z1r

Do a search here and on the gunsmiting forum for posts by DonMarkey. He has some great pics and a how to on modifying a standard guard.

The 4th option is to find 1909 bottom metal.

Oh, and welcome to the site!

"I was in the grocery store a few days ago with my wife and she commented on how expensive beef had gotten. "

 

True, but just like the ones that are benefiting from the government sponsored subsidies (the ethanol refiners) the rest of rural America is left out. But the Bush administration mandated more alternative fuels.

 

I am not against alternative fuels, but I am against alternative fools!

 

Jerry, yes ethanol can be made from other than corn, but so many people in this country believe (falsely) that there is enough corn for everything. Obviously those fools have never been a corn producer as I was for over 30 years, and my father for 40 years before that!

 

You can pay now, or pay later!

 

fritz

I have to agree.

I was in the grocery store a few days ago with my wife and she commented on how expensive beef had gotten. I expalined that it was partly due to the ethanol production. They're really pushing it here in CO.

What we really need is fuel efficient cars & trucks. Everyone buys a 250+ HP car when they only need 1/2 or 2/3's of that.

Thanks for all your help, Z. Just for s&g, we pulled the barrel, measured against an Argentina, took a couple thou off the tenon and screwed it in. It headspaced good so we shot it with the same loads that would bind up the other bolt. It shoots fine, bolt opens up easy and the head space didn't change. Whatever it is is in the front ring. Time to get back to more inspection and if that don't work, it's getting sent to your shop! We're either gonna learn alot or wave the white flag.

Thanks again, Ron

Well, if you can't get it to work, send it my way. I'll take care of you. Good luck!

-Mike

Congrats. I qualified back in Cali by shooting a couple NRA silhouette matches. I want a Garand too.

The types of holes don;t really matter, the ejectors are interchangable. Just make sure tha they are fromthe right series. (98's, 95-96, etc.) The main thinhg to look for is proper length.

The reason I've always ben told about the slot vs hole is that the slot was to cushion the blow of the ejector by allowing it to slide backward some. I've noticed that the slots were used more by the Germans and round holes by the Czechs.

Like I said, these things are hard to diagose without the action in front of you. There are a whole host of things that I look for automatically that just don't seem to come out when I have to type.

I don't know how much you've lapped the lugs but one of the ever present dangers is that if you remove enough material from the lugs the third lug may start to come into contact. Then, due to parts being interchanged, there is the chane that the third lug will contact even without lapping. This can and should be fixed.

When bedding a mauser you must be careful to assure that the receiver is bedded so that the receiver is not bent. Did you use screws when you bedded to tighten the action down?

It is normal for one of the lugs not to bear when you have the firng pin and trigger in. The sear will push up on the rear of the bolt causing it to tip. As soon as the pin is released the lug comes into battery though.

Inspect all the lug surfaces for small ridges, roughness, etc. Make sure the rear lug isn't contacting. I've had a few where it was.

Good luck.

Well, if I don't use something pre-made I will take a piece of flat stock roughly the width of the ramp i want, draw the rough shape, then procede to cut it out. Depending on how small it is, I'll contour one side to be the bottom where it fits on the receiver first before I get to cutting. Often I'll finish by first sweating the ramp onto the barrel then fixturing it barrel or barreled action in "V" blocks then cut the top so it is parallel.

Thanks.

I would check the forged handle. The receiver or the stock could be keeping it from closing properly or "locating" the bolt as you said. I've seen it more than once. A lot of times people will lap their lugs before altering the bolt handle so they are making good contact. Then they alter the handle and assume the lugs are still making proper contact when they go to fit & chamber the barrel.

Let us know how it works out.

Here is a rear peep sight I made. Lousey pics but they may help.

Here is the sightin its roughest form.

Then I radiused the edges.

First I machined a black of steel to fit the rear bridge, then machined a few pleasing contours to take away any sharp edges. Whether its a front sight or rear you must machine the bottom of the sight base to fit the contour of teh barrel. So, if your muzzle is .650 then machine the same radius into the bottom of the base. Of course, you have to acount for taper which is where the fitting comes into play.

Final product.

Mike McCabe - Licensed Firearms Manufacturer

Ok, did you weld on a new bolt handle? If so, did you notch the receiver? If so, does the notch by chance stop the rearward movement of the bolt. It is possibe, easy in fact, to not hav enough clearance in the notch so that the handle is actually arresting the rearward travel of the bolt and not the lugs. This will definitely lead to spring and can cause the symptoms you describe.

I usually chamber as you do except that if the distance from receiver ring to bolt face is .635" I chamber until the gage protrudes .633". That way when cinched up the bolt just closes on the go gage.

Generally speaking when you have low pressure load (light loads) and the primers back out its due to excess headspace. How did you check/set headspace? How did you chamber? Was it in the lathe or by hand on the receiver? Did you set headspace by taking measurements with a depth micrometer or just by closing the bolt on a gage?

Receivers can flex, especially mausers, but that is not likely the issue here. When you mention bolt lift I immediately think setback. Did you check for it? Usually what causes the hard to lift bolt is the fin or ridge left on the upper lug seat where the ejector slot is. This can also lead to false headspace readings.

You might try "whiting".

i think he means balance on the table with no visible strings

Lol, bubble gum.

Mighty fine rifle mr.z, how did ya get it to ballance like that? If I got a 06 barrel , what wouuld ya charge me to rethread it to k.kale Dave Just pm or email is ok.

I just try real hard to keep things in proportion. This stock was originally 3" longer and whould have looked really wierd with the 21.5" bbl.

email me at mccabeguns (at) yahoo.com and we'll discuss your barrelling needs.

Thanks.

Here is a .30-06 I built for my Dad on a K.Kale action wuth Rem 700 take of bbl.. It was one of my first. It shgots better than my 700 in .30-06 does.

I've always thought they looked a little fugly! But, as Jason says, FM has had good results. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Tony, If I'm not mistaken I've been able to post as a guest on the mauser forum before. Not on the gunsmithing forum though.

Interestingly, today I could not even view the site without first logging in. That will kill traffic to the site.

Nice score. I got mine a while back for $70 and it was all matching . Don't you just love it when you have a good day?

This is my hog/truck gun. Open sights I made and original bbl turned down. I use the rem 185's in it and it shoots like a dream.

Now, after what I said about not building an 8mm-06 you'll laugh when I tell you I am building an 8x60. Litterally right in the middle of the 8x57 and 8mm-06.

The 8mm-06 offers some improvement but not much. I wouldn't bother with it personally, even though it is a fine cartridge. But, to answer your question, yes, you could hand ream it if you wanted.

StraitShooter, what kinda velocities are you getting? Everyone I ever knew got maybe 100 fps max. Part of the reason I never bothered with one for myself.

Most often when I recontour the barrel I leave it the original length. Once or twice I've shortened them. I like the 23.6" length and think it offers the best comptomise betwwen easy handling and max performance. The 8x57 is no slouch.

Instead of cutting off the sights, why not do it the easy way and just use your propane torch to loosen up the soft solder?

How are you planning to remove the steps from the barrel?

I lengthened my mag box so I could seat the heavies out there and not loose powder room. With the 8x57 you can really seat the heavies out there with no loss of boiler room.

Well, I like it. I went with the std .338-06. No need to fuss with fireforming etc. It shoots the Hornady 225's that I have a ton of into tiny little groups. Doesn't leave anything to be desired.

Cock on Open kits are out there. Probably the best, and also most expensive, is the Ed Lapour set. It includes a new three position safety/shroud as well as the conversion pieces.

Me, I like the cock on close because it costs less and requires no added work. I'd rather put more money into a good barrel and live with the COC action. My 2 cents.

Vlad,

I prefer plaid, lol.

Yes, you are right, Carl Gustaf. You would know, they did not make any "sporters" did they? I was under the impression that all the actions were either Military or target rifles.

Tentman,

Welcome.

The Biesens have a some nice stocks however the actions he patterns for are limited. If he doesn;t have what yuou want then I might suggest this: if you can find a suitable pattern for a std 98, glass bed your action into it, then send the pattern off to be duplicated.

You might check with:

Ed Shulin

16511 Co. Rd. 75. Trinidad, CO 81082 USA

Voice: 1-719-846-2301

Hopefully he can get you a std stock to work with then depending on how closely you want the final stock to be inletted/finished you can shop around.