GunnerHAF

I have a project that I am working on. It's a Spanish 93 Mauser thats been butchered a long time ago. I have been working on it on a off for a few years to make something usefull out of it. I am to the point for a scope base. The question is will a small ring 96 1 piece base fit on this 93 Spanish mauser? If not what other options do I have with out having to have a base made?

My scope is a IOR 2.5-10 X 42 with the MP-8 reticule on a 20 MOA Farrell 1 piece base in TPS low rings. And rings were lightly lapped in. Every thing when torqued looked good. I was just trying to get the most travel in elevation out of the scope as I could. The zero is not bad I just have to hold on the first top mil mark to zero at 100 yards. And yes it is close to zero at 300 on the center dot. I was just trying to make things easy with a 100 yard zero and keep things simple. Even with this hold over she still shoots sweet. Thanks for the help.

I built me a tatical rig in 308 out of a K98 action I had. I got one little problem, on my 20MOA base I ran out of down travel on my scope. The rifle will shoot about 2 1/2" high at 100 yards. Anybody have an idea on what size shim I should use to get the elevation back in check.

Well finaly got it done! That bit from Brownells did the trick. It made the job a whole lot easier. I only thought it was hard on top, the underside was even harder. I had to put a little bit more pressure and a lot more cutting oil to get through it. Tapping was a lot more fun. Took my time and I tried not to get in a rush with it but I managed to break a tap in each hole. Took all your advice and bought the hard taps so they just shattered out of the holes.I finally finished with the taps and chased the holes and ended up with 4 perfect holes that lined up perfect with my base. I would have never thaught that the 98K reciver was this tough. I have drilled a few VZ and Yugo recivers and none of them were this tough. Well live an learn. Thanks to all, gunnerHAF

That is what I was thinking. With trying to drill through the bridges bolt guide I was thinking that it might be hardened all the way through. I might spot aneal after I get the holes drilled to try to keep the heat to as small of an area as possible the try to tap them.

Thanks I'm going to order one right now. But will this problem have any affect on trying to tap the holes.

I'm trying to drill and tap a K98 reciver for my scope mount but I ran into a little problem. I was able to drill and tap 2 of the holes in the front ring of the reciver but I have already dulled one bit and broke a second on the rear bridge of the reciver. Is there a trick for drilling through real tough case harding beside dulling and breaking bits.

Yes I did that too thanks to Steve Wagner's web sight. I built the jig just like he explaned it, and used my drill press a little patiance and time, presto i had a jeweld bolt and bolt release spring. Needless to say this project took me about a year to finish, but I just about got the rifle I wanted.

No Jerry this one I bent and forged myself. P/U a wheeler bolt forging block and heat sink of ebay a while back. If you could see the rifle closer there are a few things I could have done better, especially in the inletting and glass bedding of the action and barrel. I guess that will come with more practice.

It will shoot under an inch when I do my part.The rifle shoots better than I do. I put a Shilen #3 barrel on it and coated everything with Brownells teflon/moly flat black baked on finish. And yes this is very addictive. I just got a barrel in from ER Shaw for My M24 project that I'm building in 6.5x55 Sweed.

Sorry the pictures are a little fuzzy but I just figured out how to post pictures in here. Well this is my first sporter project. Its a vz24 in 30-06 placed in a Boyds JRS clasic stock.