lemski4

Even 20 years age, 35.00 wasn't even close to a days pay, not to mention rent on a store front, water, gas ect on said building, and FFL fees. A guy comes to you with a useless gun, and 35.00 later he has a fully functional gun, what the hell? I know I wouldn't have done it in front of him while he waited, but their are no guarantees it's a slam dunk every time just because you think you have the right tool. A guy brought me a rifle to mount a scope on that the scope mount plug screws were stuck, after he tried to do it him self and buggered up one screw, good thing he stopped where he did. It took 2 1/4 hours to get the four screws out with out messing up the threads, and about 15 minutes to mount the scope. What do you think a fare price to charge for doing that is?

As far as the topic at hand, I'd say someone who has completed a Gunsmithing program at one of the many colleges around the country, and not one of the corespondents courses through the mail or internet, for starters.

I just built a 6.5x55 for a good friend this summer. He'll be taking it hunting this deer season and I want to see how it does on game. On paper it shoots really good. I'm really curious about the 6.5 caliber, with the high sectional density, and high ballistic coefficient bullets, I think it'll be a real go getter. I really want to build a 6.5-06 Ackley, or a 6.5x55 Ackley for myself.

Way to go, there's meet for the freezer. I plan on stalking my freez up to the hilt.

All scoped, sighted in and ready to go hunting, season opens Nov. 30th. I plan on videotaping my first deer using the 416 Taylor and see how my load, and bullet combination works on KS, White tails. After that I think I'll put it up and use another rifle for a little more longer range hunting.

Here is what I found for no Gunsmithing scope mounts for 98 Mauser. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22431/Product/MAUSER-98-SCOPE-MOUNT http://www.scopemounts.com/index.html?main.html

I thought about kind of the same thing only in 358 cal, 35x57?

Beagles are good dogs, I have two, and they are so goofy and are just fun to watch. My two caught a rabbit last winter the first day it snowed right in the back yard, didn't even have to start the truck or fire a shot.

As long as you didn't go more than .0833 to deep you can set the barrel back one thread. Otherwise rechamber for something longer like 30-06, or something longer. Or you can ship it to me and I'll pay the freight.

I'm not quite sure on that, maybe it has been misunderstood or misinterpreted, all i know is the instructor for that class was from England and did his apprenticeship at Holland & Holland. The breach end of the barrel should touch the inner breaching ring when tight, and the .002 crush is on the shoulder. Otherwise you would be forcing the inner breaching ring rearward which wouldn't be a good thing.

When in Gunsmithing school, mind you this is on a 98 Mauser, the .002 crush is built into the barrel shank length, so that when the breach of the barrel is tight against the internal breaching ring their is a .002 crush because you cut that length .002 short on your barrel shank. I do not like doing that, so I don't, but I still tighten them on tight.

I'd say your limited by your nag box length, not caliber. A lot of the type 38 japs were rechanbered to 6.54x257 Roberts, but if your rebarreling one I would look at something worth while,

Yes it was on a 98 Mauser and maybe a little if any but I don't notice it at all.

Unless something new has come down the line in the last 20 years the Rem 788 used to have the fastest lock of any factory rifle out. And I used to think like the rest if it isn't broke don't fix it, but two years ago I had more than one miss fire with factory ammo and on the second or third try some would go off. Now the next time you make an order from Brownells, or midway put a Wolf 30 pound spring for your 98 on your order and tell me it's not worth the 8 and change, or 5 and change dealer price. Even on a hunting rifle you will notice a big difference. I missed several deer that year because of it.

"with the correct pitch on the butt stock, along with a nice pad, and weighing in at just over 10 lbs." Their are a lot of factors than can enhance , or take away from felt recoil. Stock design, weight. recoil pad ect... Like I said before it is more of a big push like a 10 gauge simi auto shotgun. In my case I would much rather shoot this rifle off a bench , than the 7 Mag I built 20 years ago, which I wish I still had.

I used to think 35 cal was big. This is my first real big bore, and with the correct pitch on the butt stock, along with a nice pad, and weighing in at just over 10 lbs unloaded it's a blast to shoot.

I used to think 35 cal was big. This is my first real big bore, and with the correct pitch on the butt stock, along with a nice pad, and weighing in at just over 10 lbs unloaded it's a blast to shoot.

Yes this is the 5th A&B barrel I've used so far, and all shoot very nice.

I ran across a deal on an old Redfield 3-9 Tracker scope and mounted it in Talley Q.D. rings and loaded some ammo and finally got around to going to the range today. It was in the mid 60's very little wind and all went pretty well as far as I can tell. I was wondering how the A&B barrel would shoot and I'm pleased, under an inch @ 100 yards off a bench. Recoil wasn't very bad off the bench either.

Starting with A hand tight barrel, you will need an action wrench, and barrel vice after a meager amount of shots fired to remove. So they self tighten, i don't put a lot of torque on them when installing them, maybe 45-50 ft. lbs. of torque, but that is a guess as I don't have a way to measure it with my action wrench.

Yes the A&B barrels are a little heavier than most others. I myself do not mind a rifle a little heavier than normal, as long as it balances correctly.

Might help to increase the speed of the drill press a little.

If in doubt call MSC, if it is made they have it, and good quality as well. Just make sure your bit's have the 118 degree point, and with small bits I try to use the shortest bit I can as it will be more rigid.

Yes it has been shot, but that is about it since I ran out of funds and couldn't put sights on it yet. My scope is on it's way, and once it gets here I'll see what size rings I need and then I can sight in and work up a load for it. Recoil is nothing like I was expecting, a big push about like a 10 gauge shotgun, man I love that 1 3/8" Kickeez pad. Once scope is mounted, I may have to add some weight to the butt to get it to balance correctly, big bore barrels are usually fat and heavy. The barrel I used for this rifle was a Midway house brand/A&B barrel. I'm chomping at the bit to get it sighted in and see how it shoots, and take it hunting this year. I'll keep you posted.

Here is a ling to the product I use http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7604/product/BELGIAN_BLUE It is simple, heat water in a stainless tank or pot depending on the size of what you are working on. let parts set in boiling water to get hot pull out and wipe on Belgian blue and put back in boiling water for 5-10 minutes. Take parts out they should look chalkey and card off with a carding wheel or fine steal wool, and back in the boiling water, and start the process over as many times as needed to get the color wanted. It's a very simple process to do it just takes time and man are the parts hot, you'll need a good thick pair of rubber gloves. It's kinda fun to do except the day I did mine it was 111 degrees outside, and with the boiling water in the garage it was almost unbearable with all the humidity. Do a search on the process, there are a few more details like decreasing everything, parts steal wool, and carding wheel, pluging barrels on both ends, and soacking in oil after you are done.