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Sorry for teh cruddy pics, indoor lighting dontcha know. Anyway, the barrel is finished. Normally I'd go a bit lighter but we're right at the sweetspot that Wolpack wants. I wish I'd have fitted the barrel first with the grossly oversize chamber section the barrel came with. These pics make it really hard to see the net affect but suffice it to say that removal of that 1/8" makes a huge difference in looks and more importantly balance. I'm gonna polish the receiver tomorrow and then fit the barrel, more pics when it is assmbled. Only thing to do after that is inlet the metal into the stock & test fire.

OK, fully chambered & cut to finished length. I managed to trim more than 1/2 lb off the barrel and improve its balance, its 24" long, and weighs a bit under 3 lbs now. Still need to adjust the contour a wee bit and do the final polish but it looks good on the receiver and headspace is at zero. I can't wait to test fire it.

Instead of buying a beater M48 spend $25 extra and get a new rebuilt one. then shoot the heck out of the 8x57. It is false economy trying to save a few pennies, litterally, using '06 brass. the cost of rechambering or rebarrelling will never be offset by brass savings. truthfully, there is almost no difference between the 8mm-06 and the 8x57. it is one thing to form 8x57 brass from '06, I do it for many of my less common cartridges.

Bob, those taps were made to prep the receiver for short chambered barrels which use 60 degree threads. In theory you could use both but I'm pretty sure the tap & die will set you back better than $100. You could also run into the problem of the die bottoming out due to the shank being too large in diameter. Like I said, on my 9.3x57 bbl I will be chasing the thread just like Walnut said. There is a good chane that you will need to setback one or both shoulders to get the barrel to fit. Headspace may or may not be correct. I have a new swede barrel and there is no way it will screw into my K.Kale receiver and headspace correctly without seing the lathe first. the shank on this barrel is too long. I have another 6.5 barrel in the from a customer's gun and it's shank would be too short. You might get lucky though.

Here's a pic of the barrel. A #3 Shilen was supplied but the #3 measures 1.250" just ahead of the shank. That is darn near the same as the SR receiver. So, on the lathe it went to trim the cylinder down to 1.100". When you do that the cylnder gets longer. That's how it is now in the pic. I still need to shorten the chamber end about 3/4" recontour the transition, then turn the shank & thread. Just triming that 1/8" off the diameter shed 1/4 lbs. More pics as I make progress.

I've got several swede barrel sthat are not consistent on thread size. It happens. Chase them until you get a good fit. One I have right now is a 9.3x57 bbl of a LR Husky sporter that mics 1.110". Another off a Husky 1640 mics .990 yet, another 1640 I recently did measures .980". So much for that Swede precision. It happes, swedes aren't the only rifles so afflicted. That's why it is a good idea to ALWAYS measure.

Jerry, That is coincidental. As you say, I hope that's as far as it goes. Don, no I fly out on the 23rd to drive it back. Got one more week and the suspense is killing me. Nice looking GMC.

Nice truck Bob. I had an 82 pickup that I use dto drive everywhere. The whole family loved that one even the mother-in-law. But, things went wrong with it last year and I didn't have a job so I sold it when my Dad gave me his '96 Chevy. I miss the old Truck but there are some nice thins about the new one. Only problem is it isn't a 4x4. I'll look for your email Jason.

Yeah, that's what I'm looking for too. The Jetta was nice because I could fit both kids and their car seats with some room. But, the darn thing had crappy window regulators that were always going out. I'm trying to book my flight now. Good news, I just won a Mexican mauser off GB for $42. -Say, we need to talk about pig hunting. I may be down that way this Xmas. If you're gonna be home we should get together. I gotta 8x60 that's dyin to put the hurt on a pig or two.

I needed a hunting/camping rig and something to drive in the snow here. I had an 86 Toy pickup that I just hated to sell but school was more important. Now I need to get rid of the Jetta and the Silverado and buy another econo box for commuting. Can't wait til the week after next when I get to pick it up and drive home. The Tundras are real nice. I was looking for an extra cab Tacoma but they want more than $12K for one with over 100K miles. No thanks. Maybe I'm just cheap, lol.

Toy(ota) that is. Tranny went out on my Jetta and this came up for sale for what it would cost to have the VW repaired. A good customer of mine was selling it. Gotta fly to Montana to pick it up. I love road trips. I've been needing a 4wd, my pick up isn;t much good once it snows.

What else did you do to the bolt? First thing that comes to mind is that the cocking cam on the rear of the bolt got soft. The stiffer spring would hasten wear. If the bolt shroud screws in easily then there is very little it could contribute to hard lift. Look to the cocking piece or bolt.

The solder I used then is similar to Hi Force 44 which I use now. It will do fine and stand up to caustic bluing. I set this rifle up as a pig gun and general purpose truck gun hence the iron sights.

Soft Solder. They work real well too.

Not hard to make just takes time. Here's a fairly decent closeup pic:

The only unit I'm aware of for mausers requires that you notch the charger hump or remove it in order to fit the sight. I elected to make my own that requires no alterations.

Reminds me most of a Polish Mauser. Is it a Small Ring 98 or LR? All those pics of the receiver make it hard to tell.

LC, a matched pair? Heck, I still have to finish the triplets for me and the boys. 7x57's. I say go for it.

Well, While waiting for the receiver(s) to come back from the heat treater I contoured this barrel. Recontoured would be more appropriate. The other was too bulky especially near the chamber. I wanted to improve ballance and lighten the barrel but at the same time retain enough meat so that it wouldn't heat up too fast. I recontoured the issue triggerguard. The receiver and bolt are fresh out of heat treating hence the odd color. The metal work needs a final polish and then bluing. I am awaiting the pattern stock. I have a very petite stock on the way. Now back to the customer's guns.

You've got mine. That's very sad news.

A go gage protruding .300" is a long way, especially if these are sold as being .050" short. that's six times the distance advertised. Being as the throat is not been cut, I have to wonder if these are chambered with a pilotless reamer. Winchester used to use pilotless reamers, it speeds up production.

Well done!

The Peruvian had a 7.65 bore (.311"). So, unless the barrel has been replaced, it's .311".

Trying to identify an unmarked barrel is basically a crapshoot? Any talented gunmaker can duplicate a contour so that's no help. As to accuracy, the proof is in the pudding. take it out and shoot it. Even the very best barrel makers occassionally turn out a dud that won't shoot. yes, the .30-06 can be rechambered to .300 H&H. Is it worth it? Only you can answer that. I have customers that will easily pay $1000 to have an action ground & polished and others who don't want to have the charger hump removed when having an action drilled & tapped. Only you can say how much it is worth to have that kool model 30 chambered in 300 H&H.

No, but if I'm not mistaken they are the same ones Brownells is selling.