rdm1962 Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 I am starting a build on a 1895 Chilean Mauser for my brother. He picked it up last year for around for $90. The vintage (made in El Passo) Weaver K4 on it was worth half of the price. It was sporterized a long time ago. The bolt handle was crudely bent and the safety was ground down. He wants to keep the original military barrel and sights. Our dad had a 1895 Belgian as his Deer rifle and He wants it to be similar. My brother isn't a shooter and this gun will get little use. I have shot it and it did ok with the 2 stage trigger and open sights. The one piece Redfield mount had to go. It made it very hard to load. I am working on removing the stripper clip hump. I put a screw in to the hole from inside the receiver to protect the threads. I will send it off to Clemson to have the bolt handle fixed or replaced, I haven't decided yet. I will replace the bolt shroud and trigger. What is detailed and is it worth the effort to change it to cock on open? Will the trigger be still be for a 95 or would a 98 then work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 http://daytraco.com/Products/Speed-Lock-Kit-M93-96-Mauser__DSL93.aspx http://daytraco.com/Products/Mark-II-Safety--M93-96-Mauser__DMS93.aspx You get everything at once, for about $100. You can keep the existing shroud. The Dayton is an all-steel unit. I don't own one personally, but I've not heard any negatives. I like the minimal dimensions (much less wood to remove). Maybe someone here has played with one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemson Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 I am not personally a fan of cock-on-opening conversions, Ralph. The problems are (1) in getting the right helix cut for the cocking cam and (2) in the fact that the cocking cam is going to be much narrower than a Model 98 cam, thus prone to wear. That said, I have seen successful ones, but for every one of those, I have seen folks looking for bolts to go back to COC operation. Clemson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacrat Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Backwards Bubba got to it. That base was obviously not made for this rifle. Much to short. Bubba Mickey Moused it by mounting it backwards and drilled into the top lug support. edit........could be I'm mistaken, but something just doesn't look right. I've never seen a standard turn in base where the turn in is at rear and windage adj. at the front. Also as is, if you move the base forward where it belongs the rear hole will be in the feeding/ejection port. JM2c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdm1962 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 I am ready to order the Trigger, bolt shroud and scope mounts for this build. I ran into a question on scope mounts. Checking Midway and Brownells they don't list mounts for a 95 action. They do show for Sweed 96's though. Are the action contours the same? I want to use dove tail mounts like Leupold. The cock on open change is out not really needed. Ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=26148/pid=9969/Product/47157_JR_MK_1_PC_BASE #750-511-138 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=19991/pid=7863/Product/51263_STD_M96_MATTE_2_PC_BASE #526-512-630 http://www.sporterexpress.com/Leupold-Mauser-96-2-Piece-Scope-Ring-Base Sporter Express has a very good price. '91 to '96 should all use the same bases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 As Pacrat said, the scope base was crudely fitted to that receiver. The rear hole on the receiver ring is in the lug web or maybe even on the seat. Snap a pic of the lugseats. More mportantly, the hole spacing is off. Should be .860" and looks be .500" or so. The hole on the rear bridge should not "normally" be on the charger hump but behind it. No biggie because if you recountour you can pace a second hole .500" behind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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