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I have a pawn shop prize model 98 oberndorf that someone put a very nice flamed WALNUT!! stock on and then somehow they broke it at the wrist and used SHEETROCK SCREWS :blink: to fix it!!!!!. I dont want to replace the stock because it is litterally the nicest stock I have seen. I want to glue it and put dowels in it for extra support. What kinda glue do you recomend. I was thinkin 2 part epoxy or gorrilla glue. Any suggestions????
Thanks
PaulS
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Broken Stock ! What glue should I use?
MultiQuote
#2
Dr.Hess 
Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:45 PM
The gunsmith guy who writes a SGN column uses 2 part epoxy, gorilla glue or Brownell's bedding compound, depending on what phase of the moon is or what he has handy, I think. He has had some interesting repair articles. A dowel or even a bolt buried off in the epoxy or bedding compound will add a lot of strength, according to him. He likes the bedding compound because you can tint it to match the stock and when it's all together, you don't see it.
#3
gun nutty
Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:48 PM
Epoxy or AcraGlass (which is epoxy).
Some of the folks on here insist on wood/Elmer's glue. I'd be very concerned about strength in the wrist.
The hardware store sells some stuff in a double-syringed setup. I think it was 1-Ton (maybe 1.5-Ton?). Basically a 50/50 mix that mixes clear and dries quickly. I put the dabs from the two tubes onto a piece of cardboard and stir with a toothpick.
I'd be more concerned about getting a solid clamping while letting the glue/epoxy cure.
I will add that I won't use Gorilla glue. It "expands". I ruined a simple project by having that stuff foam out all around the connecting-joint area. It may have its uses, but certainly not for wood gunstocks.
Some of the folks on here insist on wood/Elmer's glue. I'd be very concerned about strength in the wrist.
The hardware store sells some stuff in a double-syringed setup. I think it was 1-Ton (maybe 1.5-Ton?). Basically a 50/50 mix that mixes clear and dries quickly. I put the dabs from the two tubes onto a piece of cardboard and stir with a toothpick.
I'd be more concerned about getting a solid clamping while letting the glue/epoxy cure.
I will add that I won't use Gorilla glue. It "expands". I ruined a simple project by having that stuff foam out all around the connecting-joint area. It may have its uses, but certainly not for wood gunstocks.
#4
pacrat
Posted 20 June 2010 - 12:13 AM
How about a picture of the break to better ascertain what will be required to repair it with the best result?
Generally, I rely on steel all thread rod for its strenght and gripability with epoxy compounds, such as Acra-Glass or Devcon 2 ton epoxy.
note.....fast setting epoxy is to be avoided for this type application. Obvious short working time to get things aligned and clamped. Also they are more brittle than the slow set types when fully cured. The extra set time allows the epoxy to more deeply penetrate the wood before setting up creating a much stronger bond.
JM2C
Generally, I rely on steel all thread rod for its strenght and gripability with epoxy compounds, such as Acra-Glass or Devcon 2 ton epoxy.
note.....fast setting epoxy is to be avoided for this type application. Obvious short working time to get things aligned and clamped. Also they are more brittle than the slow set types when fully cured. The extra set time allows the epoxy to more deeply penetrate the wood before setting up creating a much stronger bond.
JM2C
#6
gun nutty
Posted 20 June 2010 - 12:13 PM
http://www.charm.net...ass_repair.html
Link to a threaded brass rod repair how to.
I question how a properly set, strong epoxy repair will ever need brass rods, but an interesting read all the same.
Link to a threaded brass rod repair how to.
I question how a properly set, strong epoxy repair will ever need brass rods, but an interesting read all the same.
#7
pacrat
Posted 20 June 2010 - 02:12 PM
gun nutty, on 20 June 2010 - 01:13 PM, said:
http://www.charm.net...ass_repair.html
Link to a threaded brass rod repair how to.
I question how a properly set, strong epoxy repair will ever need brass rods, but an interesting read all the same.
Link to a threaded brass rod repair how to.
I question how a properly set, strong epoxy repair will ever need brass rods, but an interesting read all the same.
I use a very similar system on every stock I bed. Without drilling all the way through though. I carve a slot perpendicular to the stock behind the mag well and another larger one behind the recoil lug. These are blind slots that cannot be seen after action is bedded.. I make slots as wide as feasable and use 10-32 machine screws behind mag well and 1/4-20 threaded rod to reinforce recoil lug.
#8
gun nutty
Posted 20 June 2010 - 07:55 PM
On the link I posted, he didn't go all the way through. His stock has two rods, one coming in from each side. One was angled slightly up, the other down.
Steel vs. brass? The brass is stronger than the original wood will ever be. The brass will never shear. Brass is also much easier to profile to the contours of the wood (it's softer).
Steel vs. brass? The brass is stronger than the original wood will ever be. The brass will never shear. Brass is also much easier to profile to the contours of the wood (it's softer).
#9
pacrat
Posted 21 June 2010 - 08:05 PM
gun nutty,
The method shown in the link is perfectly feasable and plenty strong. Matters not which metal is used in my method, steel or brass because the purpose isn't tensile strenght of the metal threaded dowel it is to simply bond/lock the endgrain section of the stock behind the recoil lug and mag well. On some actions I do the same between the trigger group and the rear action screw also, such as Mausers. I could just as easily use brass rod. Steel all thread is my choice because it is lighter, cheaper, and more readily attainable. My method does not show on the outside of the stock at all so there is no issue of which is easier to blend to stock contour.
If you ask 10 different folks who are experienced in epoxy bedding actions you will get basically the same answer with at least 10 different variations on the exact methods, materials, and procedures used. None of which are necessarily more right than another, just the preferred method of that individual.
The method shown in the link is perfectly feasable and plenty strong. Matters not which metal is used in my method, steel or brass because the purpose isn't tensile strenght of the metal threaded dowel it is to simply bond/lock the endgrain section of the stock behind the recoil lug and mag well. On some actions I do the same between the trigger group and the rear action screw also, such as Mausers. I could just as easily use brass rod. Steel all thread is my choice because it is lighter, cheaper, and more readily attainable. My method does not show on the outside of the stock at all so there is no issue of which is easier to blend to stock contour.
If you ask 10 different folks who are experienced in epoxy bedding actions you will get basically the same answer with at least 10 different variations on the exact methods, materials, and procedures used. None of which are necessarily more right than another, just the preferred method of that individual.
#10
Paul S
Posted 18 July 2010 - 03:12 PM
Here she is!!! I fixed the break before I could get pics loaded but I used the metal rod and epoxy. I embedded a threaded steal rod in the wood pointing from the front to butt inside the stock so if it did erbreak it wouldnt be so apt to fly back in my face. I also put a 3/8 dowel rod all the way through from top to bottom for extra strength because it has some real recoil.
The stock was then reshaped on the fore end and I also added my version of a shnobel(sp?). The wood is a bit of a mistery because it has open grain like walnut but the grain is kinda like maple. The color is natural because I didnt use any stain so its a lot darker than maple. The stock was so beatiful and comfy I hated to scrap it and this was my first attempt at sporterizing so if it dont work I will atleast have learned some stuff.
This was my first attempt at this bad of a break so I hope it will hold up because I intend to try to burn the rifling out of it as soon as possible. I also intalled a scope, safety and a butter knife bolt handle so Im good to go.
The stock was then reshaped on the fore end and I also added my version of a shnobel(sp?). The wood is a bit of a mistery because it has open grain like walnut but the grain is kinda like maple. The color is natural because I didnt use any stain so its a lot darker than maple. The stock was so beatiful and comfy I hated to scrap it and this was my first attempt at sporterizing so if it dont work I will atleast have learned some stuff.
This was my first attempt at this bad of a break so I hope it will hold up because I intend to try to burn the rifling out of it as soon as possible. I also intalled a scope, safety and a butter knife bolt handle so Im good to go.
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