z1r

You do need to cut a chamfer on the chamber mouth. Do you have one of those rcbs case deburring tools? Otherwise a counterbore should work. I do all mine I the lathe so I don't have much helpful advice. Remove the barrel and at a minimum hit the edges of the chamber mouth with some 320, then 400 wet/dry. Congrats!

That's a mighty fine suggestion but who the hell has the time for exquisite detail? It's either write, which I hate, or build, which I love! As a matter of fact, I think I'm done posting for a while, maybe more. See ya!

That was funny. I enjoyed the heck out of watching that while I ate my steak!

Scope mounting is easy. You just attach it to the barrel. Bigger problem is the ejector designed for the massive rim of the .577-450 round. The Cadets are sweet looking rifles though.

Go No-Go Field that is shortest to longest. A field gage might be an expedient gage to use for determining if a milsurp is worth firing or not. But, any rifle you've had "professionally" rebarreled should NOT close on a no-go period! Just about every rifle will close easily on a go. I chamber mine to minimum specs so that it "JUST" closes on a go gage. There will be the slightest resistance that last few degrees or bolt arc. This assures me a slight crush fit on brass. Most folks just chamber such that the bolt will close on the go but not the no-go. That means the headspace can be anywhere from 0.000" to 0.006". Then too, the gage test may say all is well and the bolt refuses to close on a no-go gage while the rifle still has excess headspace. Hopefully they checked the lug seats for pocketing. If not, and some was present, you can get a false "good" reading and still have headspace issues.

If it were me, I'd have the action recarburised. Actions that old tend to run soft. They were fine for the powders of the time but today's powders are a different story.

I think you may be confusing two seperate posts perhaps. Then again I could be totally off base and missed something. I posted athread about the floorplates that had had a button added. I received mine but haven't yet taken & posted pics. The piece is fantastic! Way easier to use than those skinny Brownells detents/releases. I'll try to post some pics in the next day or two of the actual product. here were the pics I posted then: Note that this only includes the floorplate, no triggerguard mods are needed nor included. The narrowing of the bow was seperate. If anyone is interested speak up and I'll forward on the interest. Maybe you were confusing that with these pics I posted of a straddle floorplate?

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.asp Pacific Tool and Gauge PO BOX 2549 - 598 Ave C White City, Oregon 97503 1-541-826-5808 FAX: 541-826-5304 I never had much use for the .308 until I got one. Sure, the .30-06 is better, especially with heavier bullets, but I've grown to respect the .308. Enough so that I've bought built or bartered for 5 of them in the last year or two. I've built a few more but they went on to find new homes. One thing in favor of it and the .30-06 is lots of cheap factory ammo and bullet selection second to none. A lot of my selection criteria for cartridges is based on what ifs. For the what ifs I've come up with the .30-06 fits the bill. Now, if we want to talk about reality, the things I've actually hunted and am likely to hunt in the near future, the .308 would be a replacement that I could find no fault in. For all intents and purposes, these three cartridges are so similar as to be triplets.

Since you said an 8x57 sporter I'll assume you will be wanting to use the issue barrel. In that case, the main criteria should be barrel condition. When the yugos were being sold in near new condition they might get the nod simply because most barrels were as new. The actions were rough but shot good. If I were building a sporter and wanted to keep the original barel I'd let barrel condition dictate my purchase If I were shopping for an actions, I might have roughly the same list as Bilurey. Any of the German, Czech, Austrian, Beligian actions were good when made. The more important question is what kind of condition are they in presently? Many have been rewrked, some more than once. Judge each action by it's current condition.

I believe they are in oregon. I didn't have any info handy at the time. you can click on their link at Midway's website. I get al my reamers from them, good guy Dave Kiff is.

Pacific Tool and gage. They make all the reamers for midway too, even the ETC brand.

Jerry, It was a Boyd's nutmeg laminate. My finish consists of equal parts spar varnish (the kind with polymer additives), modified tung oil (I use watco), and mineral spirits. I slop it on the stock all day till it won't soak up any more. Then let it dry for a month. Scrape the finish down to the wood. then star your wet sanding. I use the left over finish and wetsand with it. Create a mud with the sawdust and let it dry a day or two (however long is needed until the finish isn't tacky). The move on to the next fine grade of sandpaper (wet/dry) and repeat the whole process. Now you know why it takes me so long to post finished pics. I've got the metalwork done except for bluing on 8 projects. Just need to get the stocks done. More later. Off to Disneyland, lol.

Death. not that common but it can happen. Generally just a ruined action depending on what the excess headspace leads to. It accelerates setback. If a case head seperates you can wreck the action and depending on what action you can suffer svere injuries. The 98 tends to handle these episodes with aplomb.

On the laminate? I used my spar varnish/modified tung oil finish. I use it on everything. Takes longer but I feel the results are worth it. It finished out real well and is practically water proof.

PTG will have them. Same price as all thier others, about $25.00

These are marked made in italy. At least the ones my acquaintances bought were.

It's not much more than a Mark X actions sells for. If you think that is high, look at these: http://rifleactions.com/nseries.htm Remember that there aren't many double square bridges out there. Originals are quite rare and there are few true Mauser square bridges available. Most of the clones out there now run upwards of $2000. food for thought, justto have a set of square bridge scope bases made would run you more than the legacy actions sells for.

That handle is not original it was added.

I'm glad you're not building my gun. After viewing it on my wife's computer I'd say this action is toast. The inner ring appears to have been cutaway and there appear to be some pretty big divots in places. Certainly not good for accuarcy not to mention safety. I'd just buy another.

If what spec4 says is true then I'd strip it for parts and move on. Better to have absolute confidence in your weapon than to forever forth question it's integrity. Also, like clemson said, especially on these Yugos with the safety breech, make sure the bolt is removed before attempting to remove the barrel. The extractor will get caught in the slot and will break off possibly scarring the action.

montea6b, Email sent.

Type 1 is used to establish the relationship between the bottom metal & receiver. You inlet the bottom metal first, then the receiver and the screws keep them properly aligned. Type 2 is used to complete the barreled action inletting process where you need to repeatedly snug things up. keeps you from buggering up the real screw and or slipping and marring your bottom metal or stock. Type 1 can be used for much of the initial inletting process then switch to type 2 as things are near final.

As far as I know they generally harden files to the same hardness no matter their intended use. FWIW, I've used mine on metal with no ill affect. there may be a better alternative out there but as yet I'm not aware of it. these are the easiest so far for working on curved surfaces.

90 degree file 60 degree file

Brownells sells triangular files just for this purpose. They are nice because the front is bent to allow better access. When I checker things like the bolt release I use it with no problems. They come in 60 or 90 degrees. The tool you are talking about would be nice if only to get a series of parallel lines.