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I don't pretend to be a Swedish Mauser expert but so far as I know the only "commercial" sporters were made by Husqvarna. There were some local firms Vapen Falun for example, that made their own to market. As far as I know, the Carl Gustafs were military rifles. So, what you are seeing, without benefit of pictures mind you, is most likely a sporterized Swede. Kimber sporterized some 96's. All the Swedes were originally 6.5x55. Anything that operates at the same pressures would be acceptible for rebarrelling to.

Nice score. I especially lust after the carbine. Wish I had one, lol. Nice job!

Dave, I'm glad to hear all is going so much better for you and your wife. I wish my dad would have had such luck. He recently had to have his leg amputated. Then, to add insult to injury, they had to amputate it some more, this time above the knee. Still, he is alive and doing well.

That's great! Mine shoots so nicely that you'd never get me to part with it. Mine has an oversized chamber so I too have some reloading hassles. But, given its performance and all around good handling, etc, it is all worth it.

Absolutely! You wll perservere! I won't say good luck, cuz we know it's guts & determination that will get you through. Can't wait to see the pic with your Ranger insignia.

The long and short of it is, when you see a good deal you must act, quickly. If you are unsure what you are looking at then you must do the prudent thing and research. However, in doing so, you run the risk of losing the item to someone else. Better that than pay too much for something. Another similar will surface.

You should see the west side of Denver. Makes LA look down right clean. I had no idea. Much as I like it here LA did have some perks. I could find used machinery & equipment very easily and at really good prices. There were several shops and also many good Metal suppliers. here, there is only one metal supplier and he's all the way on the other side of town. It only took me 4 months to find him. the drivers here are generally better but they tailgate too much. Heck, I guess they drive like that in Texas too. I like your comment on Houston. I never liked Houston, I always figured it was to much like LA without the good parts.

Having moved from SoCal to Colorado the first thing that struck me was how long the snow/ice lasted once things really warmed up. I couldn't beieve we had 80 degree days and the snow was still hanging on.

Bob summed things up pretty well. I figure if you can do a proper job of contouring the bridge then why bother patterning it off of some other rifle. Shape it the way you want and make your own bases. I have three right now. One Rem, One Winchester and an Eddystone. Teh Eddystone is a poorly sported .30-06 with original barrel. truthfully, it just need a new stock and some work on the rear bridge to remove the ears, if I even go that far. It will get a new front sight ramp, polish, and bluing. It will remain an open sight .30-06. The winchester I will restore. It is an unissued barrelled action. The Rem will most likely become a .375 H&H with the full treatment. This will include mauser style bolt stop and integral peep on the rear bridge.

Oh, I know, I know all TOO well, lol. What is the asking price?

the answer to that of course is YES! How can you not buy a nice FN Mauser? Provided price is good.

I won;t go so far as to say ALL FN's were d&T'd for a receiver sight but a good many were. I have some and that is the way they came from the factory. There is nothing that would make this inferior to another factory action without the holes.

I can't seat the long 286's out long enough to hit the lands either. These things have long leades, hence the low presures. It's really odd to hear that your necks are so tight. One last thought, have you cleaned the hell out of the chamber? I would seriously think of doing a chamber cast to know for sure what the dimensions of the neck are. Worst case, if you are right, you just have it re-cut. Sorry to hear that you are having issues. Hope you find the fix quickly and painlessly. Of course, if you get sick of it, you can sell it to me.

Never had this problem. Most 9.3x57 chambers are generous. When you neck up the brass it becomes thinner so. I did run into one problem when reforming .30-06 brass. I set my trimmer wrong and the cases were slightly too long. Necking up 8x57 brass should also shorten it but check the case length to be sure. Are you crimping? Are the 8x57 cases fired or new? I can't believe you'd have to turn down the necks. It is contrary to everything I've seen and heard. A chamber cast is probably called for to see what the real issue is. Take some comfort in knowing that IF you have to turn the necks, you will have to do it once and the cases should last a long time.

Sounds like the plan. Most stocks are too long in the fore arm. I like 8"-9". So, if yours is the typical 11"+ then you can most likely slice off the tip and go without. Or, you can get a nice piece of ebony and add it after shortening. that's how I do mine when I have to use a semi inlet. Amazing how much better simply moving the cap back 1/4" can feel. There is only so much you can do but it all helps.

First thing I would do is lose the whiteline spacer & grip cap. That would allow you to first off, bring the rifle into the 21st century . More importantly, and all joking aside, it would allow you to open the grip more. What you have going looks pretty good so far but that grip cap forces the grip closed abruptly and it is also on the big side. At least that's how it looks in the pic but I am only seeing it from one angle. Next, slim the top of the sides of the stock to blend into the metal. Many folks simply leave this square and the result is a stock that has hard lines and appears too thick. That stock will look real nice when you are done. Here are some pics that may help. The first shows a Commercial FN as sold by Sears (JC Higgins) on top. Note how blocky the stock is and how thick. Compare to the commercial Brno stock on the bottom which has a slimmer more graceful profile. Notice how the Brno stock starts tapering about midway on the bottom metal and the FN doesn't start tapering until around the front guard screw. Those three inches really slim up the fore end. This next pic is of my .30-06. Excuse the poor pic but I think you can still see how the bottom edges are blended toward the bottom metal. It wears an issue Argentine guard but was inletted for another Argie guard that is fitted with a straddle floorplate that I'm currently fitting the plate to. Here's another pic of the .30-06. It's stock was patterned off of a German sporter stock.

You guys are making this much harder than needed. You know the maximum thread size, now using your machinery's handbook, calculate the minimum. be sure to use the formulas for 55 degree whitworth form.

Starrett makes the 55 degree gage. Brownells sells em. Nice job on the lathe.

Fritz, I believe this is the best post you've made to date. Well done.

Foreclosure rates at still at all time highs in the Denver area and CO. Primary reason here was the liberal lending practices. Most of these folks got into their houses with little or no money down. Then once their ARM's went up they found themselves in a position of not having enough to make a payment and worse in a position of having NO equity in their house due to falling property values. For these folks, it was easier to simply walk away. If I had a job at the moment I'd be buying some rental properties. These same people who can no longer afford to buy HAVE to rent.

I'm sorry to hear of Tye's passing. My condolences to his family & friends.

Hard to beat that deal. I've been wanting to try the .260, let us know how it works for you. That's an interesting statement when you are trying to fit together two different thread forms. The real issue is you are trying to put a square peg in a round hole. The allowable tolerances for a std thread would not be the same for a whitworth form thread. Most likely the way to solve this in this case is to lap like everyone has suggested. But this is the big reason that I do not use pre-threaded barrels unless the have the proper 55 degree thread form like Lothar Walther supplies.

I tried it, it does add color to the wood. Just don't die of a heart attack the first time you see the entire stock turn black. I have a customer who routinely does this and his look pretty good to me. He adds rottenstone along with the bone black.

Congrats! Welocme to the time of no sleep. Don't worry though, it gets better and is well worth it.

Not a dumb question at all. yes, the threads are different. The mauser uses 1.10" x 12 tpi whitworth threads (55 degree) while the A&B barrel is 1.10" x 12 tpi std threads (60 degree). Brownells sells a tap made to clean up teh receiver threada but I find it easier to just cut the proper threads on the barrel. Why the US manufacturers continue this practice is beyond me.