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Don, That's about the same issue I have only I can get an enitre rifle in at once. My tank must be longer than 40". But at only 4" deep the water can boil off quickly or boil over if the wind isn't blowing. Not as big an issue since I stopped doing the express rust blue and went to slow rust bluing.

Since I only rust blue that size would be perfect for me. i made mine more like 4x4x40. The 4" wide is ok but I wish they were 6" tall.

Walnut, I think you will find that the inner face you are talking about is remarkably square. The heat treat methods employed by the germans at the turn of last century was sufficient for the powders of the day. Today's powders burn with more vim. $70 is cheap for peace of mind. I know a guy that wants to bring his .376 steyr by because the guy he had rebarrel it did not reheat treat it and now he has lost confidence in an otherwise fine rifle. Do it now and it will last another century. God I love these mausers!

On the upper seat where the extractor slot would be will often have a fin. The metal on either side will wear in and or setback but since the slot does not contact it leaves a raised ridge. Remove the ridge and when you send the receiver in for gas carburising the small anount of setback will usually pooch back out. A quick lapping of the lugs will even things out. Gas carburising as you know is much more advanced than the old pack hardening methods employed when these were made. Warpage is nearly non-existent and no more orange peel effect on the exterior surfaces. The beauty of having these redone is that you know exactly how deep the new skin is so it is not an issue when you do your final lap. Like I said on another site today, anyone that doesn't believe setback is an issue should stop by and check out any one of the dozen or so receivers I have that exhibit it. I love when people say "I've rebarreled a million mausers and never had a problem." Um, sure. That is not to say that many mausers may be fine as-is. But often those in this mindset are the type that like to build cheap mausers as fast as they can in every conceivable caliber. When querried as to how many rounds they actually put through the rifles the answer is self evident. Also, how many of them have actually taken the time to remeasure the headspace? The usual answer is, Well, it hasn't blown up yet so it must be fine, lol. I ask to have the receivers drawn back to about 36C and the bolts about ten points harder. About .020" deep will do.

Like Fritz said, I tig welded it. Stainless rod and a thin tungsten (maybe 1/16"). Make the tanks bigger than. Mine ended up smaller than I would have liked.. Then again, I already bought the sheet of stainless and the bender did a fine job of making nice tanks out of what I had. We used a plasma cutter to cut the end pieces. I bet Fritz coulda welded beads around me.

I welded mine and they are about .035". Stainnless likes to walk so tack it up in many places first.

No, the .243 chamber will not clean up if you rechamber to 6mm Rem. At that pint I'd think that the Shaw barrel would be the better option. They will chamber & thread for about the same as a barrel & reamer rental will cost. Quality ought to be roughly the same.

No, reciever is just that, the stripped receiver. These NEW receivers will end up costing you well over $200 by the time you buy the Bolt, friring pin, firing pin spring, cocking piece, trigger, trigger pin, bottom metal, ejector, bolt stop housing, bolt stop spring, etc. It will nickle and dime you. Unfortunately, Swede parts do not show up on the secondary market with anywhere near the frequency of 98 parts. Otherwise I would have bought these long ago. Still, not a bad price on a good action but you can probably find a similar deal on a complete rifle and then sell all the take off parts. thus, even if you spend $300 on a complete rifle, the take off parts alone will net you about $150.

I've seen people use white from the clorox bottle. But, often it is wood. Richards uses a thin slice of maple. Me, I try to avoid them. I used the maple before and it works well.

Ken, The 1936 Mexicans came with a springfield type cocking piece. Really neat because you can manually cock it or even decock it I suppose. ZD30, Funny, I haven't shot it yet. I want to driil & tap it for a scope. but maybe next time to the range I'll give the irons a try.

No, I'm a tig welder myself. I'd tig it.

Go back and get the swede. Then get the VZ24 and the K.Kale. That's what I would do if they were that cheap around here. I would have grabed the one with the 1916 date, was it a Turk? The K.Kale's are remarkably straight despite the crude appearance. Here is one I made for my dad.

I can't for the life of me figure out what possible advantage the cut, forge, weld approach has? Seems like lots of extra work to me. Either forge it or weld it. In this case I would weld because where are you going to find forging blocks for the 88? Like DT said, slow and low, that is the tempo.

Looks good. You asked for a pic of mine a while back, sorry it took so long but here are a few: Lots of material in the stock to work with. I can slim it down a lot. Lots of potential. Kaliber, 7x57.

If you have a lathe you don't need any counterbores. Just a nicely sharpened lathe bit and someone that knows how to use the compound.

The deal is, you shorten the drop so to compensate you have to use a stiffer spring. This makes for hard bolt lift and wears the new notch rather quickly. This at least on the COC mausers. The Enfield may be diffrent, I haven't studied up on it but it is routinely done on all the ones converted to big boomers and the Rem 30 which was nothing more than a P-17 was COO. I think the key is in how you well do it and possibly who's methods/kit you use.

Fire away with the questions.

That might be fine if the bottom of the bolt root or handle were too thin. Easier to add to receiver, plus, the bolt could then be used in any other receiver you might be inclinded to fit it to. If you put too much material on the bottom of the handle it would look pretty odd. It could easily make a nice gun look like crap. Just my three centavos (adjusted for inflation).

You're taking me too literally. The bolt can move forward (if you push it) just like on an unaltered action. You just don't want the notch at the rear of the handle/root to cam the bolt forward. Likewise, I would not suggest trying to have the front of the notch cam the bolt rearward in an attempt to seat the lugs. The cartridge case should take care of that. Now give me my ear back! Hope that makes sense. I think it would be easiest to add some weld to the receiver notch to build it back up.

Post a pic, I'd love to see. Presumably you are considering adding material back to the receiver? Yes, it is doable. Work fast & control the heat. Your main concern will be not to anneal the extractor cam surface. If you are quick and employ the measures you noted you should not have to worry about heat and teh front ring.

How to notch a receiver

Thanks DT, he and others have helped me and asked that I do so in return. Which I'm only too happy to do because it means I've learned something along the way. Sharing is the only investment that I've gotten decent returns on. Be sure to check out the other essays he's done. Lots of good pics and even without dialog you can figure what he is doing.

That's Jack Belk's site. He taught me to weld handles and polish (with stones). Well, my welding instructor taught me to weld but Jack helped with handles. He has many good pics.

If you have access to welders then cut it off and put what you want on it. You have access to a lathe, then turn your own handle and weld it on. You are only limited by your imagination, that and physics.