bambi shooter Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 I have a no4 mk1 that I tried to get to group, using various powders, at different loads with no luck (it was all over the place at 100 yds) . Then I came across your forum, and I saw an item about barrel counter boring, so I checked the rifle. Evidently a previous owner somewhere down the line got aggressive with a cleaning rod, or jammed something hard down the barrel, as there is a gouge from the crown about a quarter of an inch inside the barrel. Due to the extent of this damage, should I try to get it counterbored, or get it cut and recrowned? The gouge is probably as wide as it is deep, and any insight would be appreciated. At one time there was something on the internet that showed how to recrown a barrel, but I have been unable to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambi shooter Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 I think I found the answer to my question on the barrel forum. It is the one that Steve Wagner uses, and it looks like it is exactly suited to my needs. Has anyone else tried it? ( I don't know how to show the link), but ii is about barrell recrowning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Couple things to try: Slug the bore to determine what your bore size is. Enfields are usually right around .312" but you never can tell. Next, in lieu of using a carriage bolt to recrown the barrel, how much would a professional smith charge you to cut the barrel back .30" and cut a new crown? My 'smith quoted me something like $70 for this one time and if it increases your accuracy, it is well worth it. And its quick too - the last barrel he crowned for me, he crowned while I waited. The key to crowning a barrel is to make sure your crown is concentric so the bullet leaves in a uniform manner. Any little variations can through off your accuracy. Incidentally, what's bedding look like with your No. 4? I'm in the process of restocking one at the moment and I'm probably going to glass bed it this week at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambi shooter Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 I slugged the barrel, and it is .311, and it is also free floated ( I removed the handguard), so I am fairly certain it is the gouge, which has a bit of a lip on it, that is causing the problem. I will give my smith a call to see what he would do it for. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0332 Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 The carriage bolt method worked very well for me with my barrel shortening project. I found that a 1/4 inch bolt worked better than a 3/8 inch bolt. I used valve grinding compound that I got for cheap at Napa. I will use it again. I know that Brownells sells a lap for this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlunity Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 counter-boring: Tools required: A. drill press B. A new drill-bit just a tad larger than .303. You would have to look that up. C. two levels. D. cutting oil E. Pipe cutting compound F. A carriage head brass bolt small and long enough to fit INSIDE the bore and cut a new crown. G. Clamps Steps: A. remove the rifle from the stock, plug the bore with a patch about three inches down to catch metal shavings. B. Aline the barrel with the drill bit, this must be done both vertically and horizantly as you want the counter bore to be centered and straight.( thus the need for two levels) C. Clamp the barrel in place apply some cutting oil and drill about 1 to 2inches. In most cases that is far enough to get pass the damaged rifling. D. Cut a new crown inside the counter-bore. ( I wrote (D) since the site I learned to do this on said to. but I think the counter bore would work ok without it as the end of the counter bore would be by it's nature, even. but that is just my theory.) F. Clean the rifle and bore with care and go to the range. Take care Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan in S C Posted July 27, 2006 Report Share Posted July 27, 2006 Crown it before you have it cut.That may solve your problem. Stan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Karl Posted July 27, 2006 Report Share Posted July 27, 2006 free floated ( I removed the handguard), You might want to put it back and re shoot before you cut. I read that the No 4 needed the downwould pressure of the forward handguard to group correctly. karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bambi shooter Posted July 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2006 I went the route of Steve Wagner's idea, and it appears to have come out very well. I only took a about a quarter of an inch off of the barrel, used the grinder ball in the drill, valve grinding compound on the stovebolt, then finished up by putting a piece of 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper between the grinding ball and the barrel, spinning it at very slow speeds. It came out as smooth as glass, and very symmetrical. After I cleaned the bore(I had put the patch in before starting), I used alcohol to remove all of the oil aroung the end of the barrel, and then blued it. There are no traces of any burrs around the end of the muzzel, and it has a very nice recessed bore. After I do some reloading, I will take it to the range, and let you know what the results are. My thanks to all of you for your ideas and input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric123 Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Well...How does she shoot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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