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But if it's in print it has to be true, right?

Looks like a 98 to me. Whether it is standard or intermediate length will have to be determined upon arrival. I bet it cleans up nicely.

Happy birthday!

Best tool is clover lapping compound.

In the hypothetical higgins scenario I'd set the barrel back a turn to index the sights again at TDC. Then set headspace as required. I've done a ton like this. Most often due to barrel replacement or reuse on another rifle.

I use Timney 98's on them.

I like the 36 cocking piece but otherwise I prefer the 1910 myself too. but, I wouldn't say no to a 36 either, lol.

Looks like a Kar98a most likely. I have the later polish version of the same action. Your's doesn't have a step in it on the left side. I posted about the step/ no step in response to the question as to how can you identify if a small ring 98 receiver is small thread or large without removing the barrel. Well, the only way I know how is basd on my reply.

Yes, true small rings are supposed to be the pre-98's (cock on close, small ring receiver 1.300" ish, and small ring threads. Then we have the small ring 98's. These have all the 98 improvements but fall into three catagories as I see it. The first small ring 98's were the Kar 98's introduced in 1908 prior to WWI. An attempt at a lighter carbine. The were standard length 98's but they simply reduced the front ring diameter to 1.300"ish. These retained the large ring threads. This was not a great idea because these had the bad habit of becoming take down rifles. Next came the Mexican 1910 which was intermediate length and small ring diameter. It had small ring threads. This was later improved to the model 36. Lastly, the Czechs came up with the vz33 in about 1933. It was a standard length 98 of small ring dimension. It had small ring threads. It also had lightening cuts which consisted of, among other cuts, a stepped left sidewall like that found on the standard 98. Once Germany took over they produced it as the G33/40. These are the only two "small ring 98's" that have the stepped left sidewall. All the others retain the profile of the pre-98 small rings in that there is no transition (step) from the front ring to the sidewall.

Rather than try to describe this in words why don't you post a pic? I've never seen a small ring mauser of any flavor from the factory that had a step from the sidewall to the receiver ring. The exception being of course the vz33 and g33/40's I mentioned previously. I have a small ring mauser that measures 1.330" too, it has a step from the sidewall to the receiver ring. Why, simple, it used to be a large ring. For what it's worth, I just measured about a dozen small ring mausers, 8 mexicans, and 4 pre-98's, the ring diameter ranged from 1.290" to 1.315". Not that one can't measure larger.

The small ring, std length 98's with large threads do not have a step on the left. the receiver ring and left side wall are the same diamter. Unlike the standard 98 which drops off from the front ring to the sidewall. The Small ring Mexican lacks this step as do all the true small ring mausers (pre-98's). The G33/40 and the vz33 have the step.

No. No small ring, large thread Mausers with the stepped left rail But, the g33/40 and vz33 are small ring small thread and have the step.

I fit is standard length and the left side rail is not stepped then it is a SR L. thread action. If it's stepped, then it is small thread. IF it is intermediate length, then it is small ring. this all assumes it is a military action.

Rod would be a good guy to live near. He and I only get to converse on the phone, which I enjoy, but a face to face would be nice. Congrats on losing your headspace cherry.

Set Front sight height accordingly.

Vlad is correct. that 13/32 cutter will be way too big for the screw head. Brownells stopped selling these counterbores for a while. I got mine from a local supplier at one point. They are available but they are not a standard size.

Very Nice Don.

Those Heavy Tens are nice. Congrats. Oh, so too is a BP. Have fun, be safe.

Yup, a real nice rifle! Hmm, I feel like I've said that before, lol.

Don, no I wrestled with this one myself. The customer wanted to have teh bottom metal redone because he hated teh shape of teh bow. However, the stock unit is too narrow to do anything with. My only option woukd have been to cut the bow/rear tang off and weld on a new unit. this would have required too much time so he opted out. However, I have some thoughts on the subject if you'd care to call me. It would take too long for me to type out, sorry. In retrospect I wish I'd have installed the rear sight blade for the pic but I didn;t want it loosening up. It would have needed to be removed for the rust bluing.

Thanks, I try. The 9.3x62 is a real sweetheart. I prefer them on a Mauser actions just because they are a bit lighter but also have one on a Tang Safety Ruger 77. That is a real rough and tumble kinda gun. The integrated scope bases are great, just add some QD rings and you have a real nice "just in case" rifle. I rechambered this little Husky M146 from 9.3x57 to 9.3x62 recently.

It's their Universal. I think I have another lying around I'll try to meaure tomorrow for you. This one is already off to the stockmaker. Then off to Africa later this year.

I'm not that into these myself but that is a very clean example and tastefully altered. very nice find!

Wow, nice find. And here I thought I did well with the Pre-64 Model 70 Feather weight in .308 Win I got. Your type M might be a little nicer than the S type I got last year. Mine was one of the very last Mauser made. Congrats!

Thanks, It's a copy of an Oberdorf handle made by Halfmoon rifle shop. This thing will look sweet once it is stocked.