[8uck5nort]

Just got a reality check after atttending a FASFA workshop for my son who is attending college this fall. I will be beyond broke shortly...

I was originally going to get a small compressor and accessories for sandblasting, and a SS tank and the chemicals for parkerizing, but I am not going to be able to acquire all that stuff and be able to get the current project done, well not for another 10 years or so at the rate the colleges will burn through my money. <_<

This looks like a lower cost alternative that will still produce a decent metal finish as long as I rough the surface and throughouly clean/degreas before applicaiton. Oh yeah I don't have an oven big enough to fit a barreled action in either, so it needs to be a no bake solution for now.

Looks like I can get this done for under 30-40 bucks or so.

[gun nutty]

For a one-off, why not do the prep work yourself and farm out the parkerizing?

I'd rather pay a little more for what I want than settle for something less.

[rebel49]

What are you trying to park? And would hot black oxide look like what you would want?
The reason I'm asking is that I have a blaster and tanks. And I might be able to help you out.
I'm about central IL. near Ottawa north of I-80. Send me an e-mail if you are interested thru my profile, mark the subject "gun work for LCE"
Rebel49

[8uck5nort]

rebel49, on 27 January 2010 - 11:09 PM, said:

What are you trying to park? And would hot black oxide look like what you would want?
The reason I'm asking is that I have a blaster and tanks. And I might be able to help you out.
I'm about central IL. near Ottawa north of I-80. Send me an e-mail if you are interested thru my profile, mark the subject "gun work for LCE"
Rebel49

Appreciate the offer for help. I may end up taking you up on that. I have done some network consulting work out your way last year in Princeton, Ill.

I have decided to give blueing one more try. It is a barreled action that I will be working on. I have it pretty much sanded down to bare metal and will work this weekend on getting it polished up to 800 grit. This time I am going to heat the metal with in boiling water to get the temp up to 200+ and then apply the blue. We'll see what happens.

[rebel49]

8uck5nort, on 01 February 2010 - 07:53 PM, said:

Appreciate the offer for help. I may end up taking you up on that. I have done some network consulting work out your way last year in Princeton, Ill.

I have decided to give blueing one more try. It is a barreled action that I will be working on. I have it pretty much sanded down to bare metal and will work this weekend on getting it polished up to 800 grit. This time I am going to heat the metal with in boiling water to get the temp up to 200+ and then apply the blue. We'll see what happens.

No problem the offer is still open if you need it. I was out to Princeton Sunday for the gun show.
I'm about 20 miles North of Ottawa. Have my own small gunsmithing business at the home. About the only guy around here doing any work on firearms anymore. Not real busy this winter so I've been trying to get some of my own stuff done.
800 will show any imperfection up and if you are not doing a Dicropan blue 200F is to hot. Stay around 100-150F with cold blues like Oxpho and you'll be fine. If it doesn't work out let me know and we can go to Plan B.
rebel49

[ken98k]

I have been using Belgian Blue with good results but it does require a tank large enough to boil whatever parts you are bluing.

[Clemson]

I just ordered a can of Alumahyde II to use on an aluminum picatinny rail. I'll let you know how it works for me.

Clemson

[8uck5nort]

Clemson how did this work out for you?

[Clemson]

8uck5nort, on 17 February 2010 - 07:23 AM, said:

Clemson how did this work out for you?

I haven't used it yet. The Picatinny was back-ordered -- just got it this week. I hope I can get to the project within the next 3-4 weeks.

Clemson

[Polock]

Clemson, on 18 February 2010 - 08:21 PM, said:

I haven't used it yet. The Picatinny was back-ordered -- just got it this week. I hope I can get to the project within the next 3-4 weeks.

Clemson

I've used Alumahyde II on a Indian 2A and a spare bbl I had sitting around. Quite satisfied with results; did not sandblast, quick rub down with 80 grit. Used matt black & grey parkerizing. The parker was a very light grey--when I use it again I'll get a can of the dark grey. Make sure to degrease well, and use very light coats--wait a min or 2 before adding additional coats. Probably most important, it takes this stuff a long time to completely dry! I tried to re-assemble my rifle in about a week, and got some "wrinkles" when I fitted some of the parts. Next time I'll wait a month before reassembly.