fmsniper

and ofcourse my trade mark, socks in picture

here are a few more projects i am working on

I am working on new projects and one that has been going for a while

308 Mauser 98, Receiver true, lugs lapped, glass bed, barrel floated, kreiger barrel, Boyds stock not finnished yet, scope is S2 Sightron

308 mauser 98, Receiver true, lugs lapped, glass bed, barrel floated, P&H 20 inch barrel i cut and recrowned, Boyds stock not finnished yet, scope is Nimrod

Savage 2506, Receiver true, lugs lapped, glass bed, barrel floated

m1 garand scout is done

rem 700 added LTR barrel and comp stock, Receiver true, lugs lapped, glass bed, barrel floated, scope is Burris

Savage 300WSM, Receiver true, lugs lapped, glass bed, barrel floated, scope is LUPY M4, Barrel is SS 27 inch

also this 270 from a turk I am making for my brother it is using a houge stock

Hey Sniper, I take it you are back stateside? If so, welcome home! Good to have you back cranking out sporters to inspire the lethargic ones like me. (not really lethargic, just too busy with life to devote the time I'd like to my hobby)

thanks yep IMMMMMMM Baccckkkk

getting settled

Here the story I picked up a M39 Fin rifle, barrel was corroded, and stock was broken so I decided to make a fin sniper/target rifle but only modern.

I contacted lother walther and had them make me a barrel 27 inch target 11 degree crown chambered in original 7.62x54 R, the barrel is long chambered, I thread the barrel to 16 tpi / 60 degree as original, the made the extractor cut and shell lip with a dermal, worked well.

I made a receiver mandrill out of bar stock on the lathe then trued the receiver witch was almost perfect in the first place; fins did a hell of a job.

Ordered a tiger wood tacdriver stock from Richards micro fit gun stocks. http://www.rifle-stocks.com/

Ordered Scope mount, Allen screws, side safety and pillars from ken at Rock Solid Ind http://rocksolidind.com/products.html.

Getting a hubber trigger from Tennessee Gun Parts http://www.tngunparts.com.

I mounted the Scope mount and glass bed it for further stabilization, it did not need it but I figured why not, it is a solid mount with the side locking screw, well made, I cannot say enough about this mount so far it is the best aftermarket mount I have seen oe tried for a M39/91 it Rocks, no pun intended .

I lapped the lugs by cutting and old barrel butting a spring in the chamber and half a shell casing to push against the bolt.

I mounted a Falcon Optics Merlin 10x42T Tactical Rifle Scope, I got from Mel at Sniper central for $280.00

http://www.snipercentral.com/falcon.htm

This scope to me is on par with the Super sniper I like the turret adjustments and retical better and it comes with side focus for less the super sniper.

So now I am waiting for the stock from Richards It cost me $225.00 for the 1 inch pad and 1 inch barrel channel

mount is great I glass bed it , it is solid as advertised

scope from sniper central Merlin Falcon

the stock is tacdriver tigerwood from richards micro fit, will be here in a week or so, also got some other parts coming from Rock Soild Ind: bolt handle, side safety and pillers as well as alan bolts

Stock is simular to this but tiger wood

I always use both shoulders, always

anyone have a good number or email for Blanchards or Industrial Heat Treating

I am back in the USA in 3 weeks need to start building again

I'm in Georgia.

 

I do not have immediate access to a welder, and I have never welded. As far a caliber is concerned, I would love it in 308, but I'm not sure the K Kale can handle it. If not, I'm thinking 7mm mauser or 6.5X55. As far as the stock, I have an ATI that I'm doing a FMSniper kinda thing with. I have a 2.5-10X50mm scope, luepold base and rings. I am familiar with Steve wagners site, and have done the bolt mod to this mauser using the grade 8 bolt, and a plastic knob of my own manufacture. I guess I need to find an action wrench, a set of go/nogo gauges, and a chamber reamer for tools and a barrel, preferably a target/bull barrel.

do yourself a favor and get a M98, VZ24 or M48, then your apotions are more broad, 6.5x55 or 308 will be fine.

if you are going to stick with the turk you can get a New 6.5x55 Sweade barrel from sarco and mount it on the turk

here is one I did a time ago on a turk, if I remember it was a 29 inch barrel

It may be less expensive to just buy a whote new gun.

Lather walther made me a brand new target barrel for my fin 39, heavy profile

You're ready to go.

 

Here's some advice: Decide what you want to do. Clearly define your objectives. As this is your first one, if you're like me, you will have a lot to learn. Even with the help that you will get on this board, which will be excellent, you're likely to make rookie errors - take them in stride.

 

If you clearly define what you want your rifle to become, you'll have a better chance of getting close. You aren't likely to hit the mark the first time, but will be prepared with experience for your second try.

Good advice

I like the metal to wood blend

I also have IOR and they have enogh travel for 1K, with out the MOA rail, but I would suggest getting a 10 MOA or standard, sell the 20 MOA, I only use 20 MOA on my 50 BMG and 338 Lapua for shootng past 1500 meters

Why would you put a 20 MOA base on and expect to zero at 100?

like Zr1 said 10 MOA base should have been enough (if your scope needed the extra MOA at all)

I normally do not use MOA bases with a 308, since 1000 yards is about max performance for that round and honestly 800 is optimal, get a good scope with enought MOA .......

FM, thanks for the fast reply, I don't think that I will go that route. I will try to found an aftermarket trigger for this rifle that fit like the military one. I think that I saw then at Midway or Brownells. Have you used them?

 

Thanks again.

Spec.4

thats good too just make sure its adjusatble a re hard trigger can make for loose groups

but know I have not used them, you mean ones like hubber products????

Thanks FM, I was woundering how you did yours. I had fun with mine. I use the old receiver spacer as pillards on the stock and bedd the rifle to the stock. Then I fill in the webbing with cottonballs and used 5 plastic weld and dye to match the stock look good. Then I used the truck bed liner stuff on the outside the stock. I am having some other work done by Low Tech. But when I get it back I was post pic.

 

As for your e-mail to me. You said that you grind out the bow for the trigger, right?

 

spec.4

Yes I notch it and grind out the area for the safety (if using side safety) and if the tigger hits the trigger guard I grind it down to fit

Sweet!

 

Which would you prefer if you were only to buy one? AR-15 or AR-180?

 

I'd like to buy a semi-auto after the first of the year and I'm waffling between either an AR or a FAL. Which do you like best?

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

well accesories and accuracy, AR15....

if only one that would be it

on the other hand if you need one for hunting large game FAL in 308

now if you want my best opinion, if I could have one gun at all and only one it would be a DPMS panther in 308, I love mine and is one of my favorite rifles in the world, accuracy is sub MOA

save your money and you can get one from 800-1000 dollars I bought mine used for $850

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not only is it 308 for hunting but it out shoots 90% of my bolt guns

here are my 2 03 's

rechambered to 270

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3006

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there was a question on ATI stock mods, I was un able to answer but here is what I got

remove and fill with bedding

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sand then paint

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glass bed

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cut out for bold trigger

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AR 180 is a fine rifle, but not as accurate as AR15, though I think more reliable I have one.

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heres one I did on a 1903A3

Remington uses a black oxide finish process don't they?

 

Jason

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I normally sand blast, with great results

Guys I thought I would pass on to this forum since it is the first I ever joined and made friends with most here,

Sarco has 26 inch PH barrels back in, about 100 of Grade A and some more Grade B

Grade A $64.00, I just bought 2 and looking for money to get more...

SHHH do not let every one know or they will go fast

Machining a press fit rim or one soft soldered is the way to go.  Real silver solder is hot enough to draw the steel.

 

In school we welded off center firing pin holes and pitted bolt faces all the time, however, we also sent  them out for heat treating (carbon augmentation) afterward.

 

Isn't the boltface on the M95 a seperate piece?  If so, weld it up and get it heat treated.

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ZR1 know of any good heat reat companies

the bores are a little tight, I put one of my reamers in a lathe and used sand paper to bring it down some.

 

you will have re thread the barrel do to deepening of the chamber to fit the 30 30 shell. the PH barrels shoot 144 grn bullets very well that is what they were made for.

 

if you look at the 308 and 3030 there will need to be some cutting down on the barrel to get the 3030 to reach the lands and the sholder to fit correstly, getting rid of the 308 shoulder, but other than that you should  be fine.

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the bores are a little tight, I put one of my reamers in a lathe and used sand paper to bring it down some.

you will have re thread the barrel do to deepening of the chamber to fit the 30 30 shell. the PH barrels shoot 144 grn bullets very well that is what they were made for.

if you look at the 308 and 3030 there will need to be some cutting down on the barrel to get the 3030 to reach the lands and the sholder to fit correstly, getting rid of the 308 shoulder, but other than that you should be fine.

I built around 9 of them all with great success

good to have you back!  and off to a nice start again, i see!

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Thanks, but I am back over seas so now I can onlywatch you guys until I get back to the USA.