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#1 claytonfaulkner

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 05:39 PM

So who here have bigger medium bores and large bores on Mauser actions? I want to hear about .375 H&H and up. Surely there are some .416 Rigbys and .458 Lotts around here.

I read a few pages back about a 375 H&H and about a 416 Taylor. Nice reads but I am just wondering what else has been done around here.

#2 AzRednek

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 07:53 PM

So who here have bigger medium bores and large bores on Mauser actions? I want to hear about .375 H&H and up. Surely there are some .416 Rigbys and .458 Lotts around here.

I read a few pages back about a 375 H&H and about a 416 Taylor. Nice reads but I am just wondering what else has been done around here.


Few years back I considered a 375 H&H on a Mauser but after learning here and from a local gunsmith the need to grind away on the feed ramp and using a non-standard mag I scratched the project. You may want to give the 375 Ruger some consideration. It is the standard so-called 30/06 length and factory ammo is a bit faster than the H&H. The propriety powder used to load the 375 Ruger isn't available to reloaders yet but hand loaders can drive the 375 Ruger nearly as fast as the H&H.

There is/was a member here that built two 458 Win mags on Mauser actions about 4-5 years ago. If I remember correctly one was built on a Turk. Possibly he may chime into this thread if he is still around. If you're considering a magnum boomer from a Mauser you may want to adopt the KISS rule if it is your first project. Stick with the 30/06 length mags like 458 Win, 375 Ruger, 350 Norma etc. Trying to squeeze an H&H length cartridge into a Mauser mag assembly might involve more work and expense than you want to deal with. If you just have to have an H&H length cartridge you might consider building it on a 1917 Enfield.


#3 claytonfaulkner

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Posted 17 February 2012 - 11:02 PM

Never built a mauser before but I have an action that has been sitting around for years. I have been studying it a lot lately and and have no intention on this being done any time soon but I was just wondering what y'all have done. I wanted to start working on mausers a few years ago but school came along and it got put pretty far at the back of my list of priorities.

I guess I am curious to see what the average Joe has done.

#4 lemski4

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 05:44 AM

I think the main obstacle is the magazine box length. Do you alter the stock bottom metal, or buy a magnum trigger guard? The standard US belted mags are 2.5" - 2.62" case length, and the full length belted magnums are 2.8" - 2.85". But if you wanted to do a blind magazine, all you'd need is a sheet metal box, but on a dangerous game rifle I'd think that a removable floor plate would serve a valuable purpose.

#5 donmarkey

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:08 AM

Biggest issue is mag box width and length, if you don't want it to feed like crap you almost have to get aftermarket bottom metal or heavily modify the existing one. I my opinion this is the case with any magnum though. With the h+h's you need to more the box back farther to the rear so you don't cut into the ramp too much. Not rocket science but take some time and calculations. For me first step in any build is proper sized mag box. There are formulas to size them, let me know the cartrige and I will get you the exact size. You can cheat in the width, but the taper is the big one to keep consistant.
Don

#6 ken98k

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:21 AM

I know of only one member here who built, or is building a 375 H&H on a standard 98 action.
Building that type of rifle reqires a skill set that is lacking by most of our members. That
is not to say we don't have talented builders here, our talents are just stronger in other aspects of the hobby.
Similarly, You will see some very nicely finished stocks here, but, very few that have checkering. Just a matter of skill sets.

I would look here for big bore info http://www.accuratereloading.com/

#7 claytonfaulkner

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 10:02 PM

Biggest issue is mag box width and length, if you don't want it to feed like crap you almost have to get aftermarket bottom metal or heavily modify the existing one. I my opinion this is the case with any magnum though. With the h+h's you need to more the box back farther to the rear so you don't cut into the ramp too much. Not rocket science but take some time and calculations. For me first step in any build is proper sized mag box. There are formulas to size them, let me know the cartrige and I will get you the exact size. You can cheat in the width, but the taper is the big one to keep consistant.
Don


Do you care to share the formulas?

#8 Sailormilan2

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 11:29 PM

I have built two Mauser 98s in 376 Steyr. They will soon be converted to 375 Ruger as soon as I can locate some magnum faced bolts. 375 Ruger is good. No major modification of the receiver is needed for it.

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#9 ken98k

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 11:49 AM

I have built two Mauser 98s in 376 Steyr. They will soon be converted to 375 Ruger as soon as I can locate some magnum faced bolts. 375 Ruger is good.


I think you posted them before. Both beautiful rifles.

2 questions-

1. Why change from 376 steyr?
2. Why not just open up the faces of the present bolts?

I'm currently working on a 375 ruger but I just ordered (saturday) a 375 blank with the notion of building 376 steyr on a yugo action.

#10 donmarkey

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 05:08 PM

Do you care to share the formulas?


Kind of long and complicated, I can post all the info or I have it in an excel program where all you need to do it type in you case dimension and it calculates it for you. Basically you just multiply the case dia by 1.866 and add .003. That is your rear width measurement, now the you can do the same for the width at the shoulder measurement. But it's a little more involved and factors in COL to find the front width, because it is a taper and the angle needs to continue forward.

BTW anyone interrested in a NOS fn trigger guard (not hinged) in 375 length before it hits gunbroker? (SOLD)

Don

#11 Sailormilan2

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 09:04 PM

I think you posted them before. Both beautiful rifles.

2 questions-

1. Why change from 376 steyr?
2. Why not just open up the faces of the present bolts?

I'm currently working on a 375 ruger but I just ordered (saturday) a 375 blank with the notion of building 376 steyr on a yugo action.



I opened up the bolt face myself, and I am not that good with a lathe. I may send them off and get someone to do it for me. I am using a full length action, and I think the 375 Ruger might make better use of the space in the magazine.

#12 claytonfaulkner

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Posted 28 February 2012 - 10:14 PM

Kind of long and complicated, I can post all the info or I have it in an excel program where all you need to do it type in you case dimension and it calculates it for you. Basically you just multiply the case dia by 1.866 and add .003. That is your rear width measurement, now the you can do the same for the width at the shoulder measurement. But it's a little more involved and factors in COL to find the front width, because it is a taper and the angle needs to continue forward.

BTW anyone interrested in a NOS fn trigger guard (not hinged) in 375 length before it hits gunbroker?

Don



Interesting, so if the case has a diameter of D at the base and a diameter of F at the shoulder the formula would look something like D+D*cos(30) for the back of the magazine and F+F*cos(30) for the shoulder. From that the equation for the front would be front=F'-x*(F'-D')/L with F' being the width and the back of the magazine, D' being the width at the shoulder, x being COL and L being the length from the shoulder to the base.

Oh and add .003 to final dimensions.


What is a NOS trigger guard? And how much?

Edited by claytonfaulkner, 29 February 2012 - 06:09 PM.


#13 donmarkey

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Posted 29 February 2012 - 10:51 AM

Looks right, but I'm not math whiz so I would have to double checkand actually run it with case dimensions. The height of the box can be figured the same way, but with the desired number of rounds factored in along with the approx .300 for the rails and subtracting about .130 for the follower thickness. Noting that with some rounds you can add capacity with only altering the height of the box slightly. Even with most semi inlet stock there is enough material to not need a custom stock.
Now once you establish the taper of the box, you can shrink it to fit a narrower receiver or for less rail modifacation. The taper is the important part, the round will still strip off correctly in a narrower bow. As for the guard NOS (new old stock). I was thinking of $75. (SOLD Sorry but I'll keep the pics up for reference)
Don
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