Barrel Vise And Action Wrench
Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:39 PM
Now I've decided to take a shot at building my own rifle. Nothing serious, just hobby stuff. One of the things I am looking at is a barrel vice and action wrench.
I have been looking at a Wheeler engineering wrench since I will pretty much be sticking with Mauser actions. The Tubb barrel vice looks like about the best for the money, $55 = $15 shipping.
Are these good tools or is there something else I should be looking at?
I can rent the reamer and headspace gauges.
I don't have room for anything as big as a lathe, and don't know how to run one anyway, but I do have a good vice, bench grinder, buffer, and plenty of hand tools. My next equipment purchase is probably going to be drill press, I do know how to run that.
I am nearly 58 and looking for something that I like to do that can keep me busy when I retire in a few years.
Posted 13 February 2012 - 01:06 PM
That way you could make your own action wrench and barrel vise.
That will also allow you to make parts and do other projects
If you can run a dril press you can run a mill/Drill
Posted 15 February 2012 - 02:49 PM
For what it is worth, there is a good deal of variance in dimensions between Mauser actions. That means that rebarreling without a lathe is a crapshoot, as more often than not you will have to shorten the tenon or push back the secondary recoil shoulder. You may be able to make a rifle that is safe to shoot, but making one as accurate as possible requires fitting that barrel, and that means you really need to have a lathe.
Posted 15 February 2012 - 03:36 PM
These are the receiver wrench and barrel vice I am looking at.
Posted 15 February 2012 - 04:03 PM
For a lathe, there is really no good substitute for size. The small ones may not have the spindle hole size. I use a large lathe, but I am a professional gunsmith. The bigger the better for most work that I do! I have seen really good barrel work done on a 9" South Bend, but it had enough bed length to work the outboard end of the barrel in the steady rest. Optimum would be at least 40" bed length to allow space for a reamer between the tailstock and the barrel.
Posted 15 February 2012 - 05:56 PM
Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:34 PM
What Clemson said about the lathe is spot on, as far as the action wrench, I'd make my own and add the 58.99 to a better barrel vice.
I agree with Lemski4, stay away from the Tubb barrel vice.
I use a Wheeler vice but I replaced the wood blocks for steel blocks with aluminum bushings.
If I had to do it over, I would get a Brownells vice.
I also use a Wheeler action wrench which has served me very well on the mauser rifles I work on but, once again if I were to do it over I'd get the wrench from Brownells also.
Posted 16 February 2012 - 09:14 AM
Posted 16 February 2012 - 06:02 PM
Posted 16 February 2012 - 08:21 PM
I will probably stick to wood & metal refinishing and trying master stock checkering which has always fascinated me and hand loading. I'm sure that I will be back with questions from time to time. There are things that I can do without a ton of machine tools like converting my RRA 20" Hbar to a 24" 6.5 Grendel. You just got to love a round that has been documented putting 1.198" groups down at 660yds.
Posted 19 February 2012 - 01:44 PM
I am a systems engineer and I completed my Cisco CCNP at 51, I can sure as hell learn how to run a lathe. And this way I can do it without having to buy a new house.
I have an 18 year old son who is as in to rifles as I am so we can learn together.
I am going to go ahead and get the wrench and vice I have been looking at, if I run into one that I can't break loose there are several gunsmiths in town who can do it for me.
I can also pay one of them to go over my work the first couple of times. I am not afraid to stop and seek help.
Anyway you look at it, it's still cheaper than golf.
Posted 19 February 2012 - 07:57 PM
Posted 19 February 2012 - 08:37 PM
Posted 20 February 2012 - 12:09 PM
After looking at the 10" lathe I have decided that 14" is going to be about minimum. The 10" would be OK if I had to face off a deep chambered barrel or that sort of thing but you would be hard pressed to fit a reamer between the barrel and the tailstock.
I don't mind spending $1000 or so on a lathe and tooling, I spend that much eating out in 3 months, but it has got to be light enough to use on a workbench that is sitting on a regular wooden floor. If I had known that I was going to be doing this sort of thing I would have beefed up the floor when I framed in the carport and brought the floor up to house level 19 years ago.
That was probably the best improvement I have ever done to a house. I have all of my loading, gunsmith, camping, etc stuff out here plus I have a window AC unit so I can close the door and the HVAC vents and keep all the stinky stuff from stinking up the rest of the house. A man-cave for me and the cats.
Posted 20 February 2012 - 03:01 PM
I purchased a Cummins 7x12 Mini-lathe with some accessories and a larger 4" 3 jaw chuck, and practiced threading old junk LR 98 barrels with a steady rest and live center until I was ready to tackle the Remington barrels. If you take your time, the mini-lathe will work fine, and you do not need to ream the chambers in the lathe. I always hand ream my chambers after assembling, and if the reamers are sharp, they will recut a chamber in short order.
Just my experience.
Posted 20 February 2012 - 08:39 PM
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