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mr fixit

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About mr fixit

  • Birthday 11/24/1969

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    N.E. Texas
  1. which caliber to convert to?

    both of mine are large ring
  2. which caliber to convert to?

    I'm interested. As far as why not 8x57......I'm taking off the military barrels and replacing with sporter barrels to get the smooth lines and no military curves. Just going for looks, but since I am replacing them I need to pick a caliber. I guess my question should have been what replacement barrel calibers are 'plug and play'? I assume either 8x57 or 7x57 would need very little work to feed well. If not those calibers, what are the next easiest to get to feed well with the least work? I have thought for years a 7x57 would be sexy. Mainly because of the 'mystique" and history of the round. I have very seriously considered a custom 7x57, and stamp the barrel ".275 Rigby" cause I'm just weird like that. As for .270....I love it. My main rifle is a factory Remington 700 from the era of pressed checkering. I bought it used as a teenager in the 80's because I had read about it in Outdoor Life so often. It has never let me down.
  3. I'm curious about which round to convert a couple Mausers to. I have a Yugo intermediate action, and a standard length La Caruna action both originally in 8x57. Considering getting them to feed smoothly, what would be an easy caliber conversion? How much trouble is it to get say a .270 to feed smoothly? I would like to chamber them in something that would be easy to find ammo for.
  4. Mannlicher Style Bolt Handle

    I don't think it will make the action brittle. It may not be necessary, but I think at the worst it will be an even treatment an all surfaces which shouldn't be a bad thing at all.
  5. Mannlicher Style Bolt Handle

    I do plan on rust bluing. The reason for heat treating is just to be sure. I cleaned up the reciever ring, removing the crest. Of course I also lapped the bolt/reciever lugs. May or may not have taken enough of in either process to make a difference, but if I have it treated I can be sure. Also, since I am welding the new bolt handle on, I don't have any worries of losing treatment on the lugs after welding since it will all be re heat treated.
  6. I've been accumulating pieces and parts for a while, now I'm down to work. I have a Yugo 24/47 I am fixing up for the youngest son. The plan is to have a full stock, light weight rifle in 6.5 Swede. There are a lot more details to it, but that's the overall to get to my questions. To go with the style of the rifle, I want a butter knife style bolt handle. I couldn't find one to buy like I wanted, so I made my own. I have it shaped, cut, partially polished, and ready to weld on. But before I do, I want to make sure I don't have a problem. I used round stock to make the handle, I believe it to be hot rolled. Will that cause any issues at all? After it is attached, I will send receiver and bolt out to be hardened, then I plan on rust bluing the barrel, receiver and bolt. So, my questions are; Will mild steel (hot or cold rolled) make any difference on heat treating/hardening, or bluing? And a second question, do I 'need' the 3% nickle rod to weld the bolt handle on? I'm using a Tig machine. Would welding wire like ER70 work? I ask that because that is what I have on hand. I don't mind buying the nickle rods if I need them, but I just need to know if they are really necessary. Thanks in advance, and ask me anything if I need to clarify. Mr Fixit
  7. Length Of Pull For Son's Custom

    Quite right. I'm planning on an "Old Classic" style from Richards Microfit. I know I know, but I've ordered twice from them before and got what I wanted. Anyway, Old Classic full length "Mannlicher" style forend. No palm swell at all. And I did decide to go with a 13" LOP and then cut to fit. Now if I could just get Richards on the phone.....
  8. Length Of Pull For Son's Custom

    Sorry, should have said I am building in 6.5x55
  9. I am about to order a stock for my youngest son's first rifle. He is 11, and small for his age. I think he will end up grown at around 5'6"- 5'9" or so. Right now, he has a measured 11 1/4" LOP. The Rifle I am building will be a full stock, trim Mauser with 20" barrel. I am thinking of ordering a semi-inlet with a finished LOP including 1/2" pad of 12 or 12 1/2". Later I can add a 1" pad to make a 12 1/2" or 13" LOP. I am asking thoughts and opinions on that, as well as suggestions. Mr Fixit
  10. In Need Of Enfield Parts

    Will standard No1 Mk III parts interchange? I assume the sight spring will, but what about the extractor spring? Mr Fixit
  11. In Need Of Enfield Parts

    Not really a sporterizing issue, but I thought someone here might have some parts or know where to find them. I have an Indian 2A Enfield (.308) that I have cleaned up and restored. I broke the extractor spring, and lost the rear sight detent spring (coil spring). Anybody have any just laying around? Can you tell me where to find them? Thanks Scott
  12. Heat Treating And Removing Crest Questions

    Got it and replied
  13. Heat Treating And Removing Crest Questions

    ZR1, I sent an email. Wondering about how to get a receiver treated. Contact them directly, or make arrangements with you? Mr Fixit
  14. Heat Treating And Removing Crest Questions

    Ok, thanks! Lets define "Lightly lapping" the lugs. Going from 50% to 90% contact? What would too much lapping be? Just trying to get a feel for when it needs to be treated. Scott
  15. First, I've decided on the next project. I have been waffling back and forth over which receiver to use, between the Yugo 24/47 I currently have, and a Swede which I do not have. I'm going to use the Yugo and make it the best I can. My questions, based on that plan are about cleaning the receiver. I am confused by various threads in the archives and forum in general. So I ask plainly what is the "best" plan. The action is "pure", never sporterized. I will remove the charger hump, drill and tap, lap the bolt lugs, weld on a new butter knife bolt handle, re-barrel to 6.5x55, new safety and floor plate release. All of this will be put into a full stock "Mannlicher" style. When I clean the outer receiver, I may or may not remove the crest. I may or may not remove the side rail markings. Will I need to have the receiver re-heat treated? Will removing the crest/side rail markings or leaving it affect that need? What would cause a receiver to need re heat treating? How does the re treating affect rust bluing? Scott