lemski4

Walnut: The stock was a very light colored piece of walnut. Mixed in some stain in with the finish, came out a lot better than I expected it would.

Rivitir: I got my parts from several places. Barrel from gunparts new unknown maker 28.00 action from gunshow, trigger Midway, safety Brownells, stock from my Dad. Ken98K: The spacer block is a piece of nylon, and I have a plastic follower with a wire spring. It works but I don't like it. Will be changing it out to a metal follower and flat spring. I do think I'll make a longer ejector for it.

Several years ago I decided to build a small ring Mauser in 7.62x39. I collected parts for quite a while, and finally barreled it up, another couple of years go by and I finally stocked it and finished it. Well I took it out to the range the other day and got some promising groups, 1.6" @ 100 yards with round nose 30-30 type bullets( it's all I had around the house at the time ). I think there is a lot of room for improvement with better/pointed type bullets. Any way I'm going to take this rifle hunting this December. This rifle was built on the cheep I have 215.00 in it Plus the mount, rings, and scope.

They are 50 degree Whitworth thread and not 60 degree ASE.

I have built two so far, one a 35 whelen imp. and the other a 7-08 Imp. both shoot flawlessly with no signs of setback. The 35 whelen imp. has had about 250 rounds using 225 pills through it.

I'm in the process of building a 7.62x39 myself and although I plan on shooting hand loads in it, the main propose was to be able to use the cheep ammo if need be. Although I'd like to expect more than 2 MOA with hand loads, I could handle that. But the nicest thing is on the spur of the moment I could go pick up some cheep wolf ammo and go have some good cheep fun plinking. It all comes together when you take a gun that you built hunting, and you harvest game with it.

I'd start off with a single stage press, years ago I bought a rcbs starter kit, the press was a small alum. press, worked just fine. Now I use a rcbs rock chucker, a lot nicer press, but I still use the old small press and have a universal depriming die in it. Comes in handy now and then. I've got some great deals at gun shows, pawn shops ect. Do your home work and know what the equipment sells for new between the different brands before you buy anything used. I usually try not to pay more than 50%- 60% of new price for loading equipment. I don't know if ebay still will let you sell loading equipment or not but in the past I've bought a lot of things there.

Will do but first I need to finish the rifle, action is barreled but still need to D&T action, do bolt handle, and figure out what kinda safety i want to use, and hang a trigger on it.

Thanks for the information!

Does any one have any start load data for the 7.62x39 using 22 cal sabots?

I did get 2 white tails, a buck, and a doe so far. Kansas has a split season and reopens New Years day I have two more doe tags left. This is the first time I've hunted with my 7 Mag I built, it's on a 09 action and has a piece of English walnut for a stock, and a P.O. Ackley barrel. I built this rifle 16 years ago when I was going to Gunsmithing school in Trinidad, co. here are a couple of pictures of the rifle.

Yes you can use Alum. Oxide with the right pressure, I used my cnc vinyl cutter to cut the masking. no doesn't go deep enough to use anything over the top

I've seen some steady rests that have nylon rollers on the tips?

yes you can use glass bead to etch barrel or action, Check out the etching I've done on a few rifles. http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=5385

What's the usual turn around time?

What is the cost of having an action heat treated, and who should I contact about doing this?

I've herd of it but not done it personally. I always like to leave myself a way out, If I'm going to weld a bolt handle I prefer to weld on an extention at the end just in case the weld didn't take good. Granted you are dealing with 50-100 year old steel, of unknown makeup, So if it does come loose at least you have something to grab a hold of to open the bolt, and to try to reweld to.

On my bolt handles I usually cut the handle just in front of the knob, and then get another replacement bolt handle contour the knob and usually knurled it and cut about 3/8" up from the knob. Weld it to the bolt handle and then forge over.

Kind of a personal thing but what i like on my rifles.

Is that an Ed LaPour 3 position safety?

Awsome pictures. I love that part of the country. Some day I'll get back to the desert.

Mine is steel and works just fine.

AZ, yes i did the jeweling, and as soon as I set up to do another bolt I will jewel that one as well. I do a lot of trading at gun shows so I'm always bringing something back useful, it just might be a while before I put it to use. That is how this project came about. As far as the stock No I didn't do the checkering It is a fajen worsaw stock I got in a trade a few years back. The hole thing about this project is once I found the right barrel it all seemed to fall in place with things I ALREADY had laying around.

It is a butress thread, and it can be turned on you're lathe. You will have to grind a tool bit for it, use steel not aluminum.

Here's the pictures of the safety taken apart. The rectangle slot in the side of the shroud is all done with a square needle file after drilling a small hole to get it started.