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Blueing And Parkerizing


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#1 8uck5nort

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 03:53 PM

I found a 30 inch Stainless tank for around 100 bucks. I found a 24 inch tank with a SS basket with ss handle for 59 bucks (it's actually a fish poacher but will work). The extra six inches is probably a good thing, but cost is always a concern.

Do you guys typically pull the barrels and do the barrel/action seperate which then makes the 24 inch adequate for anything I'll be doing, or do you try and do them attached to each other?

Question I got is do you want to parkerize the inside of a barrel or chamber?

Can you parkerize everything? To me it would seem you would not want to parkerize the inside of your barrel, but I don't really know. How about the action rails? bolt? firing pins, etc...

#2 Dr.Hess

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 07:22 PM

I'm not an expert, but it is my understanding that one never blues/parkerizes the inside of the barrel. Have you ever seen one blued/parkerized? I haven't. They plug the ends of the barrel before dropping it in the tank. And I think they do the actions with the barrels on them. A hundred bucks for a stainless tank that size seems kinda high to me. Stainless is like a buck or two a pound, and a 18ga or thinner tank for blueing shouldn't be that much. Try a sheet metal shop that does a lot of stainless and show them a drawing or picture.

#3 gun nutty

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 08:30 PM

Parkerizing WILL destroy the bore of a barrel.

Bluing shouldn't. My factory barrels are all blue inside.

#4 waterdogz

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 09:24 PM

I have parkerized a few. Do not park the chamber or bore! For a rifle, I would not park the receiver and barrel seperately. Do the barreled receiver with the ends plugged. They actually have rubber plugs for both ends. As far as the tank is concerned, 30 is probably a little short for rifle work unless all your barrels are in the 22" range. LOL Brownell's sells a full length ( 40" I think) stainless tank for $150. If you know a tin knocker, I'm sure he could make what you want for about $50. That's what I did. If you are doing pistols and the such, I have found tons of old steam table trays at the local auction. can be picked up for a song. Your tanks don't have to be boiler plate either. You will be working at temps less than 200 degrees f.
Hope this helps.

-dogz-

#5 tanglewood16137

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Posted 19 January 2010 - 06:39 AM

Guys i can't remember which it is but i think parking solution is a no no in stainless it either ruins the solution or the vessel can't remember what it is most tanks are made of carbon steel plate

Rod

#6 donmarkey

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 04:22 PM

Guys i can't remember which it is but i think parking solution is a no no in stainless it either ruins the solution or the vessel can't remember what it is most tanks are made of carbon steel plate

Rod


No Rod you are thinking backwards, you need a ss tank for parking.
Don

#7 ken98k

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 09:12 PM

No Rod you are thinking backwards, you need a ss tank for parking.
Don


Correct, stainless for parkerizing, black iron for blueing.

#8 gitano

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 10:09 PM

Stainless is fine for bluing too. All of the tanks I use for hot caustic bluing are stainless steel.

DO NOT PLUG THE BARREL IF YOU ARE HOT (about 275 F) BLUING! If you do, not long after you dip the barrel, 'things' will get very unpleasantly exciting as the plugs blow out.

Parkerizing isn't a "hot" process, and you should plug the barrel. As has been said, Parkerizing is a much more 'caustic' process and will harm the bore. It's pretty simple to figure out. Hold a newly parkerized barrel in your hand. Would you want your bore to feel like that?

A blued bore isn't "blue" very long.

Paul

#9 Westcliffe01

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:24 PM

Come on guys....

Century Arms parks their receivers with barrel and bore all the time... At least they did on my Golani/Galil and at least one other person I know... It cost me quite a bit to fix that mess and no way you send it back to those ham handed fiends to get fixed.. In addition, they head spaced by cutting back the bolt face, with the result that the extractor was no longer in the correct position and the gun wouldn't eject its brass. If that was not enough, they dremeled away parts of the rail on the bolt carrier so that the bolt carrier pops out of the rail intermittently when in the fully rearward position. What else.. Worn out folding stock knuckle, and the receiver (which they don't make themselves) is out of spec on virtually every critical dimension (which is why they resort to all the uneducated dremel work).

I will NEVER buy anything they they have touched again.. The AKparts kit guns look cheap now, after my "education".




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