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I can't stop laughing!!!!!!!

A friend of mine does the same thing only he welds a bit on there. Looks a bit more like the FN style safety bit of course requires more work. I think the interesting thing about his making them is he'd never seen nor heard about the FN style. Yours looks good.

Everyone knows I'm not much of a fan of synthetic stocks but the Butler Creek stock that came on the CD mauser I bought is it's only redeeming quality. Only thing I don't like is that it is cut for the side safety.

http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/4H/meatgoats/...ng/castrate.htm Even has pics, painful ones. My Oma used to believe that these types to include rapists needed to be strung up by their offending weapons. She was too forward thinking for her time!!!

If someone would pay for my MS I would be all over it. Look at it as another opportunity, one that could well pay off big in the future. You may not have to sporterize in the future since you could pay for all the custom smithing you wanted. Like karl said, there is a severe shortage of nurses, at least in my neck o the woods, and they are in need of teachers to train the new ones.

I was appalled when I found out how many sex offenders lived within a one mile radius of my house, and I live in a damn nice neighborhood. What the hell do you do though? I think the sex offender list is a neat idea but what do you do once you've found out one lives near you? You certainly can't organize a protest with fear of being sued! Maybe a midnight visit with the burdizzo in hand is in order?

In my day job I'm really a nice guy. Really, just ask all the people I haven't fired.

Viagra.

More potential ointment in the fly: If you go that route you will need a removable pilot reamer, one with the proper pilot for a .311 bore. In my experience 9 out of 10 dentists recommend. Oops I mean 9 out of 10 barrels tend to be generous with the headspacing. You can almost always face the breech to tighten things up. This usually gives you lots of room when rebarrelling. To be hoest, I'd be more incline to leave it as-is until you figure out whether the headspacing will be correct. If you already have the receiver in hand and the 7.65 barrel you should already know if the headspace will work. If it will, leave it as-is. If it won't, then the .30-06 idea is a good one. I have an -06 reamer you can use if you want to buy the proper pilot bushing for it.

I have the same idea. I just got an 1891 sans magazine. The barrel is in excellent shape. I was thinking of installing it on a Turk 98. the shank is long but I figured on using a false shoulder. Sort of a spacer/collar that would sandwich B/T the barrel's shoulder and the receiver. That would allow me to adjust headspace as needed and not use another reamer. You don't say what model your 7.65 barrel came off of nor what model action you plan to mate it to. Is it a LR bbl or SR? Mine of course is a SR.

It's not so much the feeding as it is the fact that the 6.5x57 is nominally the same size as the 7x57, 8x57, .270. .30-06, etc. So brass is easy to come by. The 6.5x55 can require a wee bit of work to fit & feed correctly but not usually. I like the 6.5x55 because the excellent atrget quality Lapua brass is cheap, relatively speaking. if you want a real neat 6.5 then consider the 6,5x68S. Long Range targets.

There are many ways to skin a cat. It is pretty easy to ream out to a larger case size if your setup is good to begin with. Some folks will use various implements including boring bars to enlarge the chamber enough so that the pilot will reach the bore. My more imediate concern would be with the case lengths. Not having looked at cartridge drawings I'd be concerned that teh Short Mag would be long enough to clean up the existing chamber. Width is not an issue but length could be. Worth verifying of course.

Welcome mimic. Here is what you have to look forward to when you complete yor project.

I'ts also not the worst. The sole example I've seen was far better than the half dozen or so Richards that I've used. Could still use some improvement but then again what couldn't. Considering the cost of teh JRS vs Richards, I feel the Boyds is a better value. Of course, you had better like the two stocks they have to choose from, lol.

The Rem deals with escaping gase by containment. The enclosed bolt head is at such close angles that the gases effectively form a block and contain themselves. The Mauser uses re-direction and good venting. Mostly, like Jimro said, it is hype. I believe the Mauser to be less prone to ruptured cases due to better casehead support. That's why even in mausers with lots of setback you still rarely get a case seperation, especially near the base.

The S&B brass is apparently not the best for reloading but since we are talking about only factory loads I believe it to be a good deal.

Jimro, The Fajen stocks were indeed nice ones. Much nicer I think than Richards, GAG, or Boyds. Still, I got the bottom metal pretty cockeyed on my first one. Stock makers screws & inletting screws are a must. I suspect that with just a bit of inletting black you can correct yours with minimal effort. Post pics when you're done/ -mike

Well, if you are looking for factory ammo then the 8x57 S&B is the way to go. If you still need more whallop and want an 8mm then the .325 could be the answer but you'd be better off just getting a new winchester for $400. It would cost you much more to have a barrel fitted to a mauser an dthen have all the feeding issues ironed out. If you think 8x57 ammo is hard to find, just try finding .325 wsm. You can easily mail order S&B. I think even Cabelas has a 50 cal ammo box full of the S&B. The others are even harder to find or as in the case of teh 8-06 a handload only proposition.

Jimro, The problem you describe is shared by most semi inlets. While they are cheap & convenient they rarely have good inletting. Normally, when making a stock from a blank, you inlet the triggerguard first, then the action. You will just have to jigger it a bit. Get some inletting black and have at it. Forget the damn dremel. Use a small chisel or scraper. Go slow and you will get a nice tight wood to metal fit. Use a dremel and you'll have an approxiamtion of the grand canyon in wood.

If you want to handload chew on this: It will cost you far less to get setup to handload then it will to rebarrel or even rechamber. The simplest answer is to buy European made 8x57 ammo, not US made. While S&B ammo is not the best, it is loaded much hotter than the wimpy US made ammo. And, it is cheap. Like some one already said, the 8x57 will do anything the .30-06 will do. Just don't tell my -06 that!

There are too many other good rechamber candidtaes in 8mm to warrant messing with the 325 WSM. Feeding will be your biggest problem, that and lack of magazine capacity. The 8x63 8x64, or 8x68 are all better candidates in MHO. The first two being practically plug and play and offering 5 round capacity. The 8x68 requiring a bit more effort but no where near as much as the .325 will. I think the 8x68 easily beats the 325 performance wise.

Here's another 416 rem. One of my favorite non mauser rifles.

Darn, Where did my very log reply go???? The p17 is fine for cartidges up tp the .375 H&H size or at least based off that case. The p14 is more desireable for the larger cases due to its bolt. It supports more of the case with its face than the p17 will due to its being of standard breech design not coned.

Rebel49, has described the basics of timing sights. And this is how you'd setback a sporter already equiped with sights. Or, you use this approach to determine how much to remove from a shoulder to set the sights to TDC like for instance if you are fitting a Rem 700 barrel to a Turk receiver. However, you needn't remove a full turn or so in order to re-align mauser sights. Remove only as much material from the shoulder as you need to set the headspace to zero. Then use a propane torch to melt the soft solder holding the sight bands on and reset them to TDC. You will likely have to shorten the hanguard hold down screw (on v24's & such).

Spec4, I've got an old Richards stock that is inletted for the M48. It started life as an M96 stock. I never completed it becuase I got a Boyds JRS laminate instead. This one has a rosewood tip and recoil pad, I think. It's yours if you want it. It's better than a military stock. I seem to remember that, like other Richards stocks, the inletting was generous. But, it is a decent sporter stock and I'm sur eyou could make something out of it. It's yours for the shipping if you want it. The recoil pad alone is worth that, lol. I'll check tomorrow to be sure it really has a recoil pad still attached.