and choose "open link"
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