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How To Make A 2 Piece Stock Work


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#1 mr fixit

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 07:41 PM

I have had an idea in mind for a while; a Swede 96 in a trim full length Manlicher stock.

The problem is I can't find a full length stock, that I can afford that is. Boyds and Richards neither list any Manlicher styles.

So, Tell me about this idea. A 2 piece stock, butt stock to just forward of the receiver, and another piece from there to the end of the barrel. That's the idea, now how to make it work?

How would you attach and stabilize the 2 parts together?

Mr Fixit

#2 littlecanoe

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 08:15 PM

I'd clamp and glue the ends together after they had been squared and trued to the line of the barrel.

If there is a barrel channel already cut I'd then cut a mortice between the two pieces that would no be exposed on the exterior after finish shaping of the stock. Make sure the mortice is in the bottom of the barrel channel where wood will be thickest.

Then I'd epoxy a spline that was fit into the mortice that I'd cut. I'd be careful to fit it precisely. Maybe gorilla glue and I'd clamp it in place using a dowel, evenly spaced clamps and see how that worked.

Might want to try it on a couple sacrificial pieces of wood first.

#3 Brenden

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 08:45 PM

Mr Fix it, Richards does offer a Manlicher style stock for barrels up to 22" I believe. There is cost associated with it though, an extra $49.

I'd try Little boats idea, but it would be hard to get the joints to be invisiable. Maybe put a thin slice of maple spacer in between the joints to hide (well might make it more noticable ? i dunno) and add some character if that is your thing. (some hate maple spacers on stocks)
Good luck,

Brenden

#4 z1r

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 09:20 PM

Mr Fix it, Richards does offer a Manlicher style stock for barrels up to 22" I believe. There is cost associated with it though, an extra $49.

I'd try Little boats idea, but it would be hard to get the joints to be invisiable. Maybe put a thin slice of maple spacer in between the joints to hide (well might make it more noticable ? i dunno) and add some character if that is your thing. (some hate maple spacers on stocks)
Good luck,

Brenden



Maple spacers? The idea is to make it look GOOD. :D

Better to splice a sjort extension on where the normal fore end ends than to add a long extension. Add a wafer of ebony at the joint to draw attention to it and add color. Right idea Brenden, wrong color though.

#5 z1r

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 09:58 PM

Here, like this:

Posted Image

#6 724wd

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 10:17 PM

GAG offers manlicher stocks. have you checked their prices?

#7 z1r

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 10:21 PM

GAG offers manlicher stocks. have you checked their prices?


Any decent duplicator can do a Mannlicher or full stock. But, the stock blanks typically cost more due to their larger size.

#8 mr fixit

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 07:18 AM

Maple spacers? The idea is to make it look GOOD. :D

Better to splice a sjort extension on where the normal fore end ends than to add a long extension. Add a wafer of ebony at the joint to draw attention to it and add color. Right idea Brenden, wrong color though.


Z1r, a slice of Ebony was what I was thinking, to match the tip of ebony, and the grip cap.

however, I do like the idea that Richards has the full stock!

With that in mind, the only thing I am slightly worried about is the action. What is the consensus of folks here on giving a 96 action (cock on close) for a first rifle. Is there any reason not to?

Looks like I'm going to have to learn to checker wood.

Also, anybody bought any of the 96 barreled actions from SARCO? Any idea on condition?

Mr Fixit

#9 littlecanoe

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 05:46 PM

The 96 action is more trim and a bit lighter. Most say don't load as hot as the 98. Other than that, those that load for the 96 action say that it does it's job at those pressures. If the action is good your golden.

Z1R's pic gave me some inspiration for a mannlicher. There should be a link in the archives or sporterizing section. I cut down a Gustav to 20 inches and made a stock. The project is on hold right now but is very close to being finished. I'm going to try to wrap it up this winter. The lines of Z's stock are awesome. If you do a stock, especially if it's your first, try to go with the less is more concept. Handle some older guns. Get a feel for wrist size, how open and closed the grip is, really examine the lines. Layout is awesome when you can build in cast, camber and toe into the stock. I can close my eyes, shoulder this rifle and when I open my eyes I'm sighting right down the barrel. Better than I had hoped for.

#10 JohnD

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 03:46 PM

Don't forget, the M96 can be a good choice for a first gun for another reason- it is easier to lift the bolt handle, because you're not compressing the firing pin spring. Then when you close the bolt, you've got the benefit of some momentum to help with the firing spring compression (cocking). If the shooter is small of stature, that can make proper bolt manipulation much easier to learn.

#11 Vladymere

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 06:45 PM

Here is a thread on two piece stocks on classic German sporting rifles that may be of interest to you. http://parallaxscuri...com/topic/27894

Vlad

#12 z1r

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 11:11 PM

Z1r, a slice of Ebony was what I was thinking, to match the tip of ebony, and the grip cap.

however, I do like the idea that Richards has the full stock!

With that in mind, the only thing I am slightly worried about is the action. What is the consensus of folks here on giving a 96 action (cock on close) for a first rifle. Is there any reason not to?

Looks like I'm going to have to learn to checker wood.

Also, anybody bought any of the 96 barreled actions from SARCO? Any idea on condition?

Mr Fixit


FWIW, I'm building myself a fullstocked 96. Respect its design limits and have fun with it.

As for two piece stocks, having inspected several originals, it's apparent that on some, especially those with long barrels, the purpose of the joint was to minimize forend pressue on the barrel. These joints were not even glued together, just held in place by a dowel on some and relied on the fore end cap to keep the two pieces relatively together. On those with shorter barrels ~20", there were two primary reasons: First, like on mine, it was decorative, the ebony being glued in place to the wood it is sandwiched between. The wood on either side of the ebony matches and was obviously from the same blank. On others the wood does not match and this joint was a means of utilising the wood on hand to make a stock long enough for a mannlicher type stock. These too were glued in place.




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