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Well said Don, if you can single point internal threads then surely cutting threads on the barrel shank will be a simple task.

There is already an 8mm-.300 win mag. I believe it was called the 323 Hollis. But, why mess with a wildcat when you can build an 8x68S? Factory ammo and brass, and dies are less. If you had something chambered for a RUM it would be cool to have an 8mm Rum for sure but that would be harder to make work on a Mauser action.

Flaco, How's the target rifle coming? Another 6.5x55 isn't it?

The FN & MK X can usually be treated as the same. The main difference between the commercials & military stocks is the triggerguards. The commercials tend to be shorter at the front becuase they don't have locking screws. Having been in their shop numerous times I can say that I've never noticed a difference in the inletting. It all appears to be short so you can fit a longer guard if needed.

This rifle only weighs 7 1/4 lbs scoped. It sports a 25" Shilen #1 and a light weight walnut stock. The key is the stock. Keep it trim and thin like the Germans did.

The proof as they say is in the pudding. I have chambered in various ways. Often due to necessity. As long as the results are good & consistent then I don;t think it matters.

Hmm, I've had inletting black all over my stocks and never bothered using any type of cleaning solution ont hem. I just finish sand it and apply finish then wet sand. Maybe because I tend to leave my stocks a little over size until the inletting is done then I sand to get the proper wood to metal fit.

It is like this reamer holder: http://www.midwayusa.com/mediasvr.dll/high...leitemid=542929 I've used it and it is ok, pretty good really but can be grabby. I use a commercial floating reamer holder that allows for axial as well angular alignment. Most only compensate for one or the other.

Back then they used to pack the bolts in wet asbestos to control heat. Now we have better heat control pastes. AO can work if you are good enough to control heat or have the parts heat treated afterward. Problem is, very few practitioners are that good any more. One oft overlooked benefit of AO is that you can use the torch to reharden the critical surfaces after welding.

Well gents, I don't really have any setup pics and my jigs are all boxed up. But, each setup varies according to the desired outcome. I use paper cutouts (templates) that help me maintatin the proper relationship between parts. Mainly for gaging bolt angle using a particular handle. I do use the mill for removing metal after welding. It helps keep things square especially when you are trying to get things done quickly and you have a lot of excess weld to remove. Do you need a mill, no and I've done many without. But it definitely helps when you are trying to move things along quickly. But final shaping is always done with a file(s). I see a lot of handles that have excellent welds but the surface finish along the handle shows that the crafter did not pay much attention to shaping & blending. The mechanics of proper welding & angle are easy enough. But leaving a finish where the surface is even and not wavey and, where the angles that need to be square are, is what seperates a good job from an ok job.

kool, Good luck and welcome. Post pics when you're done and don't be afraid to ask questions. Everyone here is very helpful and all realize that there is more than one way to skin a kat!

I cut the shank so it is .002" longer than the distance from the face of the receiver to inner "c" ring. That way when tightened the outer shoulder will just contact the receiver face.

"If you applied for an FFL be extra nice and polite to neighbors. Chances are good they will be interviewed." Dang, I wish you would have told me that sooner, lol. FC, I just got back from CA Sunday. I had to go back to supervise the move and drive the old Texas truck and the family out here. I've been here since late January and love it. Not much chance to get too familiar but so far so good. The kids had a blast in what little snow (ice really) remains. Now with the boss here we can turn our attention to finding a house (preferably with no neighbors to interview). I can't wait to get the shop set up again and get into business. I heard about the local dynamite shoot, sounds like too much fun. Yup, I'm loving life. Thanks God!

Assuming a squzre breech then a machinist square is about the easiest way. Also, if the chamber area is parallel an indicator works well too.

I think most factory bolt guns will print 1.5 moa with the right load. Some will do better, others worse. My Ruger M77 Mk II synthetic in 223 will shoot 5/8" groups with cheap QWinchester white box ammo. $11 for 40 rds at wal mart. My rem 700 .30-06 never managed better than 1.5 moa even with handloads. That said, I knew an old timer with a Winchester 92 in .44-40 that had killed over 300 head of deer. When I shot it, the best I could manage was about a 4" group. Most were about 5". He said that was better than he'd ever managed.

Now that I live in CO, a relatively free state, I look forward to assaulting some prarie dogs with my rifles. Heck, even the new, to me, AR15 I inherited. I've personally never had much use for semi automatic rifles of most kind, except for the ubiquitous semi auto .22 LR. I prefer single shots, lever guns & bolt actions. But one thing that I know for sure is that united we stand, divided we will fall! Besides, it would be a pretty dull place if we all thought alike.

Yup. I remember buying them for $45 each on sale and $59 regular. The vz24's went on sale for $55 and were regularly $69. The expensive one was the 98/22 which was regularly $79 and went on sale for $69 although I did once get a 98/22 for $49. It was marked by Century as being a Turk M38. I didn;t remember how many I still had assembled until I moved. It's good to see the back of the safe once in a while, lol.

There is no easy fix that in the end won't look like an easy fix. Neat project. I have all the parts assembled for such a project. Got the Brno M21 stock & barrel and similar bow. Mine will one day become an 8x60S.

Very nicely done.

Yes, machining off the crest will remove whatever case hardening was applied to the exterior of the receievr ring but, that is not where it really matters. You have to understand that depending on when the mauser was made, different methods of case hardeniig where used. The earliest used pack hardening and material was litterally only packed onto the surfaces that were critical like the lug seats, and various camming surfaces. These tended to be very soft on the outside but harder inside where needed. Later methods tended to apply the case more evenly even to the exterior. Not necessarily because it added strength but because it was faster and easier. So, you don't have to have the actioned hardened just because you remove the crest. But it wouldn't hurt either and you know afterward that the seats and bolt lugs will be properly hardened.

Grinding a crest (if done correctly) is not cause for heat treating. If the interior (locking lug seat) are hard enough then it matters not if you grind on the outside. If they are removing the charger hump then you should take a long the bases you intend to use so that the surafces can be ground so that the bases are at the same height. I lean toward taking more off the front than the rear when tryingto eventhings out because the bolt guide slot is fairly thin and the base screw can strip if you take too much off.

Where does one get one of these?

Don, This has been a great series. Great work!

Ed Shulin now lives a couple hours from me, or rathar I now live a few hours from him. He's turned a few blanks for me and cost and turn around have been cheap and fast. It is however a rough turn on the exterior. He and his wife are two of the nicest folks you would want to deal with. He is easy to work with and flexible.

See, I knew there was a good reason. How to hold the reamer for chambering in general or for the last few thou?