brokengun

This is just my opinion on the issue so… I hope I don’t upset anyone. Keeping peace and harmony at home is more important than worrying about your hard work being under appreciated by your relatives. That said I understand your hesitation to bust your tail and have what you build under appreciated and possibly ruined by others. You say it’s a cedar chest that your mother in-law wants you to build? How about building a chest out of plywood instead of cedar wood but when you stain it add a bottle of cedar oil for smell into the stain. At least that way you won’t be giving away your high dollar cedar and maybe the plywood will hold up a little better. Just a suggestion. P.S. there’s always the possibility that your mother in law would like to have something nice that isn’t ruined. Sometimes brownie points come back in ways we can’t imagine. You never know your mother in law may hit the jack pot some day and want to share with her favorite son in-law. So ... building the best damn cedar chest you ever made for your mother in-law may be an option. Older women like giving cedar chests away as heirlooms maybe your mother in-law has something in mind for your chest other than letting it be destroyed. Is anyone getting married in your family in the near future?

Azrednek; I have been hearing that some gun shows are now asking for the last 4 digits of your social security number or all of your social security number to get into a gun show. I’ve also heard they do this after they take your money. Is this true? I know that with the illegal gun control laws on the books that ID is required to buy a gun but just to walk in the door seems wrong. I remember when we could buy guns through the mail with NO background checks at all. I know it’s been 41 years but to me it seems like yesterday. I’m still amazed at how much this country as fallen. P.S. Sounds like the economy is finally catching up to the heated demand for guns or maybe it could be that gun purchases have hit a saturation point. My guess is saturation point. Gun owners have purchased 12 Billion rounds of ammo in the first 10 months of this year and have overwhelmed reloading supplies. Add in the estimated 8 Billion rounds of ammo already in the hands of the people and I would say we have a bit of ammo. (8+12 =20)

Sailoermilan2; PLEASE get yourself tested!!! Some states health departments have testing procedures that keep this information confidential, so unless you share the info NO one else will know. I sense you’re an upright guy and your feelings for this woman maybe very strong. The reason I think your girl friend is at the hospital is because this guy is the father of her children. I’m going to say her real concerns here are for the well being of her children and not necessary of her ex. Personally I don’t like to talk bad about anyone but this guy has chosen a path that is very dangerous and staph infections often occur is this type of life style. (I’ll leave it at that) Like another poster said this women is your girl friend and not your wife, be there for her and her children if that is your wish, but protect yourself. And PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE get yourself tested!

More information is coming out on the shooter. WND is reporting he helped advice the Obama transition team. http://www.wnd.com/index.php?fa=PAGE.printable&pageId=115230 Plus thus peaceful (sick) Islamist pushed Islam on his patients. http://www.wnd.com/index.php?fa=PAGE.printable&pageId=115231 The fact that this guy was parts of Obama’s transition team tells me this so called main-stream peaceful Islamist is not alone in his anti-American view point. I might up-set someone but in my opinion Islam and Christianity can not live side by side. Islam as a religion is first and foremost in the minds of its followers; nothing else matters. Their view is that everyone must become a member of Islam or be killed. The USA is a Christian nation or at least was founded as such; the conflict that will ensue if Islam is allowed to get a foot-hold in the US will eventually lead to the end on the USA or mass civil unrest. Like I said I not trying to up-set anyone but oil and water doesn’t mix and neither does Islam and Christianity.

Montea6b according to the book by Raymond Benwood you can build one of his receivers using the size of lathe you just bought A guide to the drilling reaming and broaching a bolt action receiver at home by Raymond Benwood http://www.scribd.com/doc/3615602/BA http://www.jpfo.org/filegen-a-m/boltaction.htm http://www.scribd.com/doc/14066913/Selfmade-Mauser-bolt-action-receiver

Damn nice rifle the fact that you did 2 rifles in one day makes me envious. I have got projects in the works since 1998 and the list is growing. I tried to copy and paste the mosinparts.net web site into the browser and had no luck in finding the web site. Can you please share an active link for that site I need a Mosin Nagant bolt like the one you have. I bought one off of anti-gun EBay before they banned the sale of bolts and the bolt won’t work with a scope. I noticed you parkerized the parts before you sprayed stainless steel duracoat. I don’t have a park set up, what do think about using just the duracoat What kind of park set up do you have maybe I need to get into Parkerizing

The last time Europe was set ablaze the British begged Americans to send them rifles on the “PROMISE” that after the war they would be returned to their rightful owners. After the war the Limey’s decided it was to expensive to send the Americans back their guns so they cut off the barrels and used them for rebar in their sidewalks and then scraped the receivers. Well history tells us that the London bankers funded Hitler and then acted surprised that a new war started in Europe. This time the Bankers can buy their own guns and I won’t be shedding any tears if the Bankers get their just reward. P.S. Britain I my mind still owe the American people several million small arms, a debt that I expect to still be paid!!!

Just looked up the case head size for 300 WSM and it looks like it would fit but WOW! Is that thing ever a screamer! Has anyone chambered a Mosin Nagant to 300 WSM? I’m looking for some load data on the round while typing; my first thoughts are that the chamber pressure will be a little high for the Mosin Nagant but… Found it! Oh my GOD! The 300 WSM has a maximum chamber pressure of 53,000-64,800 cup with the average being around 60,000 That’s a bit much for the MN with its medium carbon steel receiver Ok I just found the start load data and its more to earth 37,800-46,400 cup Phew… Ok it looks like as long as you don’t hot load the 300WSM they will work just fine in fact it may make that old MN one damn cheap long range shooter Has anyone tried to see if the 300WSM will feed through the MN magazine? Load data on 300WSM http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/PerCaliber2Guide/Rifle/Standarddata(Rifle)/308Cal(7.82mm)/300%20WSM%20Winchester%20Short%20Magnum.pdf

The info that I have is that the MN has a shank diameter of .980 with 16 tpi with a shank length of .937 I do know that the thread is also timed for the extractor cut to line up properly. I’ve often wondered what it would be like to make a new bolt head and allow the action to use other cartridges other than the Russian 7.62x54R

I dont like to sound like a broken record but I would keep the barrel in the 22-24 inch range.

Doble troble is right the best way to learn how to use a lathe is to start operating one When I bought my lathe I had never used one in my life. Yes I’ve seen lathes run and I read about using a lathe but I had never used a lathe before. The South Bend Books maybe the best for the money The only thing I don’t like about the low cost entry level lathes like 9x20 and even the 11x26 is the low end speed being 120-150 rpm. For a first timer cutting threads it can be little un-nerving to get used to cutting threads at that speed. My South Bend has a back-gear and I think the speed is 26 rpm (maybe wrong) but my point is its real slow. I sometimes do internal threading if I don’t have a tap and that super slow speed sure is nice. That said I’ve seen guys cut thread so fast it would scare off a first timer

Some companies are offering an 11x26 lathe which has a 1inch spindle bore which is larger than the 9x20 lathes. The weights not bad and the chucks offered are bigger it looks to me like these would make a good lathe for people strapped for cash and room.

If you have an AC stick welder I would use a 7018AC Hobart rod When I was done I would stress relieve the weld (heat to a dull red)with a propane or if a little more heat is needed MAP gas torch and let cool I would then reheat the part to the point where it would no longer attract a magnet then I would quench in oil until cool To anneal try covering it in sand on a cookie sheet and place in your house hold oven at the highest setting (550-600 degrees) for 1 hour and let cool The part will be very hard but hopefully safe and useable I would try this with the worse cocking piece you have. However please remember that cocking pieces and sears are the key to safety and risking injury or life to save a few dollars isn’t worth it when replacements available. Now if were talking survival or spare parts for emergency use then I would go ahead and try to repair the parts. Just a few thoughts, I like to be on the safe side and I’m sure you do too Brokengun

Diggerdanh I remember when I bought my lathe; its invigorating especially when you thread your first barrel and don’t screw it up. My lathe is an old 16x60 south bend tool room lathe its nice but because its big its also expensive when I have to buy parts Diggerdanh I suggest you look for a good used 9x30 or 10x30 south bend lathe. A new 7x12 mini lathe will set you back $500 but you should be able to buy a good south bend for the same money I was looking at anti-gun Ebay just before I posted and they had an exceptional 9x30 lathe listed with 19 hrs to go and the bid was $355

Hold on here a minute we shouldn’t put the cart before the horse, we need to regulate and register pans before we ban them. All in favor of a NICS for pans please raise your hands. We have to prove were democratic before we ban them pans.

I purchased a Hornady Lock n load press and the only good thing was the 1000 free bullets. My Hornady was out of time day one and was missing parts. The powder drop was the case activated version and was rough and I had to polish it before it would work. I have gave up on using the primer feeder the damn thing keeps sticking I have polished it with scotch bright pads and can’t keep it working. I was loading once fired 308 brass and if the primer pocket was swelled the primer would come out and spill a small amount of powder. Plus the Hornady dies ads claim you can decap the toughest brass, well I broke may die within the first few cases. Hornady told me their dies are not made to decap once fired military brass. That small amount of powder would cause cycling problems with the press. I called and talked to Hornady they claimed the press was designed to be a full progressive press. In the end I got some freebies and all of the parts I needed were taken care of but I still have a press that I can’t use as a progressive press. I want to load some pistol ammo and have yet to buy the pistol rotor for the powder drop. The rifle powder drop could never throw a consistent charge and I’m afraid that if I load pistol ammo the powder drop may throw a super hot load. All of this said I think I just got a lemon the new version of Hornady lock n load maybe better. Right now the 1000 free bullets are worth about $200 so that means you only got about $180 in the press.

I agree with Dr.Hess that your problem is the magazine. It almost sounds like you don’t have the right magazine. The bolt should strip a round from the magazine cleanly. If the magazines are correct then I would check the follower and the spring. If they check out then look at the feed lips. Are they bent down or are they being pushed down by the bolt?

Brian; if you don’t mind I’m going to ask a few questions and see if we can trouble-shoot your problem. You say the gun jams on the 3rd round and scratches the case pretty bad. 1) Is the chamber of your gun scratched now? 2) does the round jam before it’s fully or actually chambered? 3) Are you using the same magazine each time? 4) Are there scratches around the barrel where the cartridge enters the barrel I realize you are associating the feeding problem with the work done by the smith and you could be right. But… Remember you had a split case; the problem that caused the split case may still be causing a problem. I'm guessing that the smith polished your chamber to remove scratches caused by the removal of the stuck case. But… He could have been trying to remedy a scored chamber. I just don’t know with out a lot more info. My guess is that you have a weak magazine spring or slightly bent feeding lips on your magazine. Or a combination of 2 problems scoring or roughness around the barrel where the cartridge enters and possibly a magazine problem. Since the chamber has been polished once I would advise “NOT” doing that again without checking head space first. If it were my gun I would use some dummy rounds, cycle the gun by hand to see if it would jam on the 3rd round. ( expose a magazine problem) This would also allow for the opportunity to inspect cases for scratches caused by a rough feeding area.

724wd; makes an excellent point. The BATF changed the rules not to long ago and people and businesses that provide certain services for firearms must now have a manufacturing license and actually put a new serial number on the firearm in question. To my understanding heat treating is one of these services. If you’re there during the time the work is being done and actually participate in the process such as being the one that actually puts the receiver in the oven, then as 724wd says you should be ok. I do have one question maybe I just missed it but why do you want or feel the need to have your receiver heat treated?

Z1r beat me to it. Turn the spider to fit the inside of the spindle. I think you will find that the low back gear speed of the SB will help you thread barrels. Some people frown on old SB lathes but they are proven and dependable. Parts can sometimes be a little pricy and sometimes hard to find but the 13” lathe is common and parts should be available be for a long time.

BREAKING NEWS! Obama is already implementing the Inter Arms treaty ITAR through rules changes made by the Bush administration. Gun parts supplier Brownells as already sent out a letter to their vendors asking if they are in compliance with the new rules. "International Trade in Arms Regulation" treaty, or ITAR. Administered by the State Department through something called the Directorate of Defense Trade Controls (DDTC), this treaty is supposed to keep track of "defense" exports. Unfortunately, what you don't know is about to hurt you. The new rules will force sellers to be listed as manufacturers. Subsection I(a) of the ITAR includes all firearms, barrels, "military" scopes, and all "components, parts, accessories and attachments" for any listed item. Subsection III includes manufacturers of ammunition, bullets, and technical data for the production of the above. If you cast bullets at home and sell them to your neighbors, you need to file with the DDTC. ITAR calls for government registration of all arms manufacturing. Should the government decide NOT to issue a registration permit to any of those people, they're out of business, immediately. Basic registration has climbed from a few hundred dollars for a multi-year registration four years ago to $2,250 per year. Fail to pay this, and you risk federal prosecution. Businesses that export, the fees will be even higher. http://www.progunleaders.org/DDTC You must go to the link to get all of the information needed if were going to stop the new rules.

I own a wire flux only mig and can't weld worth a darn with it. It splatters something awful and doesn’t have very good penetration. I've never used a gas type mig but I’m told the difference is like day and night.

Since there is an interest in building an oven using milk house heater internals and parts I decided to find the best deal I could on the model I used to build my oven. How’s $21.99 plus S&H sound? http://www2.northerntool.com/heaters-stove...item-177966.htm I don’t have a working camera to show you pictures of how I built my oven but its really a simple design.

1st For your feeding test are you using a casing or a complete round. I found that using a casing doesn’t always work and sometimes hangs up midway. I made up a dummy test round for working out feeding problems. 2nd I’ve also found that a weak magazine spring can cause midway feeding problems, so can a rough follower. 3rd Before opening up the feeding rails polish them and remove any burs. The very nose of the feeding rails has a half-hour glass shape if the 2 dipple areas are rough they will cause binding. But what ever you do DON’T file them out because there needed for alignment. There’s a book by Raymond Benwood called “A guide to the drilling, reaming and broaching a bolt action receiver at home” available for free at JPFO.org http://www.jpfo.org/filegen-a-m/boltaction.htm In this book is a set of templates for making a gauge for the correct sizing of the feeding rails for a Mauser.

I built an oven for baking finishes several years ago following the Steve Wagner plans using the dimmer switch and it flopped. What happened was the dimmer switch could not control the 110 volt element that I was using. So I went a whole another direction What I did was to make a wooden box out of 1x8 pine about 8 inches wide and 42 inches long with a lid on hinges. (Think of a tool box shape) I then had a local Heating business bend me a box shape piece of metal without ends that would fit into my wooden box but give me about ¾-1 inch of clearance on each side. I also had them cut and bend pieces for the ends that I riveted to the larger piece to form an open top box, plus a piece for the lid. Next I took apart a working 1000 watt 110 volt milk house heater saving the porcelain stand offs, element and controls. I drilled holes about an inch above the bottom of the metal box filed them to shape and mounted the stand offs in a zig zag pattern that would accommodate the length of the element. I then attached the element and ran the wiring to the controls I had mounted on the outside of the wooden box in a standard electrical receptacle. I drilled holes and mounted the controls on a blank cover plate. The way I was able to mount the smaller metal box into the larger wooden box was by cutting strips of wood about 3/4 x 3/4 to act has supports at the top only. This hung the metal box inside the wooden box and gave me spacing for heat protection and in case i needed insulation. I did the same to the wooden lid so it would set down into the metal part of the box. Although I now had a working oven I found that I needed insulation. The same heating business carried the White High heat Bat type insulation rated to 1000 degrees. I cut and then placed a ¾ inch thick piece of insulation between the metal box and the wooden box. I also put a layer for the lid. It wasn’t that expensive to have the metal bent since I was riveting the ends myself and buying the metal from the same guy. The milk house heater parts worked almost perfectly the controls are far better than using a dimmer switch. I still have to be careful and keep the settings low because what I have is more like a Kiln but I can do barreled receivers and old shotguns now. Its possible to buy a good used heater and have very thing you need for less money than buying a good Dimmer switch. Even if you bought a new heater it would be cheaper than just one of wagners heating elements.