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1936 Mexican Mauser


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#1 z1r

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Posted 11 June 2008 - 07:19 PM

Here are some pics of a Mexican Mauser build I'm working on. I worked on the receiver today.

Here is the action before I started on it. It's bolted onto my receiver fixture. I use the fixture for rouging the rear bridge in the mill. Makes it a much quicker job.



Here we have the receiver after I have recontoured and rough polished the action.



Here it is drilled & tapped next to another '36 Mexican showing the rear tang that was recontoured.



Here's a side shot of the tang profile.



I'll finish the bolt handle on Friday and resolve any feed issues then send it out for heat treating.

#2 donmarkey

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Posted 11 June 2008 - 08:02 PM

Looks great Mike, keep the pics coming.
-Don

#3 Clemson

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Posted 11 June 2008 - 09:20 PM

Oh, man! That is just FINE work!

Thanks, Mike. Keep 'em coming.

Clemson smile.gif

#4 wfpack14

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Posted 11 June 2008 - 10:02 PM

Looks great z1r....................I can't wait to shoot it laugh.gif

#5 z1r

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 07:57 AM

Here's a little touch I added to the receiver to give it a cleaner look.


The unaltered action on the left has a siderail that is rounded and very high. Compared to a vz24 or k98 it looks kinda chunky. So, I altered it to resemble a vz24 style as you can see on the right. Plus, I shaved .25 oz off the weight, lol.



More pics after the weekend when I get the bolt handle put on.



#6 724wd

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 08:24 AM

i dare say that is dead sexy!

heath

#7 montea6b

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 04:25 PM

Excellent work!

#8 LongIsland

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 05:58 PM

Hey Mike, looks great, was the front and rear rings surface ground? nice detail on the side rail, so many guys overlook that. Do you fish tail the sear slot ? With the tapered tang, the sear sometimes nicks up the slot or jumps the slot alltogether. Keep the pics commin.

Bob H.

#9 LongIsland

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 06:02 PM


PS- Your web site looks great

#10 z1r

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 06:23 PM

QUOTE (LongIsland @ Jun 12 2008, 05:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey Mike, looks great, was the front and rear rings surface ground? nice detail on the side rail, so many guys overlook that. Do you fish tail the sear slot ? With the tapered tang, the sear sometimes nicks up the slot or jumps the slot alltogether. Keep the pics commin.

Bob H.


Bob, you can't see it in the pics but the rear of the slot is flared. Must be the angle or glare. If a bolt is going to nick the tang it will do so regardless of whether it has been thinned. But that's a good point, one that many overlook. Before thinning you should check your bolt/receiver fit. If it is the kind that is loose and woobles side to side you may want to skip the thinning or hold off until you get better fitting bolt if possible.

Thanks, my wife did a great job on the site.

#11 weaver77

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Posted 12 June 2008 - 08:22 PM

looking good mike i really like the side rail treatment i really gives the receiver a (for lack of a better word) crisper leaner look
keep up the great work

weaver77

#12 wfpack14

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Posted 13 June 2008 - 06:59 AM

Mike I really like that side rail, that is something I would have never even considered or noticed had you not pointed it out, sure makes a big difference when you see it sitting next to one that isn't done.

#13 z1r

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Posted 23 June 2008 - 09:43 PM

Here's a quick update. Bolt finished, receiver notched for bolt, Saterlee 3 position safety fitted. The Satterlee safety is very nice.



I put the final bevel on the left siderail.



Action ready to be sent out for heat treating.

Got the match grade 6.5x55 reamer so as soon as the action comes back, I'll be threading & chambering the barrel.

#14 Spiris

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 07:40 AM

That is so crisp & clean looking and I especially like the simplicity of the bolt's line. Everything flows so well. What barrel is being used?

Spiris

#15 z1r

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 08:07 AM

QUOTE (Spiris @ Jun 24 2008, 07:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That is so crisp & clean looking and I especially like the simplicity of the bolt's line. Everything flows so well. What barrel is being used?

Spiris


If I remember right a Shilen #2?


#16 wfpack14

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 08:41 AM

Shilen #3 cut down to 24 inches. I think we decided to take some length out of the chamber end and the muzzle end.

#17 z1r

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 09:10 AM

I knew it was a Shilen. Contrary to popular belief, I don't keep all my projects here in my office with me. wink.gif They reside along with my build notes in my Storage vault. I can't remeber em all so that's where the notes come in handy.

The beauty of these little actions is not that they're an ounce lighter than a Std 98, it's that they allow the use of a lighter barrel profile that doesn't look out of place.

Much like this Husky 1600. They too are a small ring. This one had a much skinnier Pac-Nor barrel that would have looked really goofy had we started with a 98. The over chamber area ofthe barrel can be cut to a smaller diameter to better blend with the action size.





#18 wfpack14

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 09:43 AM

I really like the stock on that husky.....did that come from the same guy as the one I am getting?

#19 z1r

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Posted 24 June 2008 - 10:31 AM

QUOTE (wfpack14 @ Jun 24 2008, 09:43 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I really like the stock on that husky.....did that come from the same guy as the one I am getting?


No, this stock is for a standard length 98 (small ring). Also, it has a good deal of drop which is why we used it because of the iron sights. the key to a good stock it to rasp off about half the wood that comes on the supplied semi-inlet. All stocks these days, unless they are made from your pattern, are too chunky. We could all take a lesson from the Germans when it comes to making svelte, nice handling stocks.

#20 z1r

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 03:34 PM

Here's a pic of the barrel. A #3 Shilen was supplied but the #3 measures 1.250" just ahead of the shank. That is darn near the same as the SR receiver. So, on the lathe it went to trim the cylinder down to 1.100". When you do that the cylnder gets longer. That's how it is now in the pic. I still need to shorten the chamber end about 3/4" recontour the transition, then turn the shank & thread. Just triming that 1/8" off the diameter shed 1/4 lbs.



More pics as I make progress.




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