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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

hrc

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  1. I noticed on my stainless Case penknife that I carry had some orange discoloration. I used a regular pencil eraser to polish the discoloration away, and it worked well. I got that tip from my Ruger vaquero manual.
  2. Is the barrel an modified arisaka barrel or something else?
  3. Its always good to use up those left over parts. Is that a swede triggergaurd as well? If so how did it fit up to that receiver? I like it.
  4. Heath, I have a .54 cal thompson center new englander barrel (round) with the breech plug removed. It has sights and ramrod thimbles. It has slight marks and rust from the breech plug removal but it could be turned down. If interested let me know, I'm looking for a chopped mauser stock. The breech is 11/16-20 thread.
  5. The problem with the threads is that they look like a heli coil kit (sp?), they broke off the inner wall of the socket. GPC has a No. 1 MkIII receiver for under $30. I have thought of turning a new bushing and welding in into the socket, or even welding a long threaded stud and using a hex nut to secure the buttstock. I'm still brainstorming at this point. By the way, the .45 kit was a gift from my wife last Christmas, she ordered it late October and I received it last MARCH. She was also upset with Rhineland. The funny thing is that I had it assembled and functional within a week, but still have not finished it, a YEAR later. I installed the buttstock and discovered the bolt would not tighten and continued to loosen, so I put the project aside for a while....
  6. I fixed my problem....... sort of. I assembled a couple of junker pistols, the old Smith included and went to the gun shop. The funny this is that the were having a sale on Smith and Wesson guns, new and used. Nothing really caught my eye at first. After looking for a bit, I walked out with a Ruger Vaquero in 45LC. (fixed sights!) I had been wanting one, the price was right , and I couldn't go home with the stuff I brought. With this pistol I can hit a 6" steel plate at 15 yards most of the time. So the end result is that now I have a pistol that hits where I aim. That problem was easier to fix than I thought.
  7. I am trying to build on of those Rhineland .45acp conversions on an old No. 1 Enfield I have. the problem that has risen is that the threads for the stock bolt are comming apart. I have decided to not use this receiver. So now I am on the hunt for a new receiver. I think that I could dig up another no. 1 receiver easily enough, but the no. 4 is much better suited for this conversion (mainly for the rear sight). So my question is, what parts, if any would cross over from the two receivers (stock bolt, triggerguard)? I know that the safety, and bolt are different, but I was just wondering if anything else fit. If not much is compatable, I will either look for another no.1 receiver or an entire No.4 Enfield rifle. I'm just looking for a place to start, with hopes that I may finish a project this year.
  8. I have an old military and police S&W model 10. It is in decent shape and the trigger pull is very crisp, a lot nice than my other .38. At about 10yds shooting single action I could cover the group with my palm, double action with my hand. The only problem is that the group is about 4 to 5" left of the point of aim(try hitting a pop can). Everyone who shot it had about the same error. The barrel and it crown look pretty good. With fixed sights, what if anything can be done? I thought of removing the front sight and making a new one for it.
  9. Well, I took the pistol back to the "range" or trash pit rather and I hit just about everything with it (oil bottles, smoke detectors, etc). I just put in my ear plugs real tight, What I should always do anyway. I am going to keep it as is for now....Its definately cheaper that way. You can't work on all your crazy ideas, I gotta finish some first. I might try it on some groundhogs this summer.
  10. This is my first Ruger pistol but I have handled a few and I agree that it is not as nice as other rugers. One chamber is sticky and the cylinder is rough to install compared to others. I hate to get rid of it since my wife bought it (I don't want her to stop buying me guns) and also due to the fact that it will probably be tougher to trade off, but I will keep looking.
  11. My wife bought me a used Ruger 30 Carbine as a christmas present. It has a lot of holster wear but it is in good shape. I have only fired a box of shells through it. It is accurate but it is the loudest pistol I ever shot. I fired it without earplugs only once and my ears rang for an hour. Checking around the internet it seems that this pistol has a small cult following, but has a low resale value. I was wondering if anyone has ever done anything with this pistol, such as rebarreling and re chambering to something like .32-20. I'm just testing the waters, like everyone else I need another project to start.
  12. hrc

    Latest Project

    Finally Something I can comment on. I rework old mauser stock and becaue of cleaning rod holes, I make a lot of grip caps. To get a straight cut on a contoured stock I make a jig. I take a piece of 3/4 inch plywood, something suitable for a jig cut about 8 by 36". I draw a straight line down the center of the board then I drill a 1/4 hole (on the straight line) and insert a 4 or 5" dowel I measure the distance between the floorplate holes and drill a second hole about 3/8 ( I don't have one to look at right now) get a suitable dowel and hopefully you can pin a stock down to the board and chop it to the desired length. This works great on straight or 5 cuts. This jig is real handy. I added a hold down and can router out areas such as the rear swivel to fill it in. For the cap drilling itself I take a piece of 2 by 2 about 3 or 4 inches long and bore a 1/4" hole lengthwise in it. I mitre on end then tack a larger piece of 1 by material to this. This allows you to use a hand held drill to install the cap. You buttthe jig up against the end of the stock or capwith the one by resting on the top of the barrel channel then you drill theough the 1/4 guide hole then you do the same on the other piece. I hope someone can understand this because I don't have any pictures.
  13. I just got a rossi triple play .243/.12ga/.50 cal in-line. I think it is wise to fire a few caps to dry the barrel. I have been used some cheap sabots and they seem to load fine. It becomes difficult after several shots, but I carry a bore brush and it seems to remedy this. I'd try a different brand of sabots first, just to see if there are any differences. Are you using pyrodex pellets? I've used them and pyrodex powder without any trouble I just left a dead primer in to keep it from falling out. I'm new to this game two, but you should not have that much trouble loading it.
  14. I just unscrewed my first SMLE No 1 MKIII barrel with very little trouble, which I was surprised from what I heard about the other Enfields. I want to remove the stripper clip guide to get a lower line of sights. I can grind this hump off, but on the right hand (bolt handle) side could I just drill out the rivets since it will be hidden under the stock or should I just grind her too?
  15. hrc

    ATI stock

    fmsniper, I love what you did to those stocks. Your right it doesn't need filled, but I have not decided my course of action yet. What did you use to finish your stock, they look top notch. Is it reinforced to attach the bipod or did you use the existing swivel hole? Also do you do anything special to hold the mag spring in place? I was just wondering since I haven't installed a complete rifle in it yet
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