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Here's a pic of a CZ550 in 9.3x62 I reworked for a customer. I removed the ugly factory bolt handle and installed this nice halfmoon handle. Fitted NECG sights fore and aft, cleaned up the action.

Hmm, Weaver has a reamer? Good luck christening it!

And this is what seperates a good forged handle from a bad. Nearly every one of those mass produced forged handles that used to sell on Ebay and now sell on Gunbroker neglect this step. Nice job. I was getting the hankering to do an 8mm-06 today, but I'll probably just do another 8x60 instead.

The 1935 is FN made vs the 1909 which was made by Oberndorf. The FN is likely to have better heat treatment as-is.

Ditto what Don said, $200 is a good price for a non pitted action. there is an interesting thread on Peruvians on AR. These are Turks but your Peruvian would be damn near identical.

There are only 4 model 1910 mausers I know of. Mexican, Uraguayan, Serbian, Costa Rican. The Serb and the costa rican use the Yugo style enclosed bolt face. the Mexican is an altogether different animal. And I'm not sure what the Uraguayan is. A mexican bolt in a Yugo or other intermediate bolt length receiver would be a bad thing. Grossly excess headspace results. Any true intermediate length bolt (not the Mexican 1910 or 1936) can be made to work in any intermediate length 98 action. Some assembly may be required. Alternately, if you are building from the ground up an intermediate bolt can be made to fit a Mexican action.

If you take a bolt and stick it in a 98 action you will see that that bolt could not fit into an action with a any kind of inner ring. The swedes for example don't have a ring and could fit that type of lug configuration. Makes me wonder if it isn;t one of those unfinished PH parts that have been floating around?

After further reflection that looks an awful lot like most Santa Barbara bolts I've seen with the exception of that extra material on the bolt lug. Specifically these look like some of teh Parker Hales that used Santa Barbara actions.

Heath, Good catch, I totally didn't see that due to the pop up window not being properly sized. I can't see how the heck that would fit into a receiver with either a "C" or "H" ring? Did this receiver have a an internal torque ring?

Rusty, yer talkin about the guide rib on the bolt. these were omitted on late war production as well as early post war production. As for teh so-called "H" ring, that started as early as late 48. Ijust received a 1948 made FN that is a transition action meaning it is the commercial (solid left wall) action but it also has a charger hump. It has the "H" ring. I also have it's twin made in 48 too yet it has the "C" ring. I have seen some '49's that had "C" rings. I think FN was all over the place during this time frame. These Israeli FN made actions were probably made it the '47-49 time frame.

Agreed, very well spoken. All the best spec4!

I tried today but all they had was poor incompletes. Without bolts they are useless. Too bad I wasn;t a bit quicker.

Yeah, basically get a big washer. Cut in half, grind out to fit onto shroud, weld into place. Make it look purty.

What are you willing to pay, that's the real question. Finding these SR Mexicans in non-pitted condition is a challenge. Even harder is finding an unmolested action. The '36's don't come up very often compared to the 1910 model which is also fairly scarce. I've paid anywhere from $100 to $400. The $100 example was sold as a 95 and came with a Redfield Receiver sight. I quietly ponied up the C-note and walked away. the seller had a huge grin on his face thinking he got the best of me, lol. I paid $400 for one cuz I wanted it now, not in 10 months after scouring the various guns shows and internet sites. I figured my time was worth more. Besides, I like to be able to physically inspect the action first. Unless you luck into one my take is that these days, based on what I see the actions selling for, $350 is a good price and $400 the ceiling. That said, I just sold one for $500. I had one spare and didn't really want to get rid of it. But the buyer really wanted it.

The 91 has the feed lips in the magazine, the 93-98 have feedrails. the 91 lacks these making a 98 style mag impractical. Shortening the mag is the most sensible approach but hey, anything can be done with enough time & effort.

Til the barrel contacts the shoulder then "bump" it.

Overtightening isn't the only way to pinch or mess up the receiver. I've learned to tripple check evrything. It's one thing to mess up your action, something entirly different to mess up some one else's. Ill fitting wrenches will also cause damage and so will proper fitting wrenches if you don't tighten them properly. Sometimes you'll tighten up a wrench and think it is snug. that is until you apply pressure and it slips becuase wihile it was snug, it was not "tight". What happens is teh bolts will bind and everything feels good until you apply pressure. these days I tripple check that the bottom of the wrench is actually SQUARE to teh bottom of the action. Then I gently apply some pressure to ensure that the wrench bolts haven't bound. Then, when I'm satisfied all is good, I whack the handle and off comes the action/barrel depending on how you look at it. When you do this long enough you will make a mistake; some sooner, some later. Like I tell my now 7 YO, you learn by making mistakes. Hopefully we don't repeat them.

The front ring is fairly thin. It is easy to compress the ring even if you don't distort it. Is uspect that the kimber rejects that the guy on GunBroker is selling were damaged in much the same fashion. though kimber may have had the proper tools they were trying to crank out as many as possible in as little time as possible. We all know what happens when that is the case. Anyhow, to demonstrate to yourself just how thin the metal is and just how much force even a lightly tightened wrench can exert on the receiver ring, lightly tighten an action wrench on the ring. Then insert a stripped bolt. Goes in easy, now, give a quarter turn or so on the wrench bolt(s). Try the bolt again. Reapeat until you notice the bolt starts to encounter resistence. There is a very small window from snug until resistence is met. We were told to insert a bolt when spinning an action off. They should have been clear that it was a stripped bolt but that's another story. I always thought it was BS and in truth it is unnecessary on a LR action however, this little excercise I've described will demonstrate that on a SR action it is not a waste of time. The bolt will keep the ring from being compress to the point of distortion and/or serve as an indicator of just how tight you have the action wrench. As far as I am concerned, life's too short to mess with a suspect receiver. Move on.

the Wisner kit is the one to use. I use the chapman fixture. Don Markey will likely answer, he has done many of these and also done a write up or two here I believe.

Looks Good!

I got some once from a local ACE hardware. I bought the black since I was doing a synthetic. it was where they sold the fiberglass repair kits. I could use an economy size in brown.

No, I merely bedded it correctly. Whoever stocked it originall did a horrible job inletting & bedding it. The barrel was barely inlet 1/3 of the way. The stock was a Mel Smart acra-bond laminate. Very nice stock. I have the barrel sitting at the halfway mark now and have corrected the other bedding issues. I swapped the guy my Ackley .30-06 barrel for his .376 Steyr barrel. Now I just need a reamer and sometime in the way distant future I'll have myself a .376 Steyr.

Rebarreled an FN from 3.76 Steyr to .30-06. The owner liked the .376 Steyr I built him on a 1908 Brazilian better and after killing 6 head of game with it this year e decided this one was no longer needed. I pulled the barrel and installed this PO Ackley barrel I had. Replaced the bolt with an original FN I had. Fitted the three position safety to the bolt. ***** safety note (when installing these be sure to check the safety in the third position too!) ***** This one would allow the sear to slip past when the trigger was pulled in the locked position but not in the safe position. Took some additional fitting to sort this out. Installed the NECG rear sight and williams front. Then adjusted the bedding so the abrrel was no longer pointed into the air and glassed it again. I'm just waiting for the front sight blade so I can install it and ship it off to him. It's a sweet rig weighing in at 7.5 lbs. 24.5" bbl.

That's super! Your checkering is very good indeed.

Sounds good unless, like me, you have gorilla arms. I like a LOP of 14.5" Felt like 80 here today, can hardly call it winter. Better luck tomorrow!