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LW can thread for whatever action you have, it will just cost extra. Doesn't everything?

LW makes a darn nice Article 720 barrel in 6.5x55. 23.6" and SWEET. Long chambered. Only $190.

Agreed, the loads listed for +P are higher pressure. But, when the +P first came out they used thicker brass, the idea being to add a safety margin when/if used in old actions. Along the way that may have changed. I believe Winchester only makes the +P brass now (not sure on that though). Also agree that the extra 2K of pressure does NOT need special brass. Just like the .38 special +P. Same brass different head stamp.

Lol, I can cut a test bar that is perfectly straight. But, if I put centers in and run the tail stock up to the center in the headstock they will not be aligned. Wear in the ways. So the tail stock is offset. Yes, you can try the center test to get close then use an indicator to get setup.

I think the .416 Rem makes more sense for Remington since their action will easily fit the round. If they'd been using the Zastava actions instead the outcome might have been different.

The +P brass is thicker. Thus, you must reduce powder charges and work back up. If you have a modern action there is no need for the +P brass unless maybe you have an older weaker action and a newer one that you reload for too.

If the 8x40's won't correct the problem then what I would do is countersink the holes and weld them up using a spiral motion starting at the bottom. The ring is thick enough that it isn't required that you weld up the entine hole, just 75% or more. The rear bridge is so thin that you MUST fill the entire hole in order for the new hole to have sufficient threads. For the rear bridge I do the same but uise brass pieces that have the size & radius as the guide rib slot on teh bridge. Yes, sometimes the weld will air harden. A good bit is required or spot annealing.

Not to be a jerk, but I believe you mean floating reamer holders? I have used two types but have three. I have use the Bald Eagle I believe it's called. I liked it. Clark made his own. I also have a commercial floating reamer holder. It doesn't just move side to side but also axially. Very expensive. I have a Dave Manson holder that I just got but have never used. nothing beats proper setup.. Get your lathe dialed in and you won;t need one. Now that I have a new lathe I will dispense with the floating reamer holders. Once I get it doaled in of coarse. On my old lathe I HAD to use one.

If you are forming them it matters not which case you use. ECEPT, you'd better be prepared to use an intermediate sizer. Expanding from .308 to .416 MAY cause some split necks. I thought you meant creating a 416 using the 300 winnie's short neck. Best bras sto use is virgin 458 but 338 is cheaper and more abundant. If you can get 300 winnie cheap enough then some case loss can be tolerated. keep us posted.

Realistically, I don't think you can go wrong with any you mentioned. I have barrels by all and they all seem to be equally good shooters. I like Douglas because at Brownells they are cheapest. But, they require more work to get the exterior finsih smooth. Shilen is pretty smooth and in general the contours seem to be lighter than a Douglas. That can sometimes be important. LW has excellent finish interior and exterior. I like the LW if I want a prethreaded long chambered barrel. The price is incredible if what they offer suits you needs. Their blanks are pricer than the other two. I have 4 LW barrels waiting to be mated to receivers, Two 9.3x62's, an 8x68S, and a 6.5x55. I really like LW for those oddball calibers becuase they can't be beat for the $$ and shoot like a house a fire. My next will be a 9.3x57 threaded for a small ring 98 (mexican). If it is a caliber I have the reamer for then I switch between Douglas & Shilen depending on weight and balance. Like I say, in my opinion, you can't go wrong with any, and they all have their strong points. What caliber & profile are you thinking of?

Actually, a longer neck on the Taylor really helps a lot with feeding. A buddy had Tom Burgess make him one and Tom demonstrated how a longer neck kept the bullet pointed where it needed to be for 100% reliablility. In a bear gun reliability is far more important than 50 fps. Sounds like a great project.

Strait shooter, post some opics of your 8mm-06 in the smithing forum. There are many knowledgable folks here that like to help others get as much enjoyment out of teh hobby as possible. I started life as a Mechanic in 82 also, then I went the accouting route, then into publishing. I'll be getting my shop set up in the next few months and will finally get to hang my shingle that says, "Gunsmith". It's good to have acces to the proper tools, makes things easier. Welcome and don't be shy in asking. Unlike other forums people here don't typically like to argue much and like to adhere to the rule that there is no such thing as a stupid question.

How far off are they? Often the easier fix is to mill new holes for 8x40 screws.

It ain't goin anywhere but from time to time things do slow down. One thing to consider is that since the influx of surplus mausers has slowed so too will traffic on the mauser and or smithing forum. But, there will always be traffic there.

bill, send me pics. I'll probably take it. You can hang on until I get settled. Thanks, mike

Unless you already have an 8x63 you are trying to feed, I'd take a look at the 8x64.

Great suggestion TY!

Glad to help. remember, if it shoots left bend the sight left. Slowly, a little at a time. My '51 navies love the ox-yoke greased pads. Both of them shoot spot on but I suspect it was simply because I was luckier than heck. I love the pair though. I'd planned on shooting them in the traditional catagory in SASS. But life intervened, lol. Good luck.

Karl,, maybe try varying the load first. Are you using grease to seal the chamber or a veggie wad? Small changes like this or charge weight can affect point of impact. Something to try before adding adj sights. Also, if I remember right, wasn;t the revolver shooting four inches to the left or right? The front sight sticks up enough that you can gently bend it to correct for this. if I were to install adj sight I would opt for a dovetailed front to correct for windage. That wouldn't dramtically change the lines of the gun. Just a thought or two.

Kyle, Look here.

madjack, you are right that Kyle didn't mention a magnum chambering. I must have inferred that from his other post where he was discussing building a magnum with Rem take off barrels. It's nice that Krieghoff is building doubles in magnum chamberings but then again they are doubles and not drillings, aren't they. Again, apples and oranges. More importantly, the actions and thus barrels were built around the chamberings. The 9.3x74R is no slouch but, it is also no magnum, at least not in terms of it's operating pressure. Also, I guarantee that the barrels on those magnum doubles are not as thin as you would have everyone believe. rememberthat on a drilling, typically two of those barrels are shotguns barrels. The rifle barrel is thicker.

yes, a milsurp cocking piece will fit the shroud. Where you can run into problem sis using a milsurp cocking piece on a commercial bolt. Some will not function.

Advice will always be free, labor however, well......

Holy crap Madjack, You jump all over me for suggesting .003" clearance between the extractor and breech saying it is too little and then you go and make a statement like this? Yes, cutting the old shank off and then cutting a new one for your particular action is old hat. But, you must make sure that you end up with adequate thickness especially in the chamber area because this is where pressures are greatest. Where you need to be careful, especially with the much wider magnum cases, is where the taper starts. The transition can be rather quick so just make sure you have enough thickness left. Drillings operate at much lower pressure than a "magnum" does. Please show me one drilling chambered in a magnum cartridge.

Thanks all, I look forward to using it next, uh, this year in Colorado. Despite a set back or two I am very pleased with the way it turned out. I wish could say I checkered it but I did not. No time for that yet despite having all the tools. If you are interested, PM me and I can give you the names of a few good checkerers. Can't wait to get moved and settled in so I can finish this .30-06. I just need to fit the new grip cap, blue the metal, and make the scopemounts. Right now it weighs in at 6.5 lbs. Not bad for a vz25 action and 25" bbl. A good bit lighter than the .338-06. I reckon that it will come in at just under 7.5 lbs scoped.