z1r

A gunsmith buddy and I were just talking about this very subject tonight and both agreed that for bolt guns we'd finish in a lathe and that for gas guns like the Garand a pull through reamer would be prefered. I have to say that at this point this is purely conjecture on my part because, believe it or not, I've never done a garand. I'm waiting to get my first. We were talking and agreed that the pull through reamers have any torsional loads limited by the pilot since they are applied to the front and since limited by the bore are very small indeed. While a standard reamer has any loads applied at the rear where the pilot cannot limit the amount of sideways force. Granted, for the most part, the error induced will likely be small but why subject yourself to that when you can limit it in the lathe. Anyway, again, a nice gun Ken and don't let the German in me detract from a job well done.

The city essentially drove the last gunshop out of business about 7 or 8 years ago just around the time I was leaving. A real shame too because it was one of the best I have EVER seen, the old Gun Exchange. A visit to Coit tower one evening is in order. Nice views. Good eats in the area too. I think a walk accross the Golden Gate bridge is a cool thing.

I just can't get into that. Why bother with a lathe if you're gonna switch to a method that allows error? Just my thoughts. Very nice rifle! Bet it feels real good to have it finished up.

Correct, unless you are sitting in front of the TV everynite taking it apart it should remain tight for a while. teh two screws I mentioned will push against the receiver plate and in effect tighten the threads, no clamps needed. here's a pic. It also shows the central retracting locator pin that keeps things from turning.

The cure for compensating for wear is a plate where the barrel meets reeiver that has a couiple of screws that will cinch things back up again.

Mine were .299" and .2995".

Yugo bolts will work but they are missing the guide nubs (protrusions) on either side of the extractor slot. You could safety breech your turks then if you wanted.

Great report. But, am I missing something? 140 grains .311's? What caliber is this? 7x57?

Tinker is right that they are NOT vz24's, those were called 24/52's. And they are intermediate length. BUT, they are not like Turk 1903's except for bolt length. The Turk 1903 is an oddball that is standard length in action size but intermediate in capacity (mag lenth) and bolt. Not trying to pick nits here, just add a little something. Anyway, the 24/47's are generally very decent actions. To be prefered over the M48.

I use mine with 165 grain lead flatnoses. Very accurate. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably shorten the barrel to 20" maybe 22". For the cast bullet silhouette I use it for velocity isn;t that important.

Ah, Ok Thanks!

Is this some kind of sale cuz I get ahigher pric?. I just got a 9.3x62 and could use some cheap practice ammo. Thx!

Best suggestion I've heard in a long time. Good luck tomorrow. Oh, and it llooks good. I have one that will be a project too. I was going to rebarel but thought instead, I'll load up 180's at 2400 and call it a day. A redifeld receiver sight and new stock and we are good to go. Now, if I only had the time and equipment, lol.

What gives? The brass (belt) is on the small side. This has long been a criticism of belted magnums. The belts vary greatly in size. This also illustrates why brass is not always (almost never) a good tool to use as a headspace gage. You can do what you are trying provided you get a lifetime supply of the same brass (lot) and ONLY use it. Problem is (not in this case since its a wildcat) what if you want to use factory ammo that has a thicker belt?

$50 is a smokin deal..

If the gun shoots good it's REAL easy to get used to COC. Like the Husky M46's. Yeah, I too suffer from lack of conveyence ability, at least in written form. Bilurey on the other hand is a poet and has a real gift for writing technical descriptions thayt are both clear & concise and fun to read. Half the time I come accross sounding like I don't know what I'm talking about, the other half, I sound like I don't know what the hell I'm talking about.

The price of success. That really sux that stuff like that goes on! Really! Tony, you've done a great job!

More spammers means the site is more visible. Otherwise they wouldn't come as often.

The four screws are normal for that guard. Some had locking screws. In fact, one of my custom guild guns has the locking screws still. The hard to close bolt on your 96 is also normal, that's the nature of the beast on cock on close actions. Lighting the spring could lead to ignition problems. If it's a Turk then it's a Larage ring mauser with small ring shank. Simply put, a standard 98 except that instead of being threaded for 1.100"x12 tpi barrels it is threaded to accept 0.980"x12 tpi barrels. The front ring on yours measures approx 1.400" while a true small ring will measure closer to 1.3"

Naw, good old copper jacketed HP's. Of course I worked up to the loads rather than just substituting bullets. But yes they are touchy but oh so fun. My favorite is dragging out the N frame. Most folks expect a single action when you mention .44-40.

I've spent the better part of the last week selling off all my old equipment, old motorcyles, etc. Anything that I don't need to take to CO, Man, it's been harder than a real day job. Today I sold my trusty Lathe and Mill. It was tough to see them go, as they had produced many a fine firearm. But, the cost of transporting them made it impossible to hang onto them.. In the spring I'll have all new equipment anyway but, it will be hard to get by the next few months without access to my machines. Good news along that front is that I already have several customers lined up waiting for me to get my FFL. I have several full custom job requests. Soup to nuts, build me a rifle from a bare milsurp action. It don't get no better than that. Now, if the snow will just let up lomg enough for me to move my other lathe & surface grinder I'll be set! Thanks for listening.

Do a search here. We covered this topic in very good detail not long ago. I believe it is the first topic in one of the archives. What kind of problem would notching the receiver cause? Here it is. the link is in that thread. Madjack is right about using the extrcator slot as a guide but it does not tell about proper fore and aft clearance for the handle. Which sounds like it may be your problem or one of them anyway. http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=3357

My S&W N frame has a .426" bore but cylinders are large enough to chamber rounds loaded with .430" bullets. Best thing I found for the .44-40 was to use the LEE factory crimp die. This bass is thin and a roll crimp can buckle the cases.

Did you notch the receiver? If so be sure to check it. It is supspicious that the bolt moves forward when you close it. Check to see that the bolt is not hitting the receiver notch and being moved forward.

The .45-70 rim is like .605" and the MN is more like .570" you will need to open the bolt face up some. i would think a .375 MN would be kool. The Finns neck the case up to .366" or 9.3mm.