z1r

http://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/ Sights are easliy soldered with a propane torch. When you locate some we'll be here to talk you through. Look at their misc link and take a look at the sweat on base. Couple that with the two leaf folding sight and it would be very similar in function to that used on the Brno commercials.

Most likely, and the sights match the commercial mauser sights I have. The rear base looks like it would fit perfectly in that rectangle. An NECG sight might be just the ticket. That should build up into a nice light weight sporter.

hell, they had about a dozen for sale on ebay or gunbroker just last week. I never dealt with them but they always struck me as fly-by-night.

best bet is to use the bolt that came with receiver assuming it matches or has been fired in it for some time. it will be well mated to the lug seats. Personally, I don't lap lugs on mausers unless I have them carburised afterward.

If you have setback and correct it you need to have the receiver & bolt heat treated by a mauser expert.

If you're going to rechamber then it matters not what the current headspace is. What does matter is whether setback is present. When you pull the barrel, inspect the lug seats for pocketing.

It could be. A pic of the entire thing might help. Don't forget that between the wars, many spare parts were repurposed into commercial sporters. This would include military barrels that were recontoured. that might explain the taper then straight section on the barrel. that is about the only way to convert a milsurp barrel unless you want a muzzle diameter of less than .550". The Brno sporters have a barrel that is similar. It is apparent that they used the military tooling and modified it slighty for sporting use.

Jim, The calm cool way you are trying to deal with this lousey situation is an inspriation to us all. And, a reminder to us all that things, no matter how bad they seem, could always be worse. I admire your "making lemonade out of lemons" approach to this disaster. I have every confidence that 6 months from now you will be far better off than you were just two weeks ago!

Clemson, Here is the fixture I used to use and still do use for the bulk of the charger hump removal. You bolt the receiver to the fixture and them mill the top of the hump. Then, put the fixture in the vise at an angle, to mill the 30 degree flat on one side of the bridge. Then loosen and turn the action 180 degrees and retighten it to the fixture to mill the other flat. That gets rid of most of the excess. I'm too lazy to tilt the head though it will certainly do the job, I just hate having to dial it back in. then I would screw the mandrel in the reciver and put it in this fixture I made: I would make a pass with the mill, loosen the set screws & rotate the action a smidge, retighten, mill & repeat. On the rear bridge if you use the first fixture to get the flats at the right angle you can alugn the endmill to them, then rotate to make the bridge crest round and stop when you reach the opposite flat. Now, I use an indexing head and tailstock. I get precise 1 degree increments but the old setup works just about as well and costs a lot less. Here's one of those that I'm stoning. Az, My wife was rolling on the floor when she read "patient". I'm far from it, but my saving grace is that I'm a kraut and thus a perfectionist. Thus I'm too stubborn to stop even when I want to, lol. I passed on the TX land for now. Since I'm not sure where my job search may take me, I figured it best. If I move to CO I wouldn't be able to take advantage of the property so I may as well wait and see first. Believe me, it was hard to walk away from...wimper.

Man Jim, That's wonderful news. Just a reminder to never underestimate the power of prayer!

Thanks Bill & DT. For scoped rifles I remove the humps because you can't utilize the charher slots with a scope in the way. Unless off course, like Bilurey, you have lots of neat G&H sidemounts on hand. The mannlicher I'm making is an open sight only rifle and will retain that wonderfully high charger hump. I have to admit that it pained me greatly to remove them from the other two receivers. I have one more that I will also keep the charger hump on. That short fat round oughtta look really neat in the stipper clip securely inserted into the charger guide.

With the beginning of WW-I the annoying habit of front half of receiver & barrel departing the rear got some attention, and both Prussian Imperial arsenals- Erfurt and Danzig, slowly reduced the clearance, finally getting a wheel cutter in there so as to reduce the clearance diameter. These also had attention given to a narrower Carbon range. Near the end they seem to run at a minimum of 30 rather than 27. When the Poles made a run of them they had all the info available and these are much better for usage. The Turks eliminated the wheel cutter, and the cut is full diameter as for the large thread. This results in a receiver thickness over the top and down the sides that is about .100 thick. It was common practice for the unit armoers to check these rifles in the field via a gage and remove them from service when the measurements indicated stretching.

Good job. Looks like you need a bigger (LONGER) wall.

Very Nice.

Sadly, I imagine that would be true!

Ken, I use a 1/2" it is just about perfect for the flats on the rear. Get carbide. Removal of material from the bridge won't in and of itself require heat treating. But, like 724wd said, I get all mine done just for grins. :-) If you are getting that jig & stone then use a bench grinder to remove most of the hump. Until I built this latest fixture I used a homemade fixture like the one Brownells sells and a mandrel.

Yeah, and a Merry X-Mas to you too.

Thought I'd share some pics of some 1903 turks I'm working on. This one will retain the charger hump. It will be built into a Mannlicher style full length stock in Cal. .338 federal. It has been mostly polished at this point on the exterior while the interior has been completely polished. I plan on making up two bolts for it; one will be a spoon handle while the other will be an Oberndorf style handle. I will fit them up so they both headspace the same. The two that had the charger humps remove were surface ground yesterday and are in need of polishing still. Here's a pic on the mill. And here is a close up of the rear bridge. A few minutes with the stone and the milling marks and remainder of the numbers will be gone. This one will be a 6.5x55 with heavy target barrel. It had considerable pitting on the front ring, all of it gone now. You can see some back by the rear bridge next to the handle. Normally I would have tigged that up but it's a target rifle in plastic stock so why bother. The handle was a special request, I'm just checking it for fit in my receiver. It utilizes the original vz24 style round ball. Not my style but hey, he's paying and loves it so who am I to argue. This one will become a .308 sporter. The one in the background is the .308 the one in front is my Mannlicher.

Heck, If you want to restore that carbine then do it. Who cares if it is pristine or not. I love those little mauser carbines, especially the swedes. One of my favorites is the little 1891 Argie carbine. Cute is about the best word I have to describe them. I'd love a swede carbine but the take off stocks alone sell for a small fortune. I don't build guns for resale value. I build em to suit my needs and tastes. That way I have free license to do as I please. You can make a recplacement sleeve and install any sight on top of it or even a rear sleeve with island for a drift adjustable rear sight. that way you won't have to have a gap in the wood. take a look at he NECG rear sighs for an example of what I mean. Not that hard to do and it would really dress that little bugger up. You have good taste in guns. Use the force Monte!

You will be astounded to learn the the relief cut happens to be the same diameter as the extractor slot. They used a slotting cutter to cut the extractor slot. The cutter stops at same place and builds up a rolled chip. This breaks from cutter banging in to it eventually, but the fragment often stays in place and can break the cutter. The receiver metal is heat treated to start with so that the chips will break evenly and quickly. The relief cut was added to assist in the chip breaking of thus saving cutters. Monte, that swede has been marked with the importer "remanufacturers" roll stamp on the receiver ring. Thus, it has no collector worth as a rebuilt miliytary model. Do with it as you will and enjoy a nice rifle with a clear conscience. If that barrel shoot's well, I'd replace the issue rear sigh with something a bit classier, put a 1-5x20 scope on it and enjoy handy little woods carbine.

Tig is #1, probably followed by Mig, then Arc then AO in terms of least detrimental affects to surrounding metal n the form of unwanted heat. Fritz will correct me if I'm wrong. But tig is definitely the way to go.

Damn Jim, wish I were close enough to lend a hand. I will keep you in my prayers for sure. Wish I could do more. Keep strong, have faith! -Mike

Personally I like the 24/47 better due to better machining. Then the M48a and lastly the M48. The stock chices are fewer than for a standard 98 but there are some good ones depending on what you want to spend. One I like is the Boyds JRS. After you whittle a couple of pounds of wood off they look pretty nice. But, most SR mauser stocks can be made to work. If you get a duplicator to make one specify that he leave the inletting undersized and you can get a nice fit. that opens up the realm of possibilities. Every one is probably sick of this pic but here is an M48a in a JRS stock. This rifle was 95% complete when I snapped the pic. I hadn't regulated the front sight yet that's why it is so high and there is no hood on it. Thanks again Jason for that front sight! The WSM's are a to make feed RIGHT. Most things can be made to feed. It just depends on how much effort, time and money you want to invest.

And to all a good nioght! Merry X-mas! If you've been good I'm sure Santa will remember.

James, Good to see you again. If you don't mind single shots then you can build anything that will caliber, more or less. As to feeding, anything with an OAL of less than 3.23" is a good candidate. That means the 257 Bob, 6mm rem, 8x57, 9x57, 9.3x57, .25-06, 7x57, any of the .308 derived cartridges and many more.