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Kyle, Polishing the chamber really has nothing to do with the smoothness of the action. Well, extraction can be affected but that is somewhat different. Assuming you mean the action so that the bolt moves fore and aft like butter then it is best done with stones. On Mauser I only do this when I have them heat treated. There are many other things that contribute to the smooth operation of the bolt like the extractor fit, the extractor collar fit and follower spring tension too. Check them all. But do not just slather on valve lapping compound and work the bolt a couple hundered times like I've seen folks suggest. Assuming you actually mean the chamber that is best done when the barrel is off, chucked ina lathe, with the appropriate abrasive paper, usually no finer than 400 grit.

OK, so here's some pics. In this pic you can see the Husky M46 9.3x57 I acquired last year on top and on bottom is the 8x57 Commercial Husky. If you remember, the 8x57 was the one that came with the stock broken. It's barrel contour exactly matched that of the new 9.3x57 I just bought so I put the barreled action into that stock. Remember, the new 9.3x57 is destined to become full stocked in the mannlicher style. In this pic you can see my old M46 with the new 9.3x57 barreled action after I cut the barrel to 19.6", recrowned, and reinstalled the sights. And here you see the shortend Barreled aaction and the Fajen stock it will be fitted to. I had to make a new rear scope base that would properly clear the charger hump yet still seat properly on the bridge. With a set of Leupold QW style quick release rings the bolt handle will even clear a scope. I may get a new swede bolt and weld on a proper handle later. But, for now the idea is to get it running with as little effort & expense as possible.

Ok, here's the pics of the .338-06 now that it has been checkered. Only thing left to do is blue the shroud later this year. The original FN style safety I had proved to be soft. I changed the shroud to a true FN left side safety. So it's still in the white. It's a great shooting rifle capable of putting Hornady 225's into 1.5" groups at 200 yds. Which, for me, is stellar. And a close up of the checkering.

What I don't understand is we only get to shoot once yet the cops can empty their clips and reload and fire some more???

Nominal is actually longer .735" or .745" but I never go by that. Measure to the point that is closest to the front fing, then subtract .005" from that for clearance. .002" of that will be taken up by crush and you will have approx .003" clearance. If your action heats up enough to cause .012" expansion you got problems.

Nominally .675 I believe. Allow clearance for the extractor.

Here, here! A happy, HEALTHY New Year to us all!

Lookin good.

Jerry, if I can do it, you can! I think I have some pdf copies of some lathe instruction books. Biggest thing is to get a lathe, it's all downhill from there. You do that and there are tons of folks here to answer questions you may have.

With your own lathe you can make your own. That's step one in gunsmithing school. Start by making the tools. they teach you all the crucial steps needed.

Here is one a few $$ cheaper because shipping is included. http://www.grafs.com/product/76160 I have one of these and they are great.

The key to turing out the steps is to taper in sections and carefully blend them. I've done it so that the muzzle diameter never decreases, so I could use the issue front site or, I've tapered them to a very lightweight .550" muzzle diameter. I did one for Jason like that. I'm all for light weight rifles but not muzzle brakes. I honestly can't see the need on a 7x57 and in fact since it is in effect just dead weight and adds length I really can't see it. But, that is just my opinion.

Clark, Yeah, I like recycling. I think of sporterizing as the ultimate in, "swords into plowshares." I also like the idea of saving these fantastic creations from the smelter which I tend to think they would end up in were it not for folks like those on this board. Whatever happened to your shortened mausers? Please start a thread with some pics as those were really neat.

All the mauser rear sight bases are sleeves that are soft soldered on. Since this is a K98, remove the screw at the rear. On all others, remove the screw at front.

The hornady 205 grain bullet is more than adequate. Mine is staying ai-is with the issue barrel even. I'm just removing the rear sight band and installing a folding leaf.

Oh, I'll try to make this as interesting as possible. Why in the hell would you want to do this? $250 for the tooling? To use on a K.Kale receiver??????? That's like putting 22" wheels on a Pinto. Even single pointing which would be the prefered method, at least by me, requires a fixture to hold the receiver in. Ok, enough of that. Carzngunz is right about threading backward. That way you start the bit right up against the shoulder and work out. First thing to do is the math to see if the 60 degree Rem 700 thread for example will work once you've cleaned up the threads on the .980"x 12tpi 55 degree whitworth receiver. Remember the receiver threads will be deeper than the .980" the barrel measures. Once cleaned up is there enough metal left to meet the minor diameter requirements? If so, all is a go. Of course, remember that since you are making your own threads,you can use whatever threading you want. Instead of 1.06"x16 you can go to 1.06x20, etc. The clearance cut is of not importance here because you are not thinning the receiver thickness from outside to in. So, the clearance cut depth will never change. the only practical application I can see for doing this is to use a prethreaded magnum caliber barrel in a K.Kale to avoid the thin chamber walls that occur when chambering a magnum cartridge in the .980"x12 tpi shank that the actions comes with. That's a helluva lot of work and money for the tooling when you can still buy good large ring receivers for not much more. Will it work, yes. Is it worth it, only you can say. How's that? Controversial enough? Lol.

Bill, Wow, yes it would. Let's talk. Thanks, Mike

yeah, that makes sense.

Kyle, here is a cheap stock & 300 WM barrel combo. Combo

As long as it does what you want then you did good! Enjoy the learning process and don't be afraid to ask questions here if you need help. There are lots of skilled operators waiting to help.

I use 5/16 for threading. I like to grind teh bit so that the point is offset way to the left. S oI can get real close to the shoulder. I have to grind much less off the right side on a 5/16 than I would a larger bit. Congrats on the buy!

That is the question of the day. Well put Bob.

All settled then, Don will have to pass on the addy to me or I won't finish his bolt. Sorry Jim, but you can't expect Don to hold out when I'm blackmailing him. :-)

Kyle, you do not have to have tried something yourself to know it ain't a good idea. I once saw a friend set himself on fire. I didn't have to do it myself to know it was not a good idea. So, you want a .300 win mag? Well, buy the 30 caliber barrel blank and rent a reamer, you would have to get a reamer anyway even with your bushing plan. Here's a cheap blank, $79 add a reamer for $35. Not bad. Barrel Blank Or, try ER shaw, you can get a mauser barrel long chambered in .300 Win Mag for a mere $135. By the time you get a take off barrel, make the bushing, thread it, rent the reamer to set headspace with, you will not save much. And, a long chambered barrel is much easier to install. But, if you are insistent on making a bushing, have at it.

Kyle, Ford built the pinto. Just because they did it didn't mean it was a good idea. If you don't want to spend a lot on a gun get a nice Stevens 200. It will cost you tons less than building a Mauser of questionable quality. Re-read that post, you will see that there are many who don't condone that practice. If you have access to all the machinery you say then surely it would be just as easy if not easier for you to get a proper barrel, even an adams & bennet and install it.