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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

K98 Action


TOMFIORINOJR

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Here's one load of many listed at Ammoguide, of which I'm a member. There are a couple with even higher vel. listed with 120gr.

130's @ 2800+

140's @ 2700+

 

 

120 Nosler Accurate AA-3100 6.5x55 Swede

 

Charge VEL Energy BL

50.0gr 2970 2351 24.0"

 

 

 

This load was developed using Nosler pointed, soft-point, boat-tailed bullets.

The velocity measurement is by chronograph.

Norma cases and Federal 210 primers were used in development

 

 

Spiris

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Ok, I'll purchase the short chambered barrel based on the info provided! I been looking at Brownells website and see they are not carrying the 6.5x55 with the contour #3 which I prefer. I think Midway USA has it available, but I'll have to check with them. 6.5x55 or .270, 6.5x55 or .270, 6.5x55 or .270, 6.5x55 or .270? The debate continues, I can't make up my mind.

Maybe, I'll purchase a CZ 550FS in 6.5x55 and use the k98 action and build a .270. I checked the availability of the CZ 550FS in 6.5x55, and it is a special order. Not a problem, 6 to 8 weeks maybe!

 

My mauser has the bent bolt. Will I have to get the bolt handle modified, or will it operate with a scope mounted? I don't want to use high rings to mount the scope. It throughs the appearance off, and is an uncomfortable shooting position for me. I'm also not clear weather or not the safety will have to be changed out also. I've seen low mount safeties available at Brownells and Midway USA. Can someone advise me as to what modifications will have to be made, i.e. bolt handle, safety etc.?

 

I intend to use this rifle for hunting and punching paper. In fact all of my rifles are used for hunting and target. I use to hunt/target all the time but stopped for awhile. Now I'm cranking back up, and started with my handguns. Recently purchased a Colt XSE .45. Rifles purchased, CZ 22 hornet, CZ .223. I'll purchase a few more handguns and rifles in the near future, but want to finish the K98 project first.

 

TomF

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TOM F, you will have to have your bolt altered for proper clearance for scope mounting. Some on this site do that, and do it well. Some new commercial bolt bodies are available on Gunbroker, another option. A new trigger is important, several available, some with and without side safeties. There are many options to make the rifle the way you want it. You already know about Sporter Express for ideas so we await your decision. The conversion will not be cheap, but will be very satisfying knowing that you have resurrected a classic design.

 

Spiris

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TOM F, you will have to have your bolt altered for proper clearance for scope mounting. Some on this site do that, and do it well. Some new commercial bolt bodies are available on Gunbroker, another option. A new trigger is important, several available, some with and without side safeties. There are many options to make the rifle the way you want it. You already know about Sporter Express for ideas so we await your decision. The conversion will not be cheap, but will be very satisfying knowing that you have resurrected a classic design.

 

Spiris

I am interested in hearing form members who are interested in helping me with this conversion.

I contacted two gunsmiths in my area and one was not interested in doing the work, and said I should buy a new gun instead. The second gunsmith said he could do the work, and quoted me $200 for the rebarreling, I supply the barrel of course, $200 for the reblueing, and $80 to drill and tap for a scope, but suggested I not go with the 6.5x55.

I have no idea if these are reasonable prices for what I want to have done.

I know I have to purchase a: barrel $200 - $250, Timnney trigger $50 - $70, Low swing safety $40 - $50, Rebarreling $?, Hot Blueing $?, Alter Bolt $?. Am I missing anything else to complete the project? I need to establish the total cost of the project before moving forward. I also need to know that it will be done correctly the first time. I don't want to have to have the rifle reworked. This happened to me once before and isn't a pleasant experience.

 

TOM F

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Tom, drop me a PM and we can discuss your project.

 

I've done lots of 6.5x55's on Mauser actions, they go together like bread and butter.

 

 

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Tom F, I would recommend z1r for your project, he currently is working on one for me and he has been great to work with. He is building me a 6.5x55 sweede on a small ring Mexican 98. He has a thread on most of the work he has done on this site if you want to see what he has done.

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I'm torn between the 6.5x55 Swede and the .270 Win. The availability of ammo is the issue.

 

TOM F.

 

If the availability of ammo is the issue 270 is a good choice. Chances are pretty good any dealer stocking rifle ammo will have 270 on the shelf. Not so good of finding 6.5 Sweede in a mom and pop operation but with the internet there is plenty of 6.5 Sweede ammo available if you don't mind paying shipping.

 

When I first started reading about guns and hunting back in the late 60's, following Jack O'Connor's articles the 270 was king. O'Connor had such a following any manufacture would have sold their souls the have him field test their rifle and write about it in his monthly column but he was satisfied with his 270. Been to many years to recall specifics but he carried his 270 into Africa. Although he did use a larger caliber on large and dangerous game, he had allot of success in Africa with his 270. If you have any doubt about 270 being a good choice read any of O'Connor's books.

 

My only gripe about the 270 is the selection of bullets for the reloader. Since O'Connor's death 270 sales have declined and the bullet selection is tightening up.

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Tom,

 

I'll second the recommendation to work with Z on this.

 

But its clear from your posts that you understand a lot of what you're trying to do. I dare say MORE than many "gunsmiths". I found this site after having become frustrated at having real "gunsmiths" only make problems worse. Now I'm the offender, and occaisionally I manage to get things right.

 

Don't send your work to just anyone. Trust me, you can do it better than most. Find someone you can trust. Z1R is one of those people. I suggest that you are too. Start working on your own capability, maybe for your next project. Z and everyone here will help you.

 

It's important for America that we renew our status as a country that really "can do" things ourselves.

 

This notion of a "service" economy is CRAP. We need to be a nation of DOERS.

 

PS the 6.5 x 55 is your best choice (if you don't decide on a 338-06 or 35 Whelen, actually your 30-06 is all you really need anyway, so the obvious choice is 6.5 x 55).

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TOM F, I did not want to talk out of turn here and offer someone to do the job for you without you asking about it. z1r is often busy and he needed to offer his services. Now that he has, I'll say that you cannot get any gunsmith who cares more about his profession than Mike. He treats every project as his own and samples of his work are available for viewing here at this site. Heed his advice because he will not bullshi$ you. You will be glad you did.

I personally have learned enough to fabricate some of my own rifles from the advice that was freely given here. For that I am grateful.

 

Spiris

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Tom,

 

I'll second the recommendation to work with Z on this.

 

But its clear from your posts that you understand a lot of what you're trying to do. I dare say MORE than many "gunsmiths". I found this site after having become frustrated at having real "gunsmiths" only make problems worse. Now I'm the offender, and occaisionally I manage to get things right.

 

Don't send your work to just anyone. Trust me, you can do it better than most. Find someone you can trust. Z1R is one of those people. I suggest that you are too. Start working on your own capability, maybe for your next project. Z and everyone here will help you.

 

It's important for America that we renew our status as a country that really "can do" things ourselves.

 

This notion of a "service" economy is CRAP. We need to be a nation of DOERS.

 

PS the 6.5 x 55 is your best choice (if you don't decide on a 338-06 or 35 Whelen, actually your 30-06 is all you really need anyway, so the obvious choice is 6.5 x 55).

 

I agree with you that Z1R is one of the best based on what I have seen and read about his work. I am sure I would be more than pleased with anything he does for me. I have PM'd him and we have discussed the project and cost. As I have discovered there are a few items that needs to be done that I was not aware of, and it drives the cost up. This project is not cheap! Therefore I am rethinking the project, and thinking I will do some of the work myself. Things like bolt alteration will have to be done by someone like z1r. The rebarreling is something I can do, and probably will. If I can get a Shilen barrel in 6.5x55 #3 contour, I'll go with that. It is something I want.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tom I did this same thing a while back. You mentioned toting up the overall cost of project but I didn't read anything about stock, sling, swivels and recoil pad. So this really adds to overall cost when considering synthetic or some purty wood. I would also offer thinking about 7mm08 for your in between caliber or maybe 264 win espically if bolt or magazine alterations crop up.

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Tom I did this same thing a while back. You mentioned toting up the overall cost of project but I didn't read anything about stock, sling, swivels and recoil pad. So this really adds to overall cost when considering synthetic or some purty wood. I would also offer thinking about 7mm08 for your in between caliber or maybe 264 win espically if bolt or magazine alterations crop up.

 

MoDave,

 

I have a stock. I'll have to do some work on it, but it's a Fajen stock that I purchased some time ago for this project. Thanks for the input.

 

Tom F

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  • 2 months later...
I think I'll keep the cost of the project down by going with the 6.5x55 Swede or tthe .270 Win. There may be a .300 Win or .338 Win in the future. I have .22 cal, .22 hornet, .223. Then I step up to the .243 and .30-06. I want to fill in between the .243 and .30-06. Afterwards I'll consider the .300 Win, .338 Win, or .358 Win.

 

Tom F

 

ok here is my .02cents. Have no problem with the 6.5x55 swedish mauser. Great cartridge actually. Don't chortchange your self by getting a slower twist than let's say a standard 1896 barrel. I think they run about 1x7.8 or something similar. That fast twist is for the 160gr round nosed bullet. That bullet is renown for its accuracy, penetration and power. But if you only plan on shooting bullets of less than 140grains and below. Than a slower twist tube should serve you well. I was thinking 1x9 or 1x10 for the lighter bullets. And get a recessed target crown cut while the smith has it in the lathe. Will protect the rifling at the muzzle from dings and dents. Hope this helps. Course if you are thinking about a heavier caliber loot at the 7mm mauser. Here you can go up to 175 grains. another power house of a bullet. And recoil isn't that much than the 6.5x55 swedish mauser, I have a 1895 chilean mauser action in very fine shape. One of these days will have to get a 7mm tube for it. If only to shoot cast bullets. Frank

 

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Since you've already decided on the 6.5x55 (great choice by the way) I'll just stick in my 2 cents worth. 375/06 plenty of bullet weights from 200 to 300 grains to play with. Cast bullets as well. Just like the 375 caliber in just about any flavor. Happy New Year all. Frank

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Since you've already decided on the 6.5x55 (great choice by the way) I'll just stick in my 2 cents worth. 375/06 plenty of bullet weights from 200 to 300 grains to play with. Cast bullets as well. Just like the 375 caliber in just about any flavor. Happy New Year all. Frank

 

Why bother with the wildcat when you can do a factory 9.3x62? Cost wise, custom dies are a real detractor. Though the cast .375's sure are fun.

 

The 6.5x55 is also super with cast bullets.

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