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Here is what I found on the TJ's general store site: 1300 barrels will fit the 1200 and 120. 1200 barrels fit only the 1200. 1300 Defenders accept only the 1300 Defender barrel. But I also found this: FITS: 120/1200/1300 - S/N Above 382,500. I believe the deciding factor is whether the gus was originally chambered for 2 3/4" shells or not. I believe if the chamber length is the same as on your 1300 it will fit but I make no promises.

A friend of mine who owns a gun shop locally recently installed one on his SKS. I thought it was pretty decent. I fired about 60 rounds through it and seemed to work well. I liked the picatinny rail.

What do you expect to shoot or run into? If little critters then of vourse it's hard to beat the 22lr. Might there be bears? If so, something big enough to dispatch it quickly. This is where a drilling would be handly. A 16 ga bbl, a large enough center fire bbl (7x57 up to 9.3x62 would do nicely), and a .22lr all in one. For sure I'd take my .22lr Single six. I like squirel.

I had to fix an 1849 colt clone that a freind gave me when someone gave him the real deal. I ordered a part from Dixie and with a little fitting I was back in business.

Which is yet another reason I harden mine as a matter of course. I D&T, surface grind, dehorn, true, and polish the receiver then send it off. That way I just don't have to worry. And while technically you needn't fuss with the exterior, I find that a hardened outer resists wear & tear better. A little less like to scratch, etc. the M48's I've found have a tendency to gall the barrel much more than any other action I've worked on. They seem to be sufficiently hard, but they are rough as cobs. A hard rough surface is just like a cutting bit and will quickly do a number on your barrel for sure.

I think Clemson summed it up pretty well. I'm not aware that hardening that surface adds apprecibly to strength thus the only possible reason I can see is to prevent galling of the surface when you tighten the barrel against it.

I've noticed that lately my mailbox is being flooded with mail concerning gas prices and illegal immigrants. To boycott oil companies or not; to provide amnesty to illegal immigrants or not, etc. Since I have become jaded to the various solutions proposed by the Republicans, Democrats, Sierra Club, ACLU, etc., I have elected to solve the problems as they affect me. My response solves both my gas and illegal immigrant problems........................ I have hired illegal immigrants to push my car. They're plentiful in Denver and cheaper than buying gas. Then I pay them in Pesos so they have to go home to spend it. Don't you love it when a plan comes together?

I think the time you spent reflecting on the situation was well worth it. You have identified several very important points. I have found that without failures one cannot learn. I have no doubt that you will soon be producing nice bolts. Hang in there, you are off to a good start.

One thread equals .083" so you still do not end up removing much metal. think of the reamer up to the shoulder as being sort of a pilot drill. As such, it removes the bulk o fthe material. the rest which makes up the body simply cleans it up. The further to the rear you go the less material that is left to remove.

How much deeper are you cutting? .050", .100", 1/4 thread, 1/2, 1 full thread? If you are just trimming the shoulders some then most likely less than .050". Due to the body taper there is very little to be removed from the sides. If you move the reamer in .050" deeper you will likely only make the chamber .002" wider near the shoulder but even if you only deepen the chamber by .002" you HAVE to remove that much material and all at the front. Hope that makes some sense.

I was driving to the office yesterday on the I-25, I looked over to my left and there was a woman in a brand new Mustang doing 65 miles per hour with her face up next to her rear view mirror putting on her eyeliner. I looked away for a couple seconds and when I looked back she was halfway over in my lane, still working on that makeup. As a man, I don't scare easily. But she scared me so much I dropped my electric shaver, which knocked the donut out of my other hand. In all the confusion of trying to straighten out the car using my knees against the steering wheel, it knocked my cell phone away from my ear which fell into the coffee between my legs, splashed and burned Big John and the Twins, ruined the damn phone, soaked my trousers, and disconnected an important call Damn women drivers!!

I don't believe the load is applied evenly. I think the first threads bears the most, and each subsequent thread bears less. Nor do I think extra threads provide that much a margin of safety but then again I'm no mechanical engineer. I do believe that in a sane chambering you will enjoy the heck out of it. My motto is why push the envelope when there are still a lot of so called "good" mausers out there to be had at good prices. Maybe that''s why I never became a test pilot? or was it because I had to wear glasses, lol. I think your plan is a good one.

In my humble opinion I think they are safe as-is. You won't catch me building a custom on one but for a shooter/collector they are fine. Before I became enlightened, I too returned one that I had bought thinking it to be unsafe. The 1954 marked ones are real nice IMO. FYI, we were taught that three threads bear 75% of the load and thus three is considered minimum. Do the match to see how many threads are in your scope base holes on the rear bridge. Most of these conversions have about 5 threads but as with all things Turk, that may vary.

If nothing else, you won't balk at the idea of paying someone to weld it for you. In a perfect world we'd all have plenty of time to learn everything we wanted. But in reality our time is limited and we need to prioritze how we spend our precious little free time. That's one of the main reasons I don't checker wood. I'd spend more time learning to do it to my satisfaction and loose more moeny in the process than I can make doing metal work. At least for now. I know with practice you could do the job you want. Have you looked into taking a (tig) welding class at the local JC? $135 would probably come close to covering the cost and you'd have access to the welder for eight weeks at least.

FC, try this: Address: 16511 Co. Rd. 75. Trinidad, CO 81082 USA Voice: 1-719-846-2301 If that ain't right let me know and I'll dig up his info in my contact list somewhere. unpacking sure sucks!

I wouldn't recommend annealing the root. It gets done to some extent when you weld the handle on, especially using OA. And annealing the root is likely to anneal the cocking cam. I doubt it is so much the carbon, because other steels that weld just fine have more carbon in them. Rather it is the other contaminents that may have been used in the pack hardening process.

Often times there is a good reason, often not. Where I think a lot of smiths screw up is in communicating the reasons for delays. Sometimes they are unavoidable. Also, the nature of the work sometimes does not permit working on only one gun at a time. FC, try Ed Shulin in Trinidad, CO. He has very fast turnaround times and is relatively inexpensive to boot. I've been thinking of sending him one of those Mesquite blanks you fixed me up with once things settle down a bit. I think the last stock he did for me took maybe all of four weeks from me sending him the pattern and blank until the finished producst turned up at my door. He did three for me that time. If it makes you feel better, I've been waiting almost two years for a project of mine to come back. Hell, now I'm just hoping to get the parts back, never mind them being completed.

Glad to hear everything has worked out so well!

While probably 95% of welding is done by following the same basic rules or guidelines , everyone develops their own way to weld. I absolutely agree with everything Clemson said but, for me, the Brownells Nickle Steel rods were the worst. I have since settled on another type. Yet, I know a long time gunsmith who uses nothing but coat hangers. One reason I hate the Brownells handles is that whenever I use them, I seem to get more voids than with any other handle. Yet, I have a colleauge that has no trouble whatsoever. That, and my customers don't generally request the Brownells. Tips #1 & #2 are absolute musts! One thing that make the Mauser so much harder to weld on is the contaminents added to the surface layer during the case hardening process. That is why one gent I know welds the new handle on AFTER he has the bolt body recarburised. It comes back cleaner and welds easier. I do the opposite just because I like knowing that every surface on the bolt is of proper hardness. I've welded plenty of handles onto bolts that were not rehardened and none were soft. But, my preference is to weld first then reharden. Proper heat control is a must. You can see that Clemson's weldor has mastered that.

I met a guy once at the range with the ugliest looking sporter mauser I've ever seen. I assume it was an isreali. It was a .308, he told me he took the barrel off, set the shoulder back and faced off the barrel to set the headspace at minimum just like I do. Then he hogged out the barrel channel, drilled & tapped the receiver and installed a new handle. From two benches over I could see the voids from the weld. That thing would shoot 1" groups at 200 yards with the old Weaver 3x9 he had on it. That was using wolf ammo, the only kind he said the rifle really liked. My Chilean 1912-61 also swalled the gage. I set it back and that darn thing shoots tiny groups with the issue sights. Just some inspiration to invest the 1/2 hour needed to remove the barrel, set it back, reinstall, and realign the sights. Give or take two days, lol. Sounds like yours got a late war bolt.

Clemson, This series you put together will truely help out those wanting to try this for the first time. Wish I had the time to document my work. Super job!

She's a beauty! Just like the one I have. FYI, since mine had a slight crack at the tang I also put a dab of bedding compound at the rear where the pillar normally is. A couple of hundred rounds later and all is still dandy. A friend emailed me tonight with the whereabouts of another just like ours. Sorry, I had to post just one more pic of mine. Notice that the lower barreled action, a later model, does not have the fore end screw. Here is a pic of that bottom action with the fajen Mannlicher style stock it is going into. Another later model I have also has a bit of a schnabel on the end. Something I really like. But I don't like the barrel contour as much. Again, this one also doesn't have the fore end screw. I think you did very well. Congrats and thanks for sharing!

He said he had a K.Kale. ALL K.Kale's have the extension to retain the handguard and liek racepres said, once removed they are the same length as any other standard 98. Well, unless you go crazy removing the extension..

I'd suspect that your problem has more to do with using brass that has been fired in another chamber. Just yesterday I was resizing some .223 brass and tried some range pick ups from a friends rifle. Even using a small base die I wasn't able to resize his brass enough to chamber in mine (either of them). Yet, when I neck size brass fired in these guns it chambers without effort. I have never run into a situation where a minimum chamber (lengthwise) has caused hard extraction. It can cause hard insertion especially if your brass is long but once the bolt has closed the shoulder is repositioned and the brass comes out easily enough.

Yes, the K.Kale is standard length 98 just like the K98, vz24, and commercial versions. I don't much like synthetics but the B&C feels good to me.