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Second that! My only issue would be that the LOP would be too short for me using the milsurp stock.

I have a 1918 Obie receiver, does that count?

Why bother with the wildcat when you can do a factory 9.3x62? Cost wise, custom dies are a real detractor. Though the cast .375's sure are fun. The 6.5x55 is also super with cast bullets.

Yes, basically a std length 98 small ring with the bolt stop removed and the ejector moved.

Not only will the std 98 bolt will not fit, if it did, it still wouldn't work. I have one of these actions that I am going to modify.

That's one I would not touch, assuming of course it is still intact. Very Nice!

I'm joining this one a little late but I hope you all had a very Merry Christmas. Here's to a better year for us all!

FYI, Most factory '06 ammo is loaded to no more than 3.230" or so. I once tried about five various factory loads ranging from 168 gn target loads to 180 gn spitzers and all fit in the issue magazine. That said, there are some factory lads I'm sure which won't fit and should one decide to go this route just know in advance that you may be faced with choosing factory loads that will fit the magazine or handload to the appropriate length. My advice for someone wanting to go this route and NOT modify their mag or action is to decide on which loads you will be using and check the mag first. It is a compromise for sure.

Ditto.

A lot. Measure, or look at a drawing of, the shoulder of the .308. Then see where on the .30-06 case it measures the same. That will give you the answer.

Love your website! Especially liked the range trip story. Just wait till you load those 286's to 2400+. Amazing how much more attention 200 fps draws. Of course, mine weighs a good bit less than yours. With that 25.6" bbl on yours you should be able to get 2500+. No buff will walk away from a properly placed shot. A Twede would be nice. Real Milsurp barrel or commercial? I've acquired three 6.5x55's this year and can't get over how much fun they are to shoot. Almost makes my 257 Bob seem supurfluous. In fact, were it not built on a SR Mexican I would dump it. I'm finishing up two 9.3x64's and one 9.3x62 at the moment. As some one on another sit eis fond of saying, "there are no fleas on the 9.3's."

R Famage makes it a Columbian Mauser made by FN. The were converted in 1952 to .30-06 by reboring the barrel, rechambering to .30-06, lengthening the magazine, massaging the feed ramp, and notching the rear of the receiver. Most of these conversions had teh FN markings ground off. The Styer made Chilean 1912's were converted to 7.62 Nato and are marked with a -61 suffix added to the original Model 1912 markings.

Amen, Brother! The troops have nothing but my utmost respect and gratitude. This includes those not in combat.

Mauser, actually DWM, was being smart and saving money in the process. The outside surfaces don't need much if any hardening so reusing material makes perfect sense. Again, lug seats were, on the whole, fine for the spec cartridge. The fact that these receivers exhibit setback quite frequently has nothing (directly) to do with the methods used for case hardening. Instead, you have to realize that they were hardened to spec. That spec being set by the contract negotiated with Argentina which also included the ammo to be used. The receivers were adequate for the rounds spec'd in the contract. That does not make it ok for today's powders or today's cartridges. Maybe a crude analogy might be a car engine. Say a '68 Hemi was adquate as built for the 425+ HP it was rated at. Now let's say someone changed gas formulations that netted 50% extra HP simply by running the new gas. That same engine that was perfectly fine with the original formulation would now be under-built relative to the new gas' buring characteristics. Make sense? In other words, 1909 Argentines were fine for the original 7.65x53 round they were built for but not modern powders. They WILL develop setback. How quickly is the question.

Steyr is the manufacturer of the Chilean 1912. It will have their name along the side rail. If it's clean I'd keep it. Good clean actions are hard to find these days. Everytime I get the urge to purge I realize that the $100 to $150 I pocket today will buy me almost nothing and down the road I can expect to pay a bunch more for a lesser quality action. My take anyway. However, I'm puzzled because the 1912's were converted to 7.62 NATO not .30-06. Typically Brazillian, Columbian or Peruvian short rifles were converted to '06. Most of which were made by FN.

Jimro, You misunderstand. What I meant by pack hardening is that carbonaceous material was used on important surfaces like lugs & lug seats, cocking cams, extractor cams, etc. Previously used material was used on (packed onto) less critical areas. That's why the outside surfaces will test really soft but may not truely indicate how hard the "important" surfaces are. That's why, when having a receiver heat treated, a facility that uses a method that envelopes the entire part is prefered. that way when you test an exterior surface you get an accurate representation of the more important inner surface.

Sorry, I think I write too quickly and what I write is too short. Don't mean to come accross so curtly. The DWM receivers were pack hardened so they will test real soft on the outside. They are harder on the inside where it counts but they are still soft in the scheme of things. I got four of the New unissued FMAP receivers and they are as hard as any VZ24 I ever had tested. I also have two older FMAP receivers and they too are adequate, enough so that I will build a .376 Steyr on one.

No, the German made receivers tend to be soft. The Argentine made receivers were made later. Early examples may be soft but later made receivers are harder.

No, I'm saying that in the American tradition some people will will want to be able to do things themselves without having to depend on others. On the whole however for the reasons I listed there are fewer sporterizers hanging out on boards, not just this one. With the exception of the Remington 798 there are no new mausers being built, most were built over 60 years ago and the imports have slowed to a trickle. Seems to me though that there are plenty here who are still building their own rifles and a good many that are interested in doing so and still others that want a Mauser hunting rifle but may just want to get ideas on how to go about getting one. Seems to me that every year we experience a slow down. Given that many folks have taken quite a beating over the last year economically speaking its not hard to imagine that sporterizing whether DIY or farmed out would slow.

Wow, I hide offline for a few days and this is what I come back to? If you WANT to do the work and have the tools and perhaps more importantly the time, then have at it. There is great satisfaction is being able to say you did something yourself. Some folks feel it is more important than having "guild quality' work. Others feel a show piece is more important. I personally don't see that the two are mutually exclusive. However, for safety's sake, farming out work may sometimes be the more prudent choice. Sometimes it makes more economic sense, and sometimes it's worth doing if only do get a first hand look at how something should be done. I think each individual needs to make this call based on what's important to them. All professionals went through a learning curve, they weren't always as adept at their tasks as they are now. I certainly wasn't. But I did appreciate those that had the talent posting pics of their work so I has something to aspire to. I've also found in my various careers that those with the least amount of experience often had some of the best ideas. They aren't yet trained to ONLY think of things in one way. If you enjoy doing the work then have at it and screw anyone that berates or belittles you. At the same time, anytime you post a pic or ask for opinions on the internet you are opening yourself up to some extent. We all form opinions (prejudices) based on our experiences that are often hard to overcome. And sometimes people just don't like what you have to say. As with most things you can ask ten gunsmiths how to do something and get ten different answers. I think that sporterizing has died down for several reasons, time of year, economy, lack of cheap imports. Five years ago everyone was selling cheap mausers. Today good actions are harder to find and the good ones cost more. Heck, the bad ones cost more too. This cool down seems to be reflected by both Miday and Brownells cutting back on the number of tools, fixtures, replacement parts they carry. There are far more products available for AR's, 700, and 10/22's because the demand is greater. But, there will always be those that will want to do it themselves. Kudos to them.

Care to post a link? I'm curious to see what you can buy for $50.

All three ways. The solder on option requires a real close fit and will look pretty good when done. You will have to look close to see the seam. Screw on will look screw on but if you incorporate the scope ring rails into the faux bridge the rings will cover up the screws and will only be visible if the scope is removed. Welded will require lots of work of course and you will have to have teh receiver heat treated. Hard to put that much heat into the front ring and not warp something. Then you have to contend with warpage when heat treating. This method when done right will give the most suthentic look when done.

Amen to that. I make good money off of people that think they are getting a good deal on an action because it has correctible problems like off center holes for example. By the time they pay me they could have bought a nicer action for less. Now, if they are having other work done, like surface grinding for example, then the additional cost is minor. Or if the action is fairly scarce it can be worthwhile, but too many times I've seen folks get burned buying what they thought were killer deals. I can essentially fix my own actions for free but even then, the time involved makes it far more attractive to just start with an unaltered action. I used to buy lots of donor rifles where I was after components and not the actual rifle as a whole. Often the receiver may have been drilled & tapped wrong so I get it cheap. After stripping it for parts I used to try to fix them, now I just $h!tcan them. Or, save them for the time when no more imports will be allowed and the used market dries up and people get really desperate.

You want to be a real good weldor. The Mexican muasers tend toward the softside already. Heat control is a must.

The issue I have is that it isn't hard to wear channels in the bolt that way. To ensure you keep the raceways straight, use a stone(s). It is hard to control where the lapping compound goes. And, the bolt wobbles. YYou want a smooth straight surface, not a wavy one. However, in this case the technique isn't even relevent due to the amount of material you might have to remove. The commercial rib is about 1/8" shorter. How much needs to be removed? hard to say but more I'm sure than lapping is practically suited to. Hoe that helps.