Sailormilan2

Bob, I decided to redo the Mauser stock. I didn't like the pale, washed out look the TruOil gave. I stripped the stock, then sanded with 150 grit, then 220. I have now brushed on 2 coats of Teak Oil, and sanded the wet 2nd coat with 220 grit. I am now waiting for the 2nd coat to dry a bit more. I will then wet sand with 320, 400, and then 600. This is a new method for me, as I usually go as fine as I can before I bruch on the finish. Here is how the stock sits now with 2 coats of Teak OIl.

Just a stray piece of metal that was lying on the boards, I never even noticed it, till you said something.

I've been looking for a birch stock for a while, and finally found one that appeared to have some figure on eBay. When I got it, I ran it through the dishwasher to remove all the military finish. DW works well, but can crack thin woods, but it does wonders in steaming out dents. It turns out the stock had few dents, having never been issued or on a rifle. Sanded the stock to 400, then used 4 coats of Teak Oil to finish it. Here are before, part way through, and finished pics.

Thanks you guys. Survived another one. I've had better. Got a bug. Trying to decide if it is just a flu bug or if I have West Nile. Symptoms fit West Nile. Total, complete disorientation for the first couple of days. Ever tried hitting a spinning toilet? I think I am on the down side. Fortunately there was a James Bond marathon on the tube, so I was entertained yesterday. But I am sure there are worse ways of spending on'e birthday, even a 65th.

I recently read a thread on another forum from someone who had moved to Texas. The "supposed" dream destination of all things Californian. This person was complaining becaue in Texas there is not open Gov't land to shoot on. Everything is private, so one has to know the owners or go to a range. Which he said was pricey to not easily accessed. The writer was saying that shooting, with all its restrictions, here in CA was much better, as there was LOTS of open, Gov't land that one could shoot on, and how much they missed that. That is one reason I am ambivilant about moving. I'm afraid I will move somewhere where overall things will actually be worse than here in CA.

You know of course, that you'll lose your "Man Card" if you drive it.

On the top stock, I just used Tung oil. On this stock, I used a diluted stain, Chesnut Ridge Military Stain, that I wiped on, then finished with Satin Polyurethane sprayed on. This stock is done with TruOil. I think I am going to strip it, and redo it in Tung Oil, but that is a bit more involved than doing it in TruOil.

The 220 Swift case is based on the 6mm Lee case. I think you will have an easier time finding brass for the 220 Swift than finding 6mm Lee brass to convert it.

Ackley loved the 220 Swift, and championed it as a hunting round for animals up to, and including, deer. However he used custom bullets that were essentially solid copper, bored out with a small lead core. Probably the equivalent of a Nosler partition bullet. Though, solid copper ones made now days might work also. He mentions using a 220 Swift to hunt desert mules/burros. Including one test where they put an Army helmet on a burros head and shot it. Bullet penetrated, helmet and head, and exited through the helmet on the far side. But, that was done at fairly close range. He felt it was more effective than the -06s and 8mms that were also being used. The rim diameter is .473, however, the base of the case, where the web is, is around .443. So the case is longer and narrower than the 22/250, which is made from 250 Savage brass. Whether running 22/250 or 250 Savage brass will grow enough when run through a 220 die is unknown. I wish you had posted this last year, I basically gave away about 200 rds of once fired and new 220 Swift brass.

Seems to need an awful lot of work, since the 220 Swift is semi rimmed. That means you have to, or should be, squeezing the base down smaller than the diameter of the rim.

Rod, if you read this, send me a message. I tried to send you a message and as Doble Trouble said, it wouldn't go through. does anyone know if we have a .458WM reamer available in case I get the barrel I'm looking at.

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2013/dec/18/barbara-walters-admits-we-thought-obama-was-next-m/ Barbara Walters admist "We thought Obama was the next Messiah".

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Oh, I reload alright. This year has been a bit of a mess, and I havn't been able to get any lead free bullets order, if I could even find some. I've managed to locate some at MidSouth, so I may order some. But finiding powders has been a problem, though I have my normal 30-06 powdr(IMR4064), and a can of W760. Plus, I really don't like shooting when it is 90+ here, and that is how it has been most of the summer. I may have to order some bullets just for his 30-30, as none of the stores here have any lead free. I'm looking at the Barnes 130 gr Tipped for better ballistics. The lead free ammo is around $45 a box of 20 here, so getting a box of 50 Barnes bullets for $30 + S&H is the was to go.

Yesterday my youngest son and I went out to sight our rifles in for deer season. He has a single shot Contender based rifle in 30-30 that he had just mounted an older Bushnell 4x with BDC on and a Remington 700(left hand) in 30-06 that someone had bedded in a fiberglass stock on and bedded it with a Simmons Whitetail Classic 4-12 freshly mounted on it. My rifle is a Mk X in 30-06 with a Butler Creek stock it has been bedded in, with a Simmons WTC 4-12 mounted on it. Since we live in one of the "Condor Counties" here in CA, we have to use lead free ammo. So, we were shooting factory Remington 150 gr solid copper with Ballistic tip. Since we couldn't find any lead free 30-30 ammo, all we were doing was getting the Contender's scope on paper. But the Remington 700 sure liked that lead free ammo. He had two two shot groups that were in the same hole. But getting there used up almost all our ammo. We got the ammo from WalMart last year, and this year none of the local stores have any. So, I am going to take a motorcycle ride in a couple of days and visit some of the outlying stores that are supposed to have it. Since we used up all the ammo on his gun, my Mk X did not get used. But, it shouldn't be off from sighting in from last year. However, I have decided that the Butler Creek stock has too much flex in the forearm, so I am going to restock it. I hope to be done in a week, and that gives me 3 weeks to get it sighted in and tweaked. My oldest son has a Parker Hale style Mauser, also in 30-06, and also in a BC stock. I have a spare stock that I have been saving for a nice custom rifle in a big bore caliber. It is a nicely figured dark English walnut stock, and is definately heavier than the Maple one I plan on putting on my rifle. So, I am iffy as to whether or not to put it on the rifle. I may yet build a big bore rifle.

At the last gunshow here in my town, 2 weeks ago, on the Left Coast there were plenty of primers(Win), ammo, and some rifle powder(mostly IMR4064). Virtually no pistol powder, at least when I got there on Sunday. Right now, pistol powders are what I need.

I remember a certain incident years ago when I was married. It was "that time of the month", and I was outside digging up an oleander bush stump, and hearing yelling coming from inside the house. And all I could think about was that I was glad she was screaming at the kids and not at me.

Quite frankly, it isn't going to matter what any one does. All certain people will see is that a white officer shot an unarmed black man. I am getting very tired of a certain group(race) that claims racism for everything that happens to them.

I have read that adding a bit of Nu Finish car polish works wonders with the walnut media also. I haven't tried it out yet though.

After getting it up and running, I did some more tinkering with the "Detonics" build. Just trying to get it "right". Function and accuracy are good. I cut down a Wilson drop in Beavertail grip safety I had fubar'd, and inserted that in place of the standard grip "spacer". I had already ground down the frame to get rid of casting marks and contour the frame to the original spacer(which needed it badly), but the work helped it fit well with the BTGS. The original spacer had such sharp edges it cut my hand during shooting, almost like "hammer bite". Once done with that, I reparked the frame, slide lock, thumb safety, grip screws, and spacer. I used a Black park solution I got off eBay, it matched the slide well. I've test fired it at about 7 yds, and using Mil Spec hardball reloads it does well. Trigger is a little heavy, but clean, which works for a close range Self Defense gun. It is still up on the air as to whether or not I keep the BTGS. If I carry it with the hammer down, the wider, deeper design of the safety interferes a bit with my thumb as I cock it. However, I think that since it allows a bit higher grip hold, that will cut down recoil a bit(which is important in a smaller gun like this), as well as spread the recoil out over my hand more, I will keep it. 7 rounds mil spec hardball reloads at 10 yds.

I've been considering rechambering my 376 Steyr to a 375 Ruger. But your "substantial" gives me pause.

I got a new batch of ammo the other day and decided to test a couple of guns. I had recently installed a SEI muzzle brake to my sons gun, so it needed to be sighted in. Ammo tested. Nosler Custom Competiton 168gr HPBT, Fed Gold Medal Match 168gr HPBT, and the new Nosler made Silver State Armory 175gr HPBT. Distance: 100 yds Guns tested. My Polytech, rebarreled with Krieger standard weight, 1x11" twist. USGI fiberglass stock, with adjustable cheek piece, and Bushnell 10x 3200 Elite Tactical, mounted in Ewings scope mount. My sons Polytech, with medium heavy, SAI barrel, SEI Coast Guard Muzzle brake, Archangel stock, Bushnell 10x 3200 Elite Tactical mounted in a Basset mount. My gun does not like Fed Gold Medal Match. Patterns were about 4" at 100 yds. But it really seems to like the new SSA ammo from Nosler. I wish I had gotten more than the 10 boxes I got. My gun also did better with the Nosler Custom Competition, than it did with the FGMM, though the NCC is not shown. My son's Polytech was the opposite. It really like the FGMM ammo, and only did so so with the NCC. I did not test the SSA ammo in his gun at this time. I may have to keep it.USNA

Az, I think part of the problem is that I was using the 38 Super length extractor. So, I have gone to using the 9mm extractor, which is about 3/16" longer. All three rounds feed fine, and as long as there isn't a bullet in the case, there appears to be room for proper ejection. Tension appears to be proper. I spent last night rethroating the barrels, and there is an improvement in feeding. I've been trimming the recoil springs, and that has helped the 38 super eject......................it bounce empties right into my face. I tested it again yesterday, and at 10 yds the 9mm put 3 rounds in about 1" almost right on target, so I think I fixed the crown. I will get going out again next week to try again. It's getting better.

I recently built up a "Detonics" style 45acp using an Essex made frame and a Colt officers model upper. Upper as it came, needed work. Plus a new recoil spring, and Clark plug. Finally got a chance to test it today. It had a few issues, mostly with lead SWC reloads. However, with my hardball reloads and JHP reloads, it worked just fine. Hardball reloads at 10 yds(6 shots). JHP reloads at 10 yds(5 shots) Link to original thread. I also took out my switch caliber gun, to test it since I had redone the springs( 38 Super to 14 lbs, and 9mm to 12 lbs). As well as testing my new crowning job. Someone had tried to recrown it and left chatter marks all around the muzzle. It had been shooting left. After the recrown, the first(and only shot was dead center). Unfortunately the Fusion made front sight disappeared on the first shot. Gun has about 50 rounds thrugh total. I had some issues with fitting it, so I may have screwed it up. The leg snapped, leaving a piece in the slide. But, to further test the spring, we (my son and I) did some more unaimed firing. I think the springs are still too strong(I'm using a 23lb mainspring), so I will cut another coil off each of the recoil springs. Also, the extractor kept coming off the rims of both the 9mm and the 38 Super cases. I don't know if that is a factor of the to heavy recoil spring or if the extractor needs retensioning. So, I will keep working on that. As well as a bit more feed ramp polishing. Bot cartridges feed hardball/JPH just fine. The 9mm fed the lead SWCs most of the time, but the 38 Super misfed every one. Unless, I pulled the slide all the way back and let it go, then it fed fine.

It is parked. It is just a very smooth park finish. These receives are very smooth. Much smoother, with almost not macahining marks as compared to a commercial Springfield M1A.