z1r

Last Friday I took my 5 YO out shooting for the first time. We had a blast (pun intended). He did very well and observed the safety rules better than I had expected. It helped that I had a friend, a retired Denver PD along. Sometimes kids listen better to others especially when they are older. Anyway, we started with open sights and he did pretty good. I got him a CZ scout rifle when we stilled lived in CA and it fits him well but is still just a tad heavy for him to hold off hand. My buddy gave me a tasco red dot sight and we maunted it last night. He was very excited about that. Can;t wait til our next outing.

Anyway, enjoy the time at the range, it seems to get less and less frequent.

Congrats.

Great find, I've been looking for one for years, but like you could never warrant the high price with the other vehicles I already have. I would have jumped on that one too. Around here ones in that price range are rust buckets.

-Don

SAme here, in fact higher priced ones are rust buskets. Jeeps and Subaru's are high priced.

Been up to my ears in bolt handles lately. I had two jobs recently to fix the handles that were installed by some well known smiths. Both were botched.

Here is a before pic of one:

What you can't really see form the pic is the file marks all over, the weld spallter on the bolt body, and the fact that the angle of attachment is all wrong. It wouldn't even clear a scope in a set of HIGH Talley's. Then, as an after thought, he took the grinder to the handle but again the angle was all wrong.

I managed to salvage the $150 bolt handle and reweld it cleaning up all the voids and pits in the original.

Here is the after pic:

Here are three more I just did for another customer. He wanted all three different.

Here is one I did for another gent:

And I just started on two more Yugo bolts.

I had to laugh, I got up this moring and last night's little sprinkles froze my doors shut on the car. By 10:00 I was running the A/C in the car, lol. Welcome to the Rockies.

Only starting, I need to work harder then, lol.

I do get lucky now and again.

I needed the reamer I shortened the chamber end of the barrel.

If I had not removed the k-kale style lip from the front of the receiver the barrel would probably have worked and I would have saved $150.00 for the cost of the reamer and gages.

If you have to setback the barrel and rethread maybe the reamer will fit. It's possible. Maybe try it before you send it back off for fixing.

Definitely set the headspace first, then cut the extractor slot.

Funny thing about hindsight, it always kicks in when it's too late.

Don't worry, you'll get er done!

I've decided to do my Siamese in 7.62x54R. Just in case I ever go hunting internationally where the .30-06 isn't as available. That's my excuse anyway, lol.

It only takes a drop or two on a hot manifold to ruin one's day.

Ain't that the truth. Seen a few of those on my buddy's farm.

There are numerous 8mm choices available. Why start with a pre-threaded barrel? It will cost as much to have it rethreaded as it would to start with just a contoured blank.

I'm not a particular fan of ER shaw but I know they will thread you a barrel for the SR Turk 98's. They did one for a friend of mine for his Turk 1903 in .308.

AND... what is behind curtain number three!!

That would be the used but well cared for 1952 FN mauser with B&L scope & mounts. The seller's friend wanted a scope & rings like what were on the gun so I sold him my extras. That led his freind to buy the other set I had and to bring in his persian mauser which had been mannlichered for a new bolt handle and D&T. You could say that the rifle paid for itself.

Hot darn Mike! Nice shootin' iron. I'm guessing that this is one of the by-products of having an FFL??

 

And here I thought I'd been making lots of acquisitions lately... Lucky you!

I guess you could call it that but truthful, as long as I'd had an FFL willing to receive it I wouldn't have needed my ffl.

I do get lucky sometimes. Problem is, I now (For the first time ever) HAVE to sell off some of my guns to pay for these two.

Here's another recent acquisition. A 27" octagon barrel with integral front sight and swell for the rear dovetail. Came with the base for a sidemount that I was lucky enough to have the detachable ringmount for. I paid the enormous sum of $199 for it. I was shopping for actions at Sarco and they were out of about all of their 98 sporter actions. Then the lady says, "well, I have one more in 8x57 but it has been drilled for a side mount and has an octagon barrel." I said, "an octagon barrel, how's the bore." She say's, "good." I say, "I'll take it." Didn't expect much other than to possibly salvage the barrel for a client's project. Rebores of octagons are always popular with my clients.

Anyway, it's in stellar shape. Has had an interesting side safety added that locks the bolt and blocks the trigger. Inletting on the slide is so-so but a neat addition. Anyway, the headspace is generous and I have too many 8x57's so it will be sent off to Jim Dubbell for reboring to 9.3x62.

I picked up this Commercial Mauser Type "S" sporter yesterday. Had to trade more than a few rifles for it. Single square bridge action made in 1943. Uses the standard action rather than the intermediate usually used in the 7x57. Can't wait to hit the range on Friday.

z1r how does the 45-70 head space ?..if the go gauge all ready drops in and also a loaded cartridge.. i"m a little fuzzy about

this..i:ve never worked with rimmed cartridges

All rimmed cartridges are supposed to headspace off the rim.

The reamer going in or not really has nothing to do with headspace. From the description It is hard to tell what the headspace really is. It could be right and the reamer could still not fit due to the pilot.

The following is for illustration purposes only, (I did not dig out my Siamese and measure things):

Some rimmed cartridges will have the rim countersunk and some not. This all depends on the breeching system employed. A mauser, not necessarily a siamese, will nominally have about .110" space between the breech and the boltface. While a .45-70 rim is something like .060" thick. This means you would have to use a breech like those used in the safety breeched mausers. The breech would need to protrude beyond the inner "C" ring. Make sense?

Unusally hot here for this time of year. Been high 80's low 90's. Not your usual weather for Oct. here in Kansas. I'll take the warm though, every day of heat is one I don't have to buy from the gas company. But it sure has been nice here of the evening.

 

Swamprat

That is my feeling exactly. Especially since we've been trying all summer to find someone to replace both our furnaces. It was HOT today and then tonight it already dipped into the low 50's. Kinda the best of both worlds.

Better yet, ask them to convert it to a removable pilot reamer but either will work. Either way, Dave will probably ask you what diameter you want. Do you have any pin gages to determine what the bore really is?

Another thought, is tere any chance that there is a burr or two left over from the chambering job? Something to check that won't cost you anything.

This is a new one to me so I hope someone has a suggestion.

Here's the story-

 

I'm finally getting around to chambering my Siamese 45-70.

The barrel is an ER Shaw that I bought "fully chambered".

The threaded shank was too long so I shortened it. I don't remember how much, maybe a 1/16" or so.

Next I relieved the last thread next to the shoulder.

After assembling the barrel to the receiver, I determined where the extractor relief cut should be, then I removed the barrel and made the cut and reassembled.

 

Now comes the problem. My PTG finish reamer goes in then binds up about 3/8" short of where it needs to go.

It is not cutting at all however,

a. A go gage will drop into the chamber to the rim.

b. A loaded cartridge will drop into the chamber all the way to the rim.

c. The piloted end of the reamer will fit into the muzzle end of the barrel.

d. When I look into the chamber it looks much like my T/C 45-70 chamber with a distinct shoulder for the cartridge mouth. (like a shotgun)

e. The reamer fits easily into the contender chamber.

There is a good chance the pilot is too big for the chamber end of the barrel. It is not uncommon for each end of the barrel to be slightly different in size.

It happened to me before.

Fritz, congrats! Here's to many more!

Though I've owned 93's and 96's I've never had a 95. The 93 is flat the 95 round. I think the '95 bolt will work in a '93 but not visa-versa. I believe fritz knows so perhaps pose the question in the Gunsmithing forum.

Thanks for the info guys.

Would a 1910 mexican bolt work in this receiver?

Yes, 1910 & 1936 bolts will work. the '36 has an additional vent at the top of the boltface and of course, the springfield type cocking piece.

The problem with the mexicans is that the extractor, firing pin, and bolt body are all unique.

You can use yugo bolts in the mexicans and Vlad is spot on about how.

If you shorten the shank you could leave too much of the cartridge head unsupported. That's asking for trouble. Be sure whichever route you take you have enogh case head support.

The Turk '1903 bolts that came with the three mexican receivers I bought had the cartridge guide nubs removed. I just got new bolts instead.

We have a Tank just on the other side of our property line. It's used mostly for watering lawns around here. One guy has water rights and then sells to all our neighbors who water three times a day. Anyway, they all look at me funny when I call it a Tank.

Mine say's Nato - Cougar. The modern equivilent would be the model 2165 I guess. Mine's A .30-06.

My only experience is with an A&B 257 Roberts barrel that I did not install myself. No complaints but I'm convinced I got exactly what I paid for. I did have some fouling problems that seemed to improve with use. If you have been "spoiled" by high priced premium barrels you will be disappointed. If you're like me, been shooting mil-surps or through iron sights for a long time, you will be more than satisfied with the accuracy. Mine is definitely within acceptable killing zone accuracy and it wont embarrass me at the range. As far as the extra scrubbing just tell yourself how much less it cost than a high priced barrel.

 

If you have a perfectionist type personality, best to save your bux and wait until you can get a better one.

Nice post. My experience has been that they foul easily, not all but most. My take is that if you pay someone then spend the extra $50 or so and get a premium barrel. If you are doing the work yourself, then you don't stand to lose as much. Now, to put things in perspective, they are probably on par with many factory barrels.

I used one once on one of my personal guns. It will shoot 1" with some loads but I am used to sub moa and have gotten that will all other brands of better barrels. As AZR said, that is good enough to bag game with, but the German in me won't accept it, lol.

My daughter liked the synthetic look, I tried talking her into a nice walnut stock, but she said these "look cool."

Ah, youth and their ignorance!

If it's hers and she likes it I wouldn't change a thing.