Kyle Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 I'm working on my first sporter project and I'm wondering what the most durable metal finish is. I don't care much about the looks or ease of application I just want the strongest finish possible. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 I'm working on my first sporter project and I'm wondering what the most durable metal finish is. I don't care much about the looks or ease of application I just want the strongest finish possible. Any suggestions? Parkerizing is a really durable finish that is easy to do with minimal equipment and looks good. But slow rust bluing is one of the best and longest lasting. -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzRednek Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 I'm working on my first sporter project and I'm wondering what the most durable metal finish is. If you're really serious about wanting the most durable, black chrome or nickel plating. When done properly it is also the most attractive and by far the most expensive. I don't care much about the looks or ease of application I just want the strongest finish possible. Finding somebody to do it correctly would likely be the biggest challenge. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_roscoedoh_* Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 My next working gun will be coated with either some proprietary coating like Rogard or more likely Duracoat over manganese parkerizing. The next two rifles I am working on will be slow rust blued with either Gun Goddess or DT's homebrew blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 So parkerizing is probably the best finish I can do by myself with limited equipment? Can I parkerize all the metal parts like trigger assembly, etc as well as the outside? How about the inside of the barrel, chamber, bolt and things like that? Is parkerizing a good finish on its own or is it better with bake on paint over it? What do I need to parkerize? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobVZ Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Kyle, Slow rust blue is by far the most durable finish you can achieve with limited resources. I have blued several rifles with nothing more than the bluing solution, steel wool and an old 4 qt pot with a lid modified with steam vents. I boiled the small parts between passes in the pot and steamed the barrel using the vents. I made the bluing solution myself from a formula in Angiers book. My total cost was $36 for the chemicals and steel wool and that did three rifles with enough bluing solution left to do 100 more! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Kyle, Slow rust blue is by far the most durable finish you can achieve with limited resources. I have blued several rifles with nothing more than the bluing solution, steel wool and an old 4 qt pot with a lid modified with steam vents. I boiled the small parts between passes in the pot and steamed the barrel using the vents. I made the bluing solution myself from a formula in Angiers book. My total cost was $36 for the chemicals and steel wool and that did three rifles with enough bluing solution left to do 100 more! Bob Could you share the formula with me? Where did you get the chemicals you need? Can you tell the finish is homemade or does it end up looking just as good as the bluing on new commercial rifles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manureman Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Kyle what little rust bluing I've done and seen is sharp,as sharp or sharper in my opinion than most shiny hot blue jobs its more of a satin look than shiny or matte.Takes some time but not forever,but bluing hides NOTHING only makes it blue.You need a Brownells catalog and when you order it have them send you their FREE bluing instructions and also their FREE parkerizing instructions.I got their bluing instructions a few years back and it has a bunch of good info from cold blue to rust blue to hot blue,I've got the parekerizing instructions ordered,at one time you could down load this info off the net but I can't find it any more. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobVZ Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Kyle, Here's a link http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=144 to some archival info from this forum on rust bluing saved by Flaco. My formula is posted about halfway through. Manureman is right about reading everything you can before starting. Also, practice on some old barrels or other parts before attempting it for real. You need to get a feel for how long to rust the parts and what it should look like before and after boiling/steaming. The finished product is as good as anything I have seen - satin blue/black. It all depends on metal prep and technique. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Kyle, Here's a link http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=144 to some archival info from this forum on rust bluing saved by Flaco. My formula is posted about halfway through. Manureman is right about reading everything you can before starting. Also, practice on some old barrels or other parts before attempting it for real. You need to get a feel for how long to rust the parts and what it should look like before and after boiling/steaming. The finished product is as good as anything I have seen - satin blue/black. It all depends on metal prep and technique. Bob Thanks, that link was very helpful. What metal parts on the rifle should not be blued? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Parkerizing is said to be the most durable (if you wish to give up good looks). But beauty is in the eye of the beholder, or so they say. I like hot salt bluing for the real custom rifles, the ones that really deserve it. For the rest (or those parts that cannot be blued) I can see parkerizing or bake-on finishes. Many military rifles look nice parkerized. Here is a pic of the gas tube of my M-1 that was pitted. I bead blasted it and parkerized it. Just the gas tube. I got a gallon of concentrate from Midway or Brownell's and it will do many more. fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobVZ Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 Kyle, With rust blueing, everything but the springs can be blued(rust blueing can alter the springs surface and subject it to cracking). If its a Mauser, I personally like the barrel, receiver and bottom metal rust blued, with the bolt and follower in-the-white. I also like the bolt stop and spring nitre blued. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimic Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 I believe that the only gunmetal finish to pass the 5000 hour salt water test was Duracoat. I find that it is very easy to apply with an inexpensive airbrush, and it has to be the toughest stuff I've run accross. Chemicle resistant, impervious to moisture, heck I can't even sandblast it off...... hold hard, mimic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 I'm working on my first sporter project and I'm wondering what the most durable metal finish is. I don't care much about the looks or ease of application I just want the strongest finish possible. Any suggestions? You can always take it to an outfit that does rhino linings for pickup truck beds.That may be pretty durable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montea6b Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Cheddar cheese and egg yolk form a very durable baked on metal finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donmarkey Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Cheddar cheese and egg yolk form a very durable baked on metal finish. Is that where "the proof is in the frying pan"? -Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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