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Put that lid down! I’ve often said people are like electricity, they take the laziest, easiest route possible!

Wow. That's an example of the old saying "Lightening goes where it wants to."

Austin, probably yesterday, coworker of my brother’s girlfriend. Lit the attic on fire. They were home, and not on the pot (or they’d be charcoal)! Put that lid down! https://youtube.com/shorts/dYLJewCeIwc?si=9r9IqkEk1Lo69Vy_

That's a good project. I think the 243 WIN is highly underappreciated. The 6mm wonder cartridges get all the press, but the 243 was there decades before them.

Is this a stock Polytech, or has it been modified with a new bolt? Lots of people change the bolt, since the Chinese made them to slightly longer NATO headspace specs. Chinese bolt will be unmarked on top, USGI bolt will have the manufacturers code and numbers on top. Things to watch out for on a Polytech. The flat washer type spring in the rear site elevation knob may not be strong enough, so the sight knob may not hold zero. Easy fix. Replace with USGI M-14(marked to 10 meters) or Garand(marked to 12 yards). Trigger may be soft. Easy fix. Replace with USGI M14 or Garand. Might as well replace the hammer spring and trigger pin while you have it apart. Recoil spring may be a bit short. Replace with USGI or Orion 7 spring. I think the Chinese had issues with their springs. If you replace the stock with a USGI, or aftermarket, you will have to glue in a spacer(popsicle stick piece works well), or a blob of epoxy inside the stock to prevent the shorter Chinese connector lock from walking out. Note, you may not have any of these issues. But, I have 3, and helped a buddy get one, and I had to do the trigger and sight knobs on his and one of mine. So, I did all of them. Polys are good, well made, and you did not get hurt at that price. The barrels are chrome lined, and are good. Op rods are forged one piece. The threads are metric. So, a USGI castle nut may not work on a Poly barrel. Polytechs work just fine with USGI magazines. There have been some reports that Check Mate magazines has difficulty locking into place(too tight). I have one CM mag, and it does have that issue with my Polytechs. Bassetts are good mounts, but the angled mount like what you have is a bit harder to get the ring height correct one. I have 5, and they all are the picatinney rail type. If you go high mount, you will need a cheek piece. I like the TNVC, because they have a pocket for the mont tool, and a couple of Allen wrenches to work on the scope.

It's been a while since I posted, but I thought I would post pics of my latest idea. Sporterizing Intermediate Mausers is not hard, though it can be problematic due to lack of aftermarket parts. MOST standard Mauser parts will fit and work. But, there aren't any hinged trigger guards in 8mm length out there that will work. Those for the Model 95/96 are usually made for 7mm, and while the screw spacing is correct, the magazine box is not the right length. The Intermediate Yugos are nice to work on, since most are in good condition, having never been abused in a war. They are a perfect length for 243W/308W, 257 Roberts, and a 25-06 will also fit. So, after giving it some thought, taking measurements, and looking at several TGs, I found a donor commercial TG on eBay that someone had drilled a series of holes in it to lighten it. Perfect for my intentions, since that part will be discarded anyway. I took it and an Intermediate Mauser(24/47) trigger guard and cut off the TG bows as close to the rear wall of the box as possible. Then had a neighbor with a wired feed MIG weld the commercial TG bow to the Military TG box. I would have preferred to TIG, but I didn't know anyone who had a TIG welder. I also had him fill in the locking screw hole behind the front TG screw. I took a Parker Hale/Santa Barbara hinged floor plate and used it as a pattern to open up the TG for the hinge tongue. Note: There is a difference between an Interarms MkX/Zastava 70 and a PH/SB tongue. After that, I drilled the hinge pin hole. Once all that was done, it was fairly simple matter to grind/file the floor plate to fit the new box, and clean up the welds. Filing and grinding is done at the rear only. The finished TG was then parkerized to match the rest of the rifle. It turned out better than I expected. it was not as hard as I expected. The "hardest" part was getting the two halves lined up properly. It's very close, but not perfect. It 's now on my Yugo based 243Win with it's PH barrel.

Good one- what a dollar buys?

LOL