z1r
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Posts posted by z1r
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In photobucket, there is a box (third one down) under your picture. Place your curser in it and left click. this copies the proper coding to allow you to simply hit "control + V" and paste the code into a message.
It should look like this except the start and end brackets will be these [] instead of {}.
{img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/78z1r/DSC00285.jpg[/img}
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z1r that is one fine looking 338-06 what stock did you use and did you do the checkering i have used wood that nice on one yet but am planning on a 7X57 and have something looking like yours in mind and just for the record and to keep with this post i have a 8mm-06 reamer and dies i just havent had time to put them to use and my truck/hog gun is an 8x57 i converted and added a mesquite wood schnabled forend i tried to post pic but havent firged it out yet
Thanks. I used a Richard's microfit that I hand picked. Then I altered it extensively. I shortened the fore arm, and added or I should say, reattached the ebony tip. I opened the grip and added the metal grip cap. I gave the fore end a round profile. Bill Soverns did the checkering.
To post pics you need a picture host like photobucket.com. Upload your pic to their site then copy the link and paste it into your post. Or, you can use the little green box down below that say's upload.
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Don, That's super! Looks much better IMHO. Great job!
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Never tried it, but it should work fine. I'll pull and set of bases and check when I have a minute.
-Don
Yup, The Leupold two piece 98 bases will work on the Yugo's too.
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Gun Broker seems to have more parts and get more traffic. I've noticed a lot of my former favorite sellers are on both, but I imagine that they're testing both AA and GB to see which one sells the best.
There aren't any listing fees so the starting prices seem higher than they were on eBay.
Personally, I find Gun Broker's site easier to use.
That seems to be my feeling too. I bought one of the last bolts for sale off ebay and my purchase price was lower than the starting price of the exact same vendor selling the exact same bolts on Gun Broker. Good for sellers I suppose. Still, not as easy to find specific parts as it was on ebay.
Good luck.
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Don,
It wasn't until a couple of days ago that I noticed the rollover. If it were mine, that would have bene the first thing gone. It seems to me that all you have tried to do to date has been along the lines of following an older more traditional styling. With that in mind, the rollover doesn't really fit. However, as far as rollovers go, I must admit, that one is very unobtrusive. Your rifle, do what makes you happy. Nice thing about having your abilities is that you can leave the rollover, try it, and if you change your mind, remove it later.
Why is it that the farther along in a project you get the more impatient you get?-Don
Because, if you're like me, it's taken you two years to get to this point, lol.
Didi your package arrive?
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i hear some people say that all you need to make a "TWEED" is to take the barrel off of my turk (chamberes in 8x57) and replace it with a 6.5 sweede barrel. is this all that is needed???? i know that i will have to headpsace of corse, but is that it?
Basically yes, but, you may also need to adjust the shank & shoulder length. Some consider this part of headspacing which, to an extent, it is.
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Z if it is like my Voere, the tang safety was the first thing to go, replaced by a Timney. I was going to glass bed the tang in place, to take care of the ugly hole but some how managed to lose it. Mine also walks high right as the free floated barrel heats up. The nice thing though is the over-all lightweight and I just love the mag assembly. Mine is in 308 Norma, my first mag, purchased new apx 72. I shot a deer through the xpress type sights. My front sight hood was gone after the first shot.
I've got so many -06's that I may never really use this one. Mostly it is to use as a reference. Some folks like Tang safeties so I want to study the various designs.
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Cool mauser dude. Have ya got enuff yet?Never, lol.
Oh, Found a box for the barrel, will send this payday. Short last week. anyway, very nice indeedy.DaveI was trying to figure out who the heck that was, lol. Thanks again. They always come in handy. I'd be glad to cover shipping.
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Newest trade.
Jason reminded me that I just traded for this unique mauser.
Here's the neat part, a tang safety.
Neat treatment of the original military shroud:
Check out the cool QD ring setup.
Caliber, .30-06, one can't have too many.
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Ken,
I like the fact that I can spend other people's money. All my own creations have budgetary restraints.
The latest project is .338-06 on an Argentine 1909. It will be an octagon abrrel, blind magazine, skeleton grip cap, trapdoor buttplate, the whole nice yards.
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Here a re a few pics of a Husky 1640 I am rebarreling to .270 Win. I also replaced the old bolt handle and fitted a three position safety. Next I will add front and rear sights and a barrel band swivel stud. The pics show the bolt handle still kind of rough. I just rough shaped it so I could send the owner some pics to be sure it was what he wanted. I got the OK so I'll finish it up and polish, then finish the rest next week. I'll post some pics of it when completed. This is going to be one sweet little rifle. As it sits it weighs a mere 4.5 lbs. Tha's more than a half pound less that your typical light weight 98.


Here is a bonus. I saw this spry young fellow while out hiking with the family this morning. A nice young mulie.

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Congrats! We will be celebrating #8 in two months.
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Happy Birthday Rod!
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I've seen receiver with some slight warpage on them and none displayed the popping up of the bolt that you describe. Doesn't mean it couldn;t happen. About the only thing that could act on the bolt is the rear bolt lug. Think about it. There are other things that could cause your problem.
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You'll do fine. I've done the same many times. Most factory stocks have forends that are way too long. I like to shorten them all when I use a semi-inlet. If it comes with a tip that we can use, I'll cut it off, shorten the forend a couple of inches then reattach the tip. The nice thing about that it sthat it forces you to slim up the stock behind the tip which goes to show that they usually use way too much wood.
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Is anybody else having the problem Fritz is having? I haven't had that happen to me.
I've had that same problem as fritz, aslo, unless I'm logged in I can't view any of the site.
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Here's mine in the white:

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I've not done anything with one, but I would think the magazine would limit options as it requires an en-bloc clip specific to the 8x56R cartridge. It would seem you could mount a scope easily since it is a straight pull-back design and has base mounting points fore and aft. If I were to re-model one, I think I would acquire one with a good bore and leave it in the original chambering. Then I would alter the stock to trimmer lines with a shortened fore end. Surplus ammo is still available and Buffalo Arms has brass. I believe proper .329 bullets are available as are bullet moulds.
Mine remains an 8x56r. Think of it as a rimmed .338 federal. Grafs sells brass, as does, hornady, and both sell the proper .330 bullets.
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Superb Tony. I bet it weighs a ton.
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like most mass produced semi-inlets, the fit and finish will vary wildly. I've had friends & clients who have been happy, some not so, and some both.
I have one of those stocks for a Steyr 95 and there is way too much material. You will be rasping for a while to get the slim stock you want. Better than too little wood but, be aware that it is not drop in by any means.
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Dumb answer.
As inexpensive as these surplus rifles are, wouldn't it be easier (and cheaper) just to have a spare rifle?
Or is it a matter of "you start and end with the same toy"?
The irony of this is that it is actually much cheaper to buy a second rifle than some spare parts.
Though I've never seen one break ( I have seen broken ones) a firing pin would be good to have, the spring and that's about it.
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Don,
On that one I used the XS aperture/staff but now that I have a lathe with a collet holder you can bet I'll be making my own if I make anymore. I originally bought or was given an XS sight for a mauser but it requires you notch the charger hump. I thought that looked crude so I built my own base and sweated it on rather than D&T the bridge. Those apertures have real fine threads. Finding a tap will be hard. I looked far and wide but if I remember right it was darn near 72 tpi.
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If the the hole spacing is .500" then you can drill them anywhere as long as you plan on using two piece mounts for the scope. If you want a one piece then do yourself a favor and buy whichever mount you plan on using and let it be your guide.
96 Swede .250 Savage
in Finished Products & Misc.
Posted
You might consider selling that stock and getting a nice wood stock. Why may I ask did you opt for synthetic? Wood can be lighter, slimmer, and every bit as stable as plastic. proportion is one of the main reasons I do not like synthetics, I can always alter wood to get the proper fit & feel.
Looks good, a nice job!