rdfrench31 Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 I just watched Larry Potterfield remove the charging hump from a LR mauser action. It was on the guntech section during American Rifleman TV. He used a Dremel with one of the coarse sanding drums and a mill followed by an India stone. I think he was doing okay until he got to the stoning...looks like to me he rolled the edges over way too far. It wasn't near as sharp and clean as the ones I've seen many of the members here do. I did see one thing that I thought was kinda neat, he laid a piece of sand paper smooth side down over the bridge, and lapped the rear base to the profile of the newly contoured bridge. I've almost finished mine, but I started with a 9/16 HSS end mill, then a , then the stone. I'm trying to get a nice clean line along the sides of the receiver like the ones Z1r and others have done. Have any of you guys ever lapped the rear base? I noticed you can see light under my rear base, but i figured I would continue stoning the bridge until the lines were nice and crisp and the base fit down tight. He also checked the tops of the bases with a level, and lapped the rear base until it was level with the front. Honestly this is something I completely neglected to check, but i will now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 I noticed you can see light under my rear base, but i figured I would continue stoning the bridge until the lines were nice and crisp and the base fit down tight. Are you using 2 peice bases? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdfrench31 Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Are you using 2 peice bases? Yeah Leupold 2-pc for the FN mauser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 When you are contouring is the perfect time to address bases fitment. Many neglect this until after they finish. As you say, you can dress the flat and carefully remove material to allow the base to fit flush on the sides and at the same time get the nice flat edges. Not allowing the stones to roll over the edge is key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdfrench31 Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Not allowing the stones to roll over the edge is key. Yeah, the one Potterfield did looked kinda bubba to me. I've seen ones here that looked awesome...like yours Z, kenak's, and clemson's...I know I've neglected others but those are the ones that come to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Yeah, the one Potterfield did looked kinda bubba to me. I've seen ones here that looked awesome...like yours Z, kenak's, and clemson's...I know I've neglected others but those are the ones that come to mind. as long as you remebered me, lol. I work the stone from front to back especially on the sides. More surface to help keep the stone flat. You can cheat by applying a little extra pressure on the outboard edge to get a wee bit of taper. patience is key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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