Sailormilan2

I'm getting ready to fire up the park tank and finish some rifles I've been working on. One of them is for my daughter. I've sporterized a Yugo action and I'm now trying to decide which of 2 barrels to use. Barrel #1 is a commercial Mauser Mk. X barrel, .243Win, 24", with sights. Barrel #2 is a Adams and Bennett barrel, .257 Roberts, 22" long, no sights. My dilemma is this. .257Roberts is a better deer round and can be used on elk. It fits the action better, But it's not as common, and usually under loaded. The .243Win will work on deer, but not so well on bigger stuff. It's much more common. She can handle either one. Realistically she'll probably never use it, but she might get a boy friend who's into hunting, and I want her to have something she can call her own.

That bolt stop appears to be from a 1909 Argentine. But, I believe that the 1909 Peruvian(Identical to the 1903 Turk), and the Turks use the same style.. Thread size should be 4mm-.75, at least, that is what I have used before. However, there was a possibility that they are 4mm-.7. There was a discussion about here here sometime back, with some insisting they are SAE(English) threads and some saying they are metric. http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1655http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1655

Ralph, GunBroker has a Yugo 24/47 barreled receiver that needs a bolt. It appears to have been drilled and tapped, with mounts and rings installed. It's barreled with a .243 Win barrel. Does that sound like something you can use? http://www.gunbroker.com/item/620278320

Tibor, if you are looking at a lightweight Mauser build, keep on eye on eBay. Somebody has been selling aluminum trigger housings made by Parker Hale. Very similar, if not identical to those sold by Uncle Mikes years ago. They will cut a good half pound of the weight of the rifle. You might want to look at the laminated stocks by Boyds and Richards Microfit. You can get finished stock from Boyds, Richards needs work. Laminates are a bit heavier, but they are stronger, and there are things that can be done to lighten them.

It should be a 1917.

This one is a Danzig 1917.

Well, it's got a couple of deeply struck proof marks. I've been considering getting them TIG'd then surface grinding them smooth. I've given thought to having it reheat treated, but I'm leery of the thinner ring warping in the process.

Small ring, large ring threads. I think it would be referred to as a 98AZ. I have a .243 Win barrel sitting around, and I've located a source for NIW Parker Hale aluminum trigger guards. So, I can make a really lightweight hunting rifle.

Any opinions as to whether or not a small ring 98 action will be able to handle the .243 Win round?

I've been working on a .257 Roberts build, using a Yugo action, for my daughter. I was considering a custom hinged trigger housing, but was putting it off, due to the cost. I've had the barrel mounted on the action, but not headspaced, for a while. A couple of weeks ago, I stumbled across one of the old Parker Hale aluminum trigger housings on Ebay. New, in the wrap, never been mounted or put together. A little pricier than I liked, but it cuts 1/2# off the weight of the rifle. I've now gotten two of them. I will be removing the barrel from the Yugo receiver, and mounting it on a spare standard 98 action I have. The barrel is a cut down F34 A&B barrel, that has been cut to 22" I plan on throating it, to make a 3" .257 Roberts. I've got one of the old Fajen light weight stocks, that is a simple stock, no cheek piece, that has 4 7/8" holes drilled in the butt, and two sections in the forearm that have been routed out, to lighten the weight. I need to find a commercial bolt, but that can wait till after Christmas. It will look something like this. This is the original idea, using a .243Win barrel on a standard receiver. But, that changed when I found the .257 Roberts barrel. I'm just going to finish it using black park.

The price will depend a lot on who made it. Adams and Bennett(Midway), are usually at the bottom of the price list, though that does not mean they aren't good barrels. ER Shaw are next up the list, then Shilen. A&B barrels used to go for about $80, with Shaw barrels being about double that, and Shilen being about triple the cost of a A&B barrel. Also, A&B had different contours. They had a lightweight barrel, only 21" long, and their standard 24" barrel, which was a little heavier than most standard barrels. You might also run into converted Remington 700 barrels, which are about the only commercial barrel that can be rethreaded properly to fit a small ring action. The barrels are all shaped differently, so it makes it somewhat easy to figure out who made them. If you don't find what you are looking for, you might check out ER Shaw. They want about $180 for a barrel, chambered and threaded for your action. I've got large ring Mauser 98 barrel in .257 that I found on eBay. I don't know how it shoots yet, as I am still working on it. .257 Roberts barrels don't last long anywhere.

They're not happy with him, because he made them look stupid. Something that really isn't hard to do.

I am still learning the 1911 platform, and being retired, I like to tinker. I recently found that I had not properly fitted my 9mm barrel to its slide. So, after doing a bit of filing, I went to the range. At the same time, I took a little Detonics style 45acp that I set up to use a Commander slide in 10mm. Here are the range results. Both targets are shot at 15 yds. I know I loaded 9 rounds into the mag for the 9mm, but I can only find 8 holes. The 10mm, with its short mag, only holds 7. It's quite a handfull with full house loads. I still need to work the trigger pull down. I've worked on it, and now it is only about 5 1/2#,but that is down from what it used to be. Off the scale, but estimated at 10 -12#. Here's the little gun, with the 45acp on top, and the Commander slide with 10mm barrel beneath.

David Stockman was saying that sometime after the first of the year, he expects a major drop in stock market. In my opinion, with Trump as President it will be seen has his fault. If Hillary had been elected, it would have been Obama's, or Bush's, fault.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the .318" bore issue. The military stopped making those prior to WW1. Though because they couldn't make rifles fast enough during WW1 many .318" bore rifles were issued with the then standard larger diameter 8mm bullet. They got around this by cutting some free bore in the barrel so that the bullet picked up speed before being swaged down, so pressures were not raised too much. However, post war, many gunsmiths used the .318" bore as they felt it was a more accurate barrel.

When I started tinkering with Mausers way back when, in the 70s, I got two in the white Mauser hinged TGs(probably SB made) from what was then called Sherwoods in Northridge(now called Northridge International) for $10 ea. I wish I had bought a dozen of them. But, seriously, these are a much better deal than the new commercially made ones that are floating around and going for #100 ea. Even if they do require some minor fiddling. I think I may have to get one more.

I promised a review of the hinged Santa Barbara made trigger guards that Numrich has. So, here it is. These are the typical SB/MK X style, with the latch in the bow. The latch is nicely fitted. They are castings, and the mold line can be seen inside, where it doesn't matter. But it is there. The hinge pin/floor plate fit is good, with no wobble. They are made for a 98 style stock, with extra metal in front of the front screw. Which is no big deal. Unfortunately, the pics did not turn out as well as I wanted. But, there is a dot inside each of the diamond shapes on the floor plate, trigger bow, and the front tang. You can see some of them in one of the pics. One of the floor plates has an issue, and won't close. I think the floor plate tang/hinge point is a shade too long and contacting the hinge cutout. I will work on that tomorrow. Now, comparing these to the commercially made trigger guards that are out there now for about $100. Those are easy to spot as they have a hump at the rear of the mag box. The two I got have a very loose hinge pin/floor plate, so the floor plate wobbles when open. The bow/latch is not shaped well, as they appear to have just been put together with no thought of blending together. The color is a very matt black finish. Much duller than these. While I don't really care for the so called engraving, but at $60 each I can live with it. In my opinion they are made much better than the the new commercially made ones that are out there that cost more money. I did get one of the finished floor plates, just to see what they are like. It will need some work. It's kind of lumpy. Meaning some draw filing, or sanding may be in order. However, it may be just right for anyone who needs a floor plate to finish a trigger guard. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://

I think the grouping will improve a bit with a better trigger(this one is typical AR, horrible), and more rounds down the barrel. That group measures about 1.3", which isn't bad for a semi auto. So far, I've only got about 30 rds down the barrel. I don't think Monster Man makes grip for anything but the AR and the AK.

That's a Monster Man. It is considered a non pistol grip, and therefore can be put on a rifle to replace the pistol grip. The thumb can't wrap around it. You kind of hold the rifle as you would a standard stocked rifle. How they used to teach people to hold the 1903 Springfield. With the thumb held to the side. I had already installed a ambi safety, which works perfectly as the thumb is right there to work it.

18" barrel. I really don't care for the barrels shorter than 18" in a .308W.

My oldest son was allowed to "graduate" last March with his University class, even though he lacked one class. Which he completed in June-July. Geology field camp(read that as "boot camp"). Tough, hands on, meaning litteraly hands on, since everything had to be done by hand, no electronic devices. They spent 4 weeks in the desert and mountains, volcanic and earthquake areas, surveying and then making maps of the area. It was tough, but he had a blast. Scroll forward to this week. He goes to get his "diploma" since he needs it for a job application for a job in Utah. He couldn't get it, since the school has to go through his transcripts to see if he has enough credits to graduate, after he already graduated, because the school has just switched over from the Quarter System to Semesters. He got his class done in July, and they still aren't done with the records. I am sooo glad I don't have to deal with that school any more. They have a reputation as being one of the worst Universities in CA. Hopefully, he can get the job in Utah. It will be as a "Hydrologist". Starting wage is almost as good as my wage was as a Deputy when I retired 11 years ago.

Reportedly it's a moose.

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