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Dr.Hess

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  1. Bite them in the butt

    I'll have to admit that the current AR variants are markedly better than the original. Free floating the barrel did wonders for the accuracy. The weight of a modern AR is also significantly higher than the original, on the downside. But 50 years of product development has brought improvements. I mean, what other weapon system can you get a 2 cup coffee maker attachment for? Karl, you should try a new one out sometime. Now, I like my AK's, SKS, Mausers, etc., but after being kinda "out" of AR's for 30 years or so, getting back into them today has opened my eyes to what they have become. Like my 300BO thread.
  2. 9x23 1911

    I had to look up that 9x23 also. Interesting round. Kind of a super-38Super. Too bad they didn't make the case a chopped 223. That can handle the pressure and they are practically free.
  3. On 300 Aac Blackout

    No, I haven't. I have some 30 cal jacketed bullets for 30-06, but mostly big heavy round nose stuff that my big Mauser likes, and those cost me like 30 cents each 25 years ago. The 300BO is kind of a strange round. The bullet needs to be long and pointy to feed right. If you look at a store-bought 300BO 220GR round, like the box of SIG stuff I bought at about a buck each, the bullet tapers off real fast after the neck, but the loaded round is as long as a 223. I did look for bullets like that at Midway and Brownells, but I couldn't find anything. Using a sizing die as a crimper has been working out really well. No problems at all with the bullet coming apart or not feeding. I should take some pics. Midway got the Redding 300BO taper crimp die in stock yesterday. Just for the hell of it, I ordered it. I've spent so much time and money on this project, what's another forty bucks? I know I've cast, powdercoated, loaded and shot well over 1K rounds trying to get this right. I've never developed a load this thoroughly before. It is pretty handy to load up 5 or 10 rounds in the evening, walk outside and dump them into a tree stump to test, then go back to the loading bench and try something else. Much handier than the way I used to have to do it: Load up a bunch, drive to the range, set up, shoot, take down, drive back home, think about changes to make and wait for another opportunity to test.
  4. ARs

    AR's are just being used. The mass killings, almost always by Democrats with mental health issues, are used by the Democrats to try to disarm us. You can see it in what happened in other countries like England and Australia. In England, they had banned all guns except single shot shotguns. Then some guy walks down the street with a single shot shotgun and does a mass killing, casually reloading along the way. So they banned those too. That's what the left wants to do to us. Oh, just ban these mean looking rifles, then we'll all be happy and we promise to stop the mass murders. Then they will go after something else, and eventually will come for your lever action rifle, Mauser and revolver. It's not that it has a high capacity magazine, is easy to reload, is semi-automatic, etc. The problem they really have with them is that when you pull the trigger, a bullet comes out. That just can't be, and they want to ban them because of it. That's why we can't let them ban AR's.
  5. On 300 Aac Blackout

    Well, I think I about have it solved. With the cast bullet, you have to bell the case mouth or you will shave the bullet when seating, thus the need for the 30 carbine insert thingie for the powder measure. That belling needs to be un-belled before it gets to the rifle chamber. The Lee Factory Crimp Die, when set to a point that it would put a crimp on it and un-bell the case to where it would chamber was causing a weakness in the cast bullet. That weakness was occasionally resulting in a ring of bullet lead separating, probably from the bullet going down the chamber into the barrel throat, and that piece of lead was causing subsequent bullets to not chamber. If you look at the pics of the bullets above, you can see multiple rings on them where the regularly Lee allox lube stuff would reside. I think a piece of one of those rings was breaking off, probably the first one. You wouldn't have this problem with a FMJ bullet. A taper crimp would probably work out. Midway is out of stock on the Redding taper crimp 300 BO die. They'll be back instock in a couple days. Anyway, what I did was take the now extra Lee full length resizing die and put it in the 4th position of the Dillon, usually where the crimp die goes. I backed it out and removed the decapping rod. Now, after the bullet is seated, it goes to the sizing die in #4 position and the last 0.050 or so of the case is sized again to factory specs. It's not much, but the bell is removed and maybe 3 thousands is pressed in. Basically, I'm using the sizing die as a crimp die. Testing the strength of the crimp, I can't pull the bullet out with my hands, can't push it in further with my hands and running it through the magazine into the chamber doesn't move the bullet back. This is not surprising, as I think the powder is compressed at 13.7gr H335. When I pulled a test bullet in my new Hornady bullet puller die (man, you guys need one of those...), it pulled very easy compared to one that had been crimped in the Lee FCD. But, like I said, the bullet doesn't move in chambering, so, I guess it's enough. A full mag's test showed that functioning was excellent. No problems at all. I need to load up more and test further. I ran out of powder a couple days ago and spent most of my shop time last night looking for more H335. One of those "surely I bought some of that in the last 30 years... Now where did I put it?"
  6. Digging around in the safe

    That's a nice collection there, Ken. Is that one of those bushing/compensaters? I've seen them but always wondered if they did anything.
  7. My second home Assault web may need some help

    Do they need a web host? There are plenty of those out there. We are using Bluehost on here, but they may not be the best/cheapest today. Richard is charging us two hundred for his services, which I think is quite reasonable. That's not hosting, but more "adult supervision" behind the scenes tinkering web stuff. He may be able to help them move to a new host, set it up, etc. I'm sure he knows of other web hosts to use. One of his potential solutions when we had the problem with Az and Kenny not being able to get in was to dump bluehost and move us somewhere else, but that wasn't necessary after he fixed other problems (cough sucuri cough.) If your assault web people are interested in hiring him at his going rate, send him a PM and get them all in touch. Or if they just want another web host, angryhosting, godady, etc. are all out there.
  8. On 300 Aac Blackout

    Sorry you had a bad experience with Dillon, Az. I've had nothing but good experiences with them, albeit all mail order, over the last 35 years. When I started reloading again recently, I came across busted pieces, mostly powder measure bits from trying to use 4198, in my boxes. They replaced them all with a phone call back then. And their sales guys/tech support know their stuff, like recommending the 30 carbine expander for 300 BO. Anyway, I think you just got stuck in the wrong storm. The thugs with guns just turned you in because they thought you turned them in. But I understand grudges. I've been thinking about my chambering issues. I occasionally find a ring of lead, maybe 1MM 'tall", a few thousandths thick and practically exactly .308" OD, in the chamber area, and I think when those show up, I have chambering problems. I think this is what is happening: The Lee bullet has driving bands that I size to .308". The sizing band most forward is right about at the case mouth in my current OAL setting. I think that the Lee Factory Crimp Die is crimping it just below the end of the driving band and making a weakness at the end. I think either a taper crimp die or perhaps seating the bullet a tad deeper so the FCD crimps in front of the first driving band instead of just after the start of it might help. Anyway, I'll try that next before springing another forty bucks on a taper crimp die. I like the new Avatar.
  9. Great victory

    I think that the new regime is not putting up with that BS like the last one did. Actually, the last one encouraged it and went out of their way to promote it. Glad to see things changing.
  10. On 300 Aac Blackout

    I've had some chambering problems with my 223 reloads from 35 years ago. They get tight. Too tight for the varmint AR I built. That was with regular RCBS 223 dies that they sold 40+ years ago when I bought them. I haven't loaded any 223 really since. I had a bunch loaded then, like a 50 cal ammo box stuffed to the top and the box is now almost empty; maybe 30-40 left. They worked fantastic in a 14" Contender. Sub MOA. If you could see it in a 9x scope, you could nail it, and that was just cheap 3 cent 55 gr FMJ's, H335, mixed head stamps and all run through the Dillon while drinking beer and listening to the radio. Since then, I've bought some factory ammo and I've shot a little of it, but kinda put the AR's up for AK's for a while. I don't remember if I ever bought a FCD for 223. I might have, but like I said, I haven't loaded it in a long time. And regarding those forward assists, I didn't have one either. I always thought I needed one, because, you know, the military had it added, so it must be important. I figured that if one of my reloads was tight and wouldn't chamber, I could use the assist. Then I built a rifle with the assist and found out that it was completely useless. If the round wouldn't chamber, no amount of pressing on that thing would make it chamber. Maybe if you took a hammer to it, it might, but an AR is not an AK, and that's not a good idea. When I built this 300BO pistol, I got a Stoner upper with no forward assist or dust cover. I figured the forward assist was useless anyway, and the dust cover just added weight for a pistol. I don't crawl around in the dirt. I had chambering problems in 45 until I went with the taper crimp dies, especially in a Blackhawk convertible. And, yes, I agree that crimping all by itself instead of while seating the bullet seems to be important. With the Dillon, there's a spot for it, so it is no more work than crimping with seating. I see that Redding makes a taper crimp only die in 300BO. I may experiment with that.
  11. On 300 Aac Blackout

    I am using the Lee using the Lee Factory Crimp die. I use those on everything rifle. I still use a stand-alone taper crimp die on straight wall pistol ammo, like 45, 9mm. I'm getting real close on this. Still need more testing. I've probably put close to a thousand rounds through a couple of 300BO's to get this far. I think that for forming brass, the Lee die is preferred, and then use the Forester in the Dillon for final sizing.
  12. On 300 Aac Blackout

    The Lee bullet sizer is working out well. The case sizer, well... Having about solved the bullet issue, Ii found I still had some cases that were not going into battery. But when I ran the purchased brass through, problems were almost non-existent. The difference being the cases I made myself versus the cases I purchased, made from mil-spec brass. I bought a bullet chambering guide thing that you drop a bullet in and see if it goes all the way in a SAAMI minimal spec chamber. If it didn't go in, it likely would not chamber. If it did go in, it still might not chamber. The cases I made were mixed headstamps. Out came the calipers. It turns out that the brass I bought very closely matched the store-bought SIG ammo I bought. The brass I made was very slightly larger in diameter at the same points in the taper and in particular at the base. Only a few thousandths, but measurable, and especially if you just put the calipers at some setting and put the two cases nose down in them. The ones I made stuck up higher than the store bought cases or the SIG ammo. The Lee sizing die was slightly larger than the dies used by SIG or Rocky. The die was adjusted properly in the press. I cut and ran a 223 brass through, forming the shoulder, and it was in the same spot as on the other 2, just the body was slightly fatter. I drew a couple lines on a piece of brass with a marker and ran it through the Lee die. As I have seen several references to on teh Intr4w3bz, y0, the lee die did not size the last quarter inch or so down at the base. Or certainly not tight. There was virtually no sign of rubbing at the base, where the rest of the case had parts of the lines scrapped. I do have proper Dye Chem, but I went with the marker. I also suspect that my Stoner barrel chamber is tight. Like really tight, but fine with factory ammo specs. So I bought a Forester sizing die off Midway. It came in yesterday. I ran some home made brass through it and it came out very close to the store-bought/Rocky brass. A full mag through the pistol didn't have any problems with it.
  13. Just in

    You could always move to FA (Free America.) I did when I escaped from the PRC (People's Republic of California.) Karl escaped the PRC for FA too.
  14. Just in

    That looks good. Also interested in the recoil comparison with a stock 1911 in 45 with 230gr hardball. Like "a bit more," or "ZOMG! MY HAND, MY HAND..."
  15. On 300 Aac Blackout

    Further testing: In about 100 rounds, I had one failure to go into battery when using the water dropped (hard) cast boolits sized with the Lee sizer. I loaded up some of the softer bullets, same powder coating and running them through the Lee sizer, and I had failures to go into battery. So, I think the water dropping is part of the key here. I had stopped water dropping them earlier because they were bending and breaking in half. Also, the tips were splitting off on me. I solved that problem by turning the pot temp down after it is up to temp, and being real sure to keep the mold cooled off on my wet sponge, like hitting the bottom on the sponge every other cast, or even every cast. The bullets (230 gr 30 cal) are almost as long as the mold. There's only like MAYBE 1/8" between the tip of the bullet and the bottom of the mold. Keeping that extra cool gets the bullets more solid when they come out of the mold and drop into the water. I powdercoated another 150 or so this afternoon too. The Lee sizer is working out fine. I can size maybe 2 or 3 times faster, at least 2x, than with my old (bought in the mid 70's) RCBS Lubamatic. I put the Lee die in my RCBS Jr. It does complain a bit with some of them. It is supposed to be used on lubed boolits, with the tumble lube stuff. I found that if I occasionally run some Break Free down the die, then a patch on a cleaning rod, then catch the next few bullets and wipe them down, that it helps a lot. Oh, and if you ever have a batch of "oopsies", get one of the Hornady bullet pullers and the caliber specific collet insert. So much easier than the hammer method. Lots easier on the wrist.
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