Vladymere

Tony,

Congratulatons and well done!

Vlad

Has anyone here used one of the Tubb Speedlock Firing Pins?

The photos of them I've seen don't appear to have the safety shoulders like a standard mauser firing pin. I'm wondering if that is the case.

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=366309

From the photo it appears that the shoulders or flats are missing. The original Mauser sporting rifles did not have these flats either. Ths flats keep the rifle from firing out of battery if the firing pin should break. Firing pin breaking is not a likely prospect with an oringinal firing pin but possible. If an original where to break it would probably be at one of the fillits in a cocking piece engaging groove at the end of the pin. With this design I wonder if the aluminum portion could seperate from the steel portion?

Vlad

And that is why a model 98 action has two bolt lugs and a third safety lug.

I am glad that all will recover.

Vlad

She sounds like my daughter.

Vlad

How is the bullet selection and availability between the 9MM and the 9.3 MM?

You say that the 9.3 is a more fitting choice but remember the 9x63 (very similar to .35 Whelen, close enough to be almost indistinguishable) is an old European cartridge, that pre dates the .35 Whelen and would also be fitting in a Mauser.

Vlad

German military rifles never used a .318" bore. This is a common misconception/myth. The Gew.88 rifle that your are refering to used a .318" diameter bullet in .320" bores. The theory was, and it may have been true with the thinly jacketed bullets of the time, that the bullet would "slug" up and fill the bore on firing.

Vlad

Bucksnort,

To cut threads on the outside of your barrel you will need a die. Taps cut internal threads (nuts), dies cut external threads (screws).

Vlad

Here is a thread on two piece stocks on classic German sporting rifles that may be of interest to you. http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/27894

Vlad

Thank you Mike. That is what I wanted to know and better than the way I had thought of doing it.

Vlad

Mike,

I am also curious about your method. Did you cut the octogon first and then turn the front end? How about timing your thread so that a flat came up top dead center?

Vlad

The freischutz looks like a club next to the Oberndorf style and I won't say what the schnabel on the freischutz stock reminds me of. The Oberndorf stock is much more comparable to the German Suhl style stocks of the early 20th century.

The dst, shotgun style trigger guard and octagon barrel will look proper Dirtyjim. Are you going to putexpress sights and a metal buttplate on as well?

Vlad

I ordered a 1/4x22 from Brownells. The don't say if its 55 whitworth or 60 American standard.

The tap from Brownells will be just fine Ken. Just be carefull not to drop it or you will be in the same boat I am, in need of another tap.

Vlad

Rivitir,

I also echo Clemson's and Spiris' suggestions to start with a Mauser. I would suggest though looking for one that has a cracked stock or worn bore but an intact and sound large ring action. You won't need the stock and, most likely, the barrel. By looking for a "parts gun" rather than a fully functional Mauser you will be saving a piece of history. There are plenty of actions and damaged rifles out there that can be rehabilitated. You might also find a previoulsy sporterized rifle that was not done well that would be a source of doner parts. Many times these "parts guns" and previously sporterized rifles can be had for less than a functional military Mauser. Some of these previously sporterized rifles where done so in an earlier age and may be sporting a nice Lyman or Redfield peep sight and a ramp front sight that can be reused.

Vlad

That is good information Jason.

I have a PDF file copy of a two part article written by Alvin Linden for the NRA in December 1927 on Sporterizing the Mosin-Nagant. It was basicly modifying the existing stock or making a new stock, bending the bolt and adding a peep site.

Al Linden is a noted stock maker.

I would be happy to forward this article to anyone that requests it. Send me an e-mail at my address below.

Vlad

Highscore1031284@aol.com

Be carfull with your tap though, they are pricey. I dropped mine on the concrete floor of my garage and the shank broke off the tap. I've been meaning to order another one. Midway doesn't carry them and I have not seen them listed at McMaster-Carr, Enco, MSC or Wholesale Tool.

Vlad

K98k stands for karibiener 98 kurtz or carbene 98 short.

Vlad

Fixing to show my stupity! Is a K98K a long or short bolt?

Swamprat

Mauser receivers, excepting anti-tank rifles, come in four flavors, magnum, standard, intermediate and kurz or short. All miliatary receivers, again excepting anti-tank rifles, where in standard or intermediate length. K98ks are standard length receivers.

Vlad

From the stock I would say a K98k.

Vlad

Solder it just like the copper pipes you do. Tin both pieces, apply flux, assemble parts, heat until solder will wick into the seam of the assembled parts.

That is the traditional method for applying sights annd such to Mausers and how I attached the rear mount, front "saddle" mount and express sight to the sporterized Kar.98a rifle below.

Vlad

Five shot group off the bench at 100 yards with the rifle above.

There are two definitions of set back, I think, and believe you are mixing both in your question.

You are asking if a barrel can be set back one thread to keep sights aligned in order to repair set back in a receiver.

Yes, a barrel can be set back a full thread in order to keep iron sights properly aligned. In this instace the chamber is also recut to assure proper head space as setting back the barrel one thread results in a short chamber.

Set back in a receiver is when the bolt locking lugs batter grooves into the receiver. If the grooves are very shallow you might be able to lap them out with out cutting through the surface hardening and into the softer receiver core.

The usual fix for receiver set back is to replace the receiver.

Vlad

I have yet to send a registered letter to Classic Barrel Works or be able to communicate with Danny Pedersen via phone or e-mail about the barreled action I sent him in January of 2007 to work on but today I received a UPS package. The same box I sent to Danny 26 months ago.

Inside the package was the barreled action of my Gew.88 sporting rifle with the work completed. Bored out and rechambered to .35 Whelen.

The work looks good but I will need to slug the bore and check chamber dimensions.

I haven't received the bill yet.

I attribute the return of my goods to a forum member on the 24 Hour Campsite, where I also posted, haveing actualy contacting Danny about his project and also asking him about mine.

It will be a little while before I get back to this project as I recently had foot surgery and am hobbeling around on crutches and will be for another month (had broken bones that needed repair). Getting from my recliner to the bathroom and bed is about all I am able to do.

Vlad

25 months ago I sent a Gew.88 based sporting rifle barreld action to Classic Barrel Works in Prescott, Arizona to be rebored.

On the rare instances that his mailbox is clear enough to leave a voice mail he fails to respond. E-mail contact through his web site is undelivered.

I suspect that I may never see this rifle again.

I recomend that Danny Pendersen and Classic Barrel Works be avoided if you are considering barrel work by them.

Eric Easterling aka Vlad

I think you will find that if you go with a generic screw hole reamer that it leave a hole oversized to the screw heads. Get a tool made for Mausers from Brownell or Midway.

Vlad

Clemson,

Your recomendation of SB lathes is partialy what persuaded me to buy this one.

Vlad

C is Guatamalian. Quite scarce, usualy rode hard, it is one of 5000 (or maybe 3000, I forget which).

Vlad