Indian Creek 1

Don this is the only pic of an FN bottom metal that I have and is one I cut the guard off to be replaced by one that I made. It is not avery good pic. but you can see the simualarity to yours.

Does the FN have a short tang also? The block on the SR is beveled on the top, it's a little hard to see in the pic, so 1916 it probably is.

-Don

Don, the FN has the short tang but the lock screw is forward of the rear screw and rearward of the front screw.

The upper looks like an FN, altho I'm not sure.

Don, the lower one may be spanish 1916 converted to 7.62 .

I can remember when a coke was a nickle and so was four big cinnamon rolls in a pack. We also could get a sandwich on french with choice of meats for 15 cents . That was back in the 40's . Boy am I getting old. In the 60's I bought an O3-A3 unissued in cosmoline for $35.00. Wish I still had it.

Definatly Norelco

"You do not need high frequency except for aluminum."

 

I disagree. Especially if you work on very small parts.

 

Without the high frequency you will need to scratch the tungsten to the work piece (or the part it is resting on) before the arc starts. With high frequency the arc starts by simply moving the tungsten close to the work.

 

If you have small parts all aligned and ready to bond, and then you accidentally move them out of alignment by the scratch technique necessary without high frerquency, they may get out of place and you are back to square one.

 

Trust me, I've been in this business since 1963, and tig without high frequency is going to be frustrating.

Sure, you need it for aluminum. And you can do fine on larger parts of ferrous metal without high frequency, But when the parts become small (like reworking a Mauser extractor to accept the small 7.62x39mm) you need all the help you can get.

 

Just my two cents (as they say).

 

 

 

fritz

Well Fritz it seems like we both have been in the trade for a long time(I started welding in 1958) and I agree that for someone who has not had a lot of experience it may be frustrating but that is the rig I use and have no problems. It is certainly less expensive and with practice can be no more problem than high frequency rigs.

 

 

Though I have welded with oxy/act rigs before, I do not know anything about them. For someone like me that plans to weld small things like bolt handles, magazine boxes, and other little dirt dauber welding jobs, oxy/act makes a lot of sense. I have access to a Lincoln AC/DC crackerbox if I need to do any large stuff.

 

 

If you have access to an AC/DC cracker box you can get a dry TIG rig and a small bottle of argon and use it with the cracker box set on DC. That is the rig I use and it works great for gunsmithing . You do not need high frequency except for aluminum.

A.J.

I cant stone some of the areas on a m48 that is really rough  and the wheel isn't doing much any ideas on abrasives, compounds or wheels. the dremmel stones and sanding bits are only making it worse. I am using a  hf 6" buffing wheel and white rouge

 

Thanks

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There are some small flapper wheels available that would do except in the tightest spots.

Mike , hope you have success with the 3 way idea. I had tried similar without satisfactory results . Hopefully you'll get it to work as you envision. Keep us posted on progress.

A.J.

That's pretty close to how I envisioned doing it.  I thought I'd might try using the stock military safety lever, reshaping the existing portion that blocks the cocking piece into a cam shape that would push a spring loaded plunger forward in the existing hole to lock the bolt in the full aft position. 

 

I'll try to do a sketch when I get a chance.

 

Nice work on your drawings by the way, you'll be dangerous when you get the CAD program up and running! 

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Mike there are two problems I see with that way. I thought of doing the same but the size of the existing hole would not be large enough to accommodate the spring and plunger without reducing the size of the plunger shaft substantially.Also another problem is if the plunger were to jam in the lock position there would be no way of pushing it back to unlock the bolt. Maybe you have some other way of doing it.When you get the drawings done please post them

A.J.

I agree.  In fact, that's one of my beefs with the Chapman style.  Seems like there's more need to cycle the action while safed than to lock the bolt.  Still, that's how Paul designed it, and I think it would be an interesting academic pursuit to attempt it.

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Here is an idea for three way which might work. I'll do one to see if it's practical when I get some spare time.

IC1,

 

 

 

May I assume that yours is a two position?  It seems like you'd be able to make a rod/plunger (similar to the chapman style) that would be cammed into position to lock the bolt if one wanted.

 

Just to make sure I understand it, the ball and indent spring are intended to provide some slight resistance and a positive detent in each position?

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Yes it's two position. It could be done as you said in three position but I never felt the need for locking the bolt , besides being a lot more work involved.

Right again, I actually meant to write detent not indent. Too much Christmas cheer I guess.

Beautiful design IC1,

 

I'm going to give that a try!

 

The hardest part looks to be making the part to weld in.  How to you cut the radius?

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The hardest part is timing. ( getting the shaft hole in exactly the right spot to get it to move the cocking piece slightly rearward.) You can actually weld on a simple square piece and fillet weld the edges. you don't need the notch on top. Ido mine by counter sinking the shaft hole and cut away the outer half from the center of the hole and contouring with files and grinding. I try to get everything smoothed out to where it looks good.

O.K. I tried to do up some drawings on the safety . First cut the bolt shroud back at the top where the safety lever shaft goes . ( about 3/4 " ) then cut a piece of steel to shape as shown and weld in place

with the kocking piece in the kock position measure to the forward end of the kocking piece .remove the kocking piece and drill the shroud for the safety lever shaft. Safety lever can be made from original or make new one. drill and tap holes for detent ball and lever shaft lock. indent shaft at safe position and at fire position.

Bottom of lever shaft must be ground to shape at the fire position. bevel slightly at the back so as to push the kocking piece slightly rearward when engaged. Hope this helps.

IC1, are you welding on an "extra peice" to facilitate the safety?  Has a nice "finished" look, unlike the side-swing safties sold for original shrouds that leave unsuightly mill-cuts exposed.

 

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Yes I weld on an extra piece , then drill three holes where needed for lever, locking screw ,and indent ball, spring and plug screw. I'll try to do up a drawing. I've got Alibre CAD on my pc but I,m still trying to learn how to use it. Guess I'll have to do a crude hand drawing for now.

Most all military receivers made now I think are investment casting. I wouldn't put the 03-A3 down. It's a time and cost saving process in production. I don't know what the strength difference is but I'm sure they are perfectly safe.

alright Indian Creek, we're gonna need more info....  how did you do it, what did you use, everything....

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I'll try to do up a drawing but I'll have to get back on that. It may take some time to do . Here's a pic of the safety on my .35 Whelen.

Here's the way I do mine . model 70 style.